A Toyota Tacoma’s front brake pads will eventually lose their effectiveness. The front brake pads may be installed yourself with the right tools and perseverance, saving you money from having to pay your local service center for labor. It is advised to use a Toyota OEM brake pad or a set of high-end aftermarket brake pads because you get what you pay for. Due to the quad piston configuration of the Tacoma’s calipers, a cheap set of pads will quickly wear out.
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Step 4
Repeat the same for the other side after lifting one side of the truck with the floor jack and setting a jack stand below the lower control arm. With the steering wheel unlocked, this will raise the front axle so you can adjust its position for the right angles and working space as needed.
Step 7
Remove the locking wire or pin located on the caliper’s exterior. This pin just pops out, however you might need to convince it with some pliers or a set of channel locks. If the replacement pads didn’t arrive with new hardware, try to avoid damaging it.
Step 8
The flat surface of the pad upper holding pin should be tapped with a small to medium punch and hammer. Next to squeezing in the four pistons of the caliper, this may be the most difficult part of the job. It may take some time to complete this task, and since your replacement pads likely did not include a fresh set of pins, it’s crucial to avoid chipping or mushrooming the pin’s edge during tapping. The simplest method is to tap to make it move a tiny amount, then tap it back into place, tap it out slightly more, then touch it back into place. It will remove a small amount of corrosion and rust each time it travels. If these pins remain stationary, you might try using channel locks to grab onto them outside of the caliper and turn them. Repeat the same with the bottom holding pin if they come out. If you plan to reuse these pins, it is advised that you carefully clean them with a bench grinder’s wire brush wheel.
Step 9
Using a 14-millimeter 3/8-inch drive socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet, remove caliber bolts. Pry off the top and then the bottom of the caliper using a medium-angle pry bar. Keep it from dangling from the brake hose. The pads will either fall out on their own or may need to be carefully knocked out so that the caliper may sit on top of the upper control arm.
Step 10
Use an old pad as a platform to rest the drive of the C-clamp as you squeeze the caliper’s pistons in. The following task on the work will be the most difficult one. The four pistons in the Tacomastwo on each sidecause the other side to swell outward when you squeeze one side in. First fully indent one side, then the other. Although you might need to return to the other side a second time, perseverance will eventually pay off. An additional Tacoma drawback is a frozen piston on the caliper. If you discover that under pressure, the pistons will not squeak in, this may be a sign that the pads wore out prematurely, and you may need to replace the caliper. If they push in, no problem; carry on.
Step 11
The holding pins should be liberally coated with anti-seize or brake lubricant. The pads should be inserted into the caliper and secured using the holding pins. The inboard pad must be threaded into the caliper first, with the backing plate facing the interior of the wheel well. Next, install the outboard pad with the backing plate facing the interior of the wheel well, and thread the holding pin through that. You may thread the bottom holding pin in a little bit more easily because the higher holding pin will keep the pads in place. To put the caliper now loaded with pads over the rotor, spread the pads apart by hand. Not by force. If it doesn’t fit, the caliper’s pistons are not inserted all the way, and you’ll need to repeat the C-clamp method until it works.
Step 13
Reinsert a locking pin or wire into the holding pins’ holes. To handle the pins and line up the tiny holes for the clip wire, you might require pliers or channel locks.
Step 16
Lift the car high enough to remove the jack stands, then alternately use the 1/2-inch drive 21-millimeter socket and the adjustable torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts to 80 foot pounds.
Step 18
Check the master cylinder’s brake fluid level by opening the hood. It might need to be changed.
- Corrosion and rust buildup can transform this seemingly unproblematic chore into a logistical nightmare depending on your location. If the pins holding the pins are tightly jammed into the caliper, you might want to think about your suitability for the job. To put the caliper on a bench vise for extra space, you could unbolt the brake hose and remove the caliper, but you would then need to be able to fully bleed the braking system. You cannot install new brake pads if the caliper’s pistons are seized and unwilling to press in because they will not fit. It’s acceptable to give up, put everything back together, and bring it to a professional if you ever feel this procedure is more work than you’re prepared to put into it. Saving money is one thing, but completing a crucial task like replacing brake pads improperly can have dangerous consequences. Furthermore, even in the best-case scenario, it is advised that you utilize quality brake pad replacement and, while you’re at it, spend a little extra money to obtain a new holding pin replacement.
