Do not reassemble anything else until you have replaced the Receiver/Drier since you need to check for leaks in the A/C system first. Change to removing the evaporator core for the air conditioner.
In This Article...
Removing the Air Box and Power Steering Pump
With a 5VZFE (v6) engine, there isn’t enough room to remove the Power Steering Pump before removing the A/C compressor. Getting to the bolts can be dirty and takes some time, but persevere; putting everything back together is much simpler.
- The three 12mm bolts holding it to the truck must be removed.
- Disconnect the large tube by loosening the 10mm hose clamp that connects to the air intake tube.
- Disconnect the little line and loosen the compression clamp holding the tiny vacuum tube to the box.
- Plug the MAF out.
- Pull the air box out and place it aside.
There is more space to work on the power steering ump with the air box removed. Remove the fluid lines (a), then the electrical connector (b), and lastly the fasteners holding the pump in place (c).
- Cut the power to the connector.
- To gather as much fluid as possible, place a catch container under the reservoir and release the spring clamp holding the tiny line in place.
- To keep things neat and stop more fluid from leaking out, cover the line with a bolt that is fastened with the spring clamp.
- The banjo bolt that holds the lower line to the power steering pump can be removed by first loosening it with a 17mm socket or wrench.
- Reminder: To keep the end of the line clean throughout the remainder of the operation, wrap it in a plastic bag.
- Note 2: As additional liquid will leak out, be sure you place some rags underneath the entrance. Make sure to keep both of the crush washers as well.
- At the bottom of the pump, a 14mm nut holds the tensioning bolt in place; remove the nut, but leave the tensioning bolt in place so the pump may move.
- From the pulley, remove the power steering belt.
- The top pivot point of the power steering pump is connected to the engine via a 14mm bolt, which should be removed.
- Power steering pump should be removed and laid away.
Spend some time at this stage cleaning up any spilt power steering fluid to prevent spreading it throughout the remainder of the procedure. Here, brake cleaner will help, or you can simply towel everything relatively dry and clean using shop rags.
Removing the A/C Compressor
The compressor is fairly simple to remove once the power steering pump has been moved out of the way. The A/C idler pulley, which is the lowest pulley at the front of the truck, should be taken off first.
- To remove the nut from the pulley’s center, use a 12mm socket.
- To slide the idler pulley far enough to release the tension bolt and remove the belt from the pulley, use a 12mm socket or wrench to loosen the tension bolt.
- Continue to the refrigerant lines after removing the belt from the air conditioner compressor and idler. The 10mm bolts holding the lines to the compressor must be loosened and removed. Remember to cover the ends of these lines in plastic bags once you remove them to prevent dirt from adhering to them throughout the remainder of the operation.
- The AC compressor’s power connector should be disconnected.
- Lift the air conditioning compressor off of the top of the engine compartment after removing the four 12mm bolts holding it to the engine. To hold the compressor form above while removing the two higher bolts, remove the bottom bolts first.
- Make that the new and old A/C compressors are identical by comparing them.
Preparing the New A/C Compressor
You will need to move the top plate from the old compressor to the new one if you bought the Denso A/C Compressor w/Clutch (recommended), since it will not come with the Tacoma-specific top plate. Additionally, the new compressor will be delivered full of PAG46 oil, which needs to be drained in order to inject the right quantity of PAG46 for the Tacoma system.
You must attach the Clutch to the new A/C compressor if you bought the Toyota OEM compressor and separate Clutch (or are using your old Clutch). To accomplish this, unscrew the 10mm center bolt, pull out the clutch using a puller, and then attach the clutch to the new compressor.
- The 4 bolts holding the top plate to the old compressor can be removed using a 6mm hex key.
- Along with any gaskets between the A/C compressor and temporary top plate, take the temporary top plate off the new compressor.
- Turn the new A/C compressor upside down over a drain pan and turn the clutch many times in both directions, until all of the oil drains out of the compressor. Not every drop of oil will likely come out, but enough so that shaking the compressor will no longer cause you to hear it sloshing about inside.
- 110cc of PAG46 oil should be measured using a syringe and added to the new compressor.
- Note 1: The FSM specifies that the compressor should use 125cc of PAG oil. I found that adding roughly 110cc to the compressor results in about 125cc in total. This is because you can’t get 100% of the oil out of the compressor when you empty it and overfilling the oil can result in bad cooling.