What is the price of replacing the brakes on a Toyota Tacoma?
Depending on the type of brake pads chosen and the degree of harm your previous worn-out pads have done to the various sections of your vehicle, such as the rotors, replacing the brake pads on a Toyota Tacoma can cost anywhere between $150 and $300 each axle.
Can I change my own brake pads?
- Depending on your vehicle and driving style, brake pads should be replaced every 25,000 to 75,000 miles. You’ll discover that most professionals and automakers advise changing your brake pads every 50,000 miles on average.
- As part of your standard inspection, ask your mechanic to check your brake pads on a regular basis. Always remember to examine your brake pads to see if they appear worn if you prefer to perform your own vehicle inspections. When you notice severe wear on your brake pads, replace them right once to keep your car safe.
- Squealing, squeaking, and grinding noises are indications of wear. It’s probably time for a replacement if your automobile pulls to one side more than the other when you press the brake pedal or if you experience bouncing when coming to a stop.
- Your car’s performance, dependability, and safety can all be enhanced by replacing the brake pads. You can tackle replacing your own brake pads as a DIY project if you’re confident performing your own vehicle maintenance. As with any auto modification or repair, check your owner’s manual for any special instructions or instructions before you start.
A Tacoma has what kind of brakes?
Drum brakes in the back have long been standard equipment on Toyota Tacomas. Disc brakes have many benefits over drum brakes, both in terms of performance and aesthetics. The TrakRyder rear disc brake conversion kit from Pedders provides aftermarket stopping power while maintaining the OE brake feel.
How much do brake repairs cost at Toyota?
What is the price of a brake job? Depending on the type of brake pad desired, brake pads for a Toyota might cost anywhere between $150 per axle and $450 per axle. For all four brake rotors to be replaced, the cost might range from $300 to $750. The labor and parts costs are included in this estimate.
Should brakes be bled before replacing pads?
Your braking system is the most important one in terms of essential parts. You must be able to stop at any time, no matter how quickly you’re moving. Hydraulic braking systems for vehicles operate by pushing pressurized fluid. There will be less pressure, spongy-feeling brakes, and lengthier stops if there is an air bubble in the system. But that’s only the start. The car might not stop at all if left unattended.
There is a technique to avoid this in addition to fixing it. Let’s examine when and how brakes should be bled.
When to Bleed Your Brakes
First off, you aren’t truly bleeding brakes; rather, you are removing air bubbles that may have developed prior to pouring fresh brake fluid by bleeding fluid and air out of the braking system.
When should you bleed your brakes?
- when the brakes begin to feel soft.
- when pauses take longer and you start to lose confidence.
- if you discover a leak Air may also be let in through leaks in addition to fluid. Bleeding your brakes after fixing the leak is the only way to ensure that your system isn’t affected by an air bubble.
- if you’re changing out worn-out brake pads, as this could lead to air getting into the master cylinder. More brake fluid is needed while braking with worn brake pads, which empties the reservoir and leaves room for air.
- if you replace your brake pads or rotors. For the purpose of safety, every brake job needs to include a brake bleed.
- As part of good preventive maintenance, once a year.
How to Bleed Your Brakes
You’ll need a screwdriver for Torx screws (detectable by the six-pointed groove on their heads), as much fresh brake fluid your car needs, and a container to catch the used fluid for all four methods of bleeding brakes.
Here are the four techniques for bleeding brakes:
- Put a container underneath the bleeder screw, turn the screw to let the old fluid fall into the container by gravity. Afterward, there will be cleanup. The liquid won’t fall in a straight line; instead, it will drip down components in the space between the container and the bleeder screw.
- By hand: Place a container beneath the bleeder screw and open it as someone gently presses and releases the brake pedal, forcing the fluid and air out of the system. Smoothly use the brakes to prevent the formation of further air bubbles that could linger and contaminate the fresh fluid. Make sure the fluid isn’t frothy, as that indicates that new air bubbles are beginning to form.
- Once more, place a container under the bleeder screw and open it to provide pressure. The fluid and air should then be forced through the system and into the container using a tank of pressurized braking fluid at the master cylinder.
- Vacuum: For this technique, when you open the bleeder screw, fasten a vacuum bleeder to it. It extracts the liquid and air into a connected container.
Regardless of the route you take, bleeding your brakes when there is a problem or as part of routine maintenance ensures that your braking system operates as effectively as possible and keeps you and your passengers safe.
NAPA Online has a comprehensive selection of brake fluid; or, visit one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare facilities for regular maintenance and repairs. Visit your neighborhood NAPA AUTO PARTS store to speak with a trained specialist for more details on bleeding your brakes.
Does it pay to install your own brakes?
Consider this: even a skilled automotive technician needs at least an hour to replace the braking rotors and pads on some cars. Brake pad repair could take several hours or longer for a person with little to no skill.
Learning the procedure, assembling the necessary supplies, carefully carrying out each step, and then putting everything back together again might easily take up a half-day of effort that may not be worthwhile in the end.
You might need to start over to fix the issue and correctly install the new brake pads if you complete the procedure only to discover that the brake pedal feels strange or that your brakes have begun to screech or grind. What a pain in the neck!
An easy approach that might ultimately save you time and money is to have a professional do your brake pad repair.
When changing brake pads, do you also need to replace the rotors?
You normally have three alternatives for brake replacement when it comes time to service your brakes: replacing simply the brake pads, replacing the brake pads and resurfacing the rotors, or replacing the brake pads and rotors jointly. Every choice has benefits. Your decision should be based on the amount of life left in your brake rotors, your budget, and how soon you want to be back at the shop.
Replacing brake pads only
When you come in for brake maintenance, if your rotors aren’t worn out or damaged, you can generally get away with replacing only the brake pads. Even though this is unquestionably the most cost-effective choice, at least in the near term, keep in mind that because these parts are made to wear out together, the new brake pads might not fit precisely with the older brake rotors. As the two components (pads and rotors) become accustomed to one another, the mismatch of the old and new may result in some noise and vibration. You also incur the risk of uneven wear on the brake pads when installing new brake pads on worn rotors, which could force you to replace the brake pads again sooner than you’d want.
Replacing brake pads and resurfacing rotors
Some shops will offer to resurface your rotors using a machine (referred to as a lathe) to get them down to a smooth surface for the new brake pads to wear against if there is enough thickness remaining in them when you go to have your brake pads replaced. This is frequently done to avoid having to pay to replace them, thereby saving money. Rotor resurfacing can cost anywhere from $75 to $120 at shops, which is around $100 less than a complete rotor replacement.
Although there are substantial initial savings, the process of milling rotors removes layers from their surface and could lead to warping because of their reduced capacity to disperse heat. Resurfaced rotors have been reported to warp just 10,00015,000 miles after machining, although new rotors can last up to 70,000 miles.
Though it isn’t usually the case, you could end up back in the shop for new brakes only a few short months after having your rotors resurfaced. To make matters worse, because of the uneven wear brought on by the brake pads rubbing against the warped rotors, you’ll likely need new brake pads when you repair the damaged rotors.
Replacing brake pads and rotors together
Both the pads and the rotors must be replaced for a comprehensive braking service. While initially more expensive, replacing the pads and rotors at the same time will make both last longer and ultimately improve brake performance. Because there is less chance of warping or uneven wear, both of which can lessen stopping power, replacing the entire brake set is also typically safer.
Fortunately, new varieties of rotors are reasonably priced, especially when you consider the expense of milling your old rotors only to replace them once more later on. This may help to explain why more and more maintenance facilities advise replacing brake rotors rather than refinishing them.