- Note 2: Although this appears excessive, it will fit without a problem. To ensure that oil is getting to every component of the compressor, occasionally turn the clutch.
- With the Santech MT2580 A/C System O-Ring and Gasket Kit, swap out the top plate gasket. Before installing it, oil it with PAG46.
- Attach the new A/C compressor to the old top plate. Securely tighten the four 6mm hex bolts, but do not overtighten; allow the gasket to function.
The new A/C compressor is now prepared to be put back into the Tacoma.
Installing the New A/C Compressor
- The four 12mm bolts that hold the A/C compressor to the engine must be installed. to 18 ft-lbs of torque. Note: To make future removal of these bolts simpler, apply some antiseize.
- The power connector must be reconnected.
- New o-rings that have been lubricated with PAG46 oil should be used to replace the o-rings on the refrigerant lines.
- Refrigerant lines are installed using two 10mm bolts. to 7 ft-lbs of torque.
- Start threading the 14mm nut that secures the A/C idler pulley back on after reinstalling it. Now is not the time to tighten.
- The proper pullies should be wrapped in the A/C belt. To tension the drive belt to 100 lbs., use a 14mm tensioner bolt.
- The idler pulley nut should be tightened to 29 ft-lbs.
Installing the Power Steering Pump and Air Box
- Insert the 14mm pivot bolt after positioning the power steering pump. Just now, tighten your hands.
- The 14mm tension lock nut should now be threaded into position.
- Around the relevant pullies, wrap the power steering belt. To tension the drive belt to 100 lbs., use a 14mm tensioner bolt.
- The 14mm tension nut and 14mm pivot bolt should both be torqued to 32 ft-lbs.
- Change the little line and corresponding spring clamp.
- Make sure a crush washer is between the 17mm banjo bolt and fitting, as well as between the fitting and power steering pump, before replacing it. to 34 ft-lbs of torque. Before tightening the banjo bolt, make sure the tube’s stopper touches the body of the PS pump.
- 3 12mm bolts that hold the air box in place must be tightened.
- The air intake tube is connected, and the 10mm hose clamp holding it in place is tightened.
- The little vacuum tube is secured to the box by the compression clamp being tightened after the small line has been connected.
- Connect the MAF again.
Finish by bleeding the power steering system and adding fresh fluid where it was lost during the removal of the power steering pump.
- Lift the two wheels at the front of the vehicle.
- DEX/MERC Automatic Transmission Fluid should be added till the “cold fill” line in the power steering reservoir.
- Check the fluid level and keep it filled to the “cold fill” line while turning the wheels to full lock on the left and right multiple times.
- Launch the engine.
- Take note of the reservoir. If it is, keep spinning the wheel until all the bubbles have disappeared. Fill up to the “cold fill” line after that.
You have now successfully replaced your A/C compressor. Replace any further A/C system parts you need to replace before moving on to recharging the A/C system.
Recharging the A/C System
You are prepared to recharge your air conditioning system if you have acquired (or already had) all of the necessary tools. From beginning to end, the procedure takes roughly 2 hours, although a large portion of that time is spent waiting to make sure the system isn’t leaking before you fill it with refrigerant. Here is a description of the complete process:
Can I change the AC compressor on my own?
No matter what brand your air conditioner is, or how carefully you maintain it, the compressor will ultimately need to be changed. You can replace your air conditioner’s compressor by following the instructions below if you have determined that the problem is with the compressor. Refrigerant gas is compressed by a compressor before being sent to a condenser, where it is cooled and transformed into a liquid.
By submerging the coil in water or using a fan, the gas can be cooled. Normally, a professional should replace a compressor, but if you are skilled with your hands, you can do it yourself at home. Additionally, you can save a sizable sum of money by doing the work yourself.
The compressor will require the replacement of the following parts:
- updated compressor
- basic hand tools including pliers, ratchets, screwdrivers, and wrenches
- Recovery tank for refrigerants
- apparatus for system recovery and charging
- Refrigerant
- Torch
Replacing Compressor
Determine type: Since there are many different types of compressors, it’s crucial to know the right one before starting this job. The device or the outdated compressor will have the right part number and type. Turn off the power before doing any maintenance work on the system. This will help to avoid major harm or even death.
Usually, the power switch and circuit breakers are close to the appliance. Your primary breaker panel might also have breakers.
Delete the refrigerant
In order to relieve the pressure that an air conditioning system is always under, all of the refrigerants must be removed. Remember that in most situations, in order to remove or install refrigerant, you must be certified.
The recovered refrigerant must be kept in a tank that has been certified and not let loose into the atmosphere.
Draw lines.
Cut the compressor’s refrigerant lines, then unplug the electrical connector.
Bolt in the new compressor and attach the electrical connector to complete the compressor installation. Additionally, the compressor must be brazed to the refrigerant lines.
AssembleAssemble the condenser unit and add the recovered refrigerant to the system.
A Tacoma AC compressor costs how much?
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How durable are Toyota AC compressors?
Have you ever been dismayed to discover that, on a scorching summer day, your air conditioner isn’t chilling the room enough? Even the best of us experience it. Thankfully, we are fully aware of how to resolve the signs of a damaged air conditioning compressor.
One of the most important signs that something is wrong with your car’s air conditioning system is inadequate cooling, among other things. Although you find it bothersome and frustrating, fortunately, a Natrad professional can assist you in solving the issue.
Your air conditioning system has a lot of parts, so if you want to know how to identify the troublemaker, keep reading.
The greatest network of cooling experts in Australia includes Natrad workshops. Natrad can effectively assist you in identifying problems with A/C compressors because to its extensive experience in the cooling and air conditioning business.
Symptoms of a failing A/C compressor
Let’s examine the indications of failed car air conditioning compressors that brought you here.
The lifespan of a car’s compressor is typically 12 to 15 years, depending on how well the car is maintained. Having said that, it’s crucial to frequently service and inspect your vehicle in order to avoid an early failure.
Some indicators that something is failing include:
- Leaks
- eerie noises
- chilly air
- ECU mistake
- seized compressor belt or clutch
Later, we’ll discuss what these signs might mean, but for now, let’s define and explain what a compressor is.
What is this thing?
The air conditioning system in your automobile wouldn’t work without a compressor, which is a crucial part of the system.
Due to the fact that it is connected to the crankshaft via a drive belt, it is also the only moving component of the A/C system. In contrast to other parts of the air conditioning system, it gets its power straight from the engine.
Given this circumstance, it’s crucial to regularly check on the compressor as it may be more susceptible to wear and tear.
What does a compressor do?
The compressor is a component of the high pressure side of the air conditioning system, which transfers refrigerant gas through the condenser and changes it from a gas to a liquid.
The refrigerant gas is compressed by the compressor, which causes it to become extremely hot. This is then transferred to the condenser, which cools the gas, turns it into liquid, and circulates it to the expansion valve and receiver dryer.
Once inside the evaporator, it is exposed to the heated cabin air and transforms back into gas. It “evaporates,” as the name implies, and as a result, gets exceedingly chilly. As directed by the blower fan, this cold is transferred through the evaporator’s metal tubes and fins to bring cool, dry air into the cabin.
The compressor is a crucial component of this procedure, as you can probably guess by this point.
Key indicators of compressor failure
We previously described a few typical compressor failure symptoms, but what do they actually signify and how do they occur?
Leaks indicate that refrigerant will eventually escape from the system at some point. Typically, compressor leaks occur at the shaft seal, hoses, O-rings, and gaskets. They can be challenging to identify and may need to be found with the use of a specialized UV dye or electronic leak detector. To keep things oiled, the refrigerant also contains an oil mist that circulates. The air conditioning cycle won’t run if there isn’t enough refrigerant, which might harm more than just the compressor.
There could be a few causes of strange noises. Either the compressor’s internal components have failed, which could produce some unpleasant noises, or something has seized. This is most likely the compressor clutch or belt pulley.
The compressor is unable to circulate enough refrigerant to maintain the system functioning properly, which is either due to a shortage of refrigerant or a failing component.
ECU mistake
A check engine light on your dashboard is a clear indication that something more nefarious is there. The ECU monitors voltage signals going to components like the compressor and can identify signals that aren’t working properly and could supply voltage incorrectly.
Typical reasons for failure include:
- Corrosion
- components of the compressor losing lubrication (leading to internal part breakage)