17. Cut the wiring for the radiator fan. Find the ECU or fan mounted controller. Depress the center release with your finger or a flathead screwdriver to release the large, black fan main connector from the fan ECU. Find the engine mount wiring that is active. In order to remove it from the active engine mount VSV, depress the center release. Remove the radiator fan’s right wiring harness holder. To detach the wiring holder from the radiator fan, press the sides of the holder down and push the holder backward with your needle nose pliers.
The black connector was dangerously glued to the ECU. I had to use a screwdriver to press down on the center and carefully remove the connector body away from the ECU.
18. Take the radiator’s upper radiator hose off. Open the wiring holder holding the oxygen sensor wire to the top radiator pipe using your flathead screwdriver. Press the radiator hose clamp inward with your needle-nose pliers to lock it in the open position. On the hose, lower the clamp. Carefully pry up the radiator hose’s seal with hose pliers, a pocket screwdriver, or your hand to free it from the radiator.
Attention: This car’s oxygen sensor wire holder broke. Zip ties were used in its place.
19. Remove the fan’s connection to the radiator. Find the three retaining clips at the radiator fan’s top. To detach the fan from the radiator, squeeze the clips inward with your needle-nose pliers and pull it forth. You must carry out each task one at a time while continuously easing the fan. To detach the fan from the radiator, pull it in that direction.
The left wiring harness holder is removed at step 20. Push the wiring holder backward and crush the sides using a screwdriver or needle nose pliers to detach it from the radiator fan. The radiator fan harness should be taken off and stored.
The radiator fan assembly should be taken off the car at number 21. To make room for the radiator fan, carefully pull the radiator and condensor towards the front of the vehicle with your hands. From the top of the car, carefully lift the radiator fan assembly out. Dispose of the fan.
A/C lines could be damaged if you pull the radiator and condenser back too much.
Notably, this is the most challenging aspect of the entire task. The fan should emerge with a slight forward tilt (top towards the front towards the front angle).
This is another instance where it would have been simpler to remove the lower intake duct.
22. Unplug the connector for the alternator. Depress the center release with your finger or a flat-head screwdriver to unplug the alternator connector.
23. Cut the power wire for the alternator. Pull the cap off the alternator terminal with your flathead screwdriver. Remove the 10mm nut holding the power wire to the alternator by using your 3/8 inch drive ratchet, 10mm socket, or 10mm combination wrench. The terminal’s wire should be slid. To ensure safety, replace the alternator’s nut.
Warning: It’s crucial to have the battery unplugged. When the battery is connected, removing the power line could cause serious harm, death, or property damage.
24. Take off the wiring harness holder from the front valve cover and alternator. Push the center catch outward (toward the driver side) with your small flat head screwdriver to release the holder from the alternator. Pull the holder from the valve cover by pushing the center catch outward (toward the passenger side) with your little flat head screwdriver.
Remove the big A/C compressor connector (number 25). (main compressor harness). Depress the center release with your finger or a flat-head screwdriver to unplug the alternator connector.
26. Unplug the connector for the camshaft position sensor. Depress the center release with your finger or a flathead screwdriver to take off the sensor connector.
27. Take off the thermostat housing’s bottom radiator hose. Press the radiator hose clamp inward with your needle-nose pliers to lock it in the open position. On the hose, lower the clamp. Carefully pry the radiator line apart from the thermostat housing using hose pliers, a pocket screwdriver, or your hand. Discard the hose.
28. Disconnect the engine’s previous alternator.
a. Remove the upper 14mm alternator mounting bolt holding the alternator to the engine using your ratchet and 14mm socket.
a. Carefully remove the threaded rear bushing away from the front of the alternator using your pry bar or screwdriver.
c. Remove the front lower 14mm alternator mounting bolt that is holding the alternator to the engine with your 14mm wrench.
e. Unscrew the bolt holding the rear alternator bracket to the engine using your ratchet, extension, and 12mm socket.
f. Carefully pry the alternator away from the engine using your pry bar or a big screwdriver, but don’t try to completely remove it.
Precaution: Be careful not to pry too hard as this could cause the compressor harness wiring to come apart from the compressor pins.
f. Find the wiring holder holding the alternator’s wiring harness to the A/C compressor harness.
h. To detach the wiring holder from the alternator, pressure the sides of the device and push it downward with your needle-nose pliers or screwdriver.
In This Article...
How much does a 2009 Toyota Camry alternator replacement cost?
Best in Automotive Repair Alternator replacement for a Toyota Camry typically costs between $418 and $661. While parts are priced between $329 and $549, labor is predicted to cost between $89 and $113. Taxes and other fees are not included in this range, nor are your particular model year or geographic area taken into account.
Can I swap an alternator out on my own?
You can replace an alternator on your own in around two hours on average, however this may vary a little depending on your level of auto technician expertise. Timing may vary slightly and you might have to leave the car for the day if you bring your car to a shop to have the alternator replaced.
How long does a Toyota Camry’s alternator last?
Most alternators have a lifespan of 80,000150,000 miles, or roughly seven years. However, your driving style and the environment where you reside could prematurely wear it out. To keep your Toyota running smoothly on Hilton Head roads when that happens, you’ll need to get a new alternator.
Dim or Overly Bright Lights
Your electronic gadgets receive erratic voltage when an alternator starts to fail. This typically manifests as under- or over-performing equipment, such as headlights that are either too dim or excessively bright. Additionally, you can see lights that erratically switch from bright to low and vice versa.
Dead Battery
A dead battery may occasionally just be a dead battery. After a few years of use, it has either reached the end of its lifespan or you may have unintentionally kept the headlights on all night. A dead battery may occasionally indicate a problem with your alternator, though.
When the engine is operating, a defective alternator won’t adequately charge the battery, resulting in a quicker than usual discharge of the charge. Jumpstarting the vehicle is one approach to determine if the problem is with the battery or alternator. If your car runs after being jumpstarted, your battery may need to be replaced shortly. If the car dies again soon after being jumpstarted, it may indicate that your alternator isn’t providing enough power to the battery.
Slow or Malfunctioning Accessories
Accessories that operate slowly or not at all are frequently a sign that your alternator isn’t providing enough power to your car’s electronics. You might have an alternator issue if you notice that your windows roll up or down more slowly than usual, if your seat warmers seem “off,” or even if your speedometer and other instruments start acting strangely.
If the alternator isn’t producing enough electricity, many modern cars feature a priority list of equipment that informs the onboard computer where to cut power first. In this manner, if your alternator fails while you’re on the road, your radio or other unnecessary equipment will continue to function before your headlights.
Trouble Starting or Frequent Stalling
As was already noted, if your engine is difficult to start, your alternator may not be charging the battery. As a result, when you turn the key in the ignition, all you’ll hear is a clicking noise rather than your engine’s purring sound.
On the other hand, if your car repeatedly stalls out while you’re driving, it can mean that the alternator isn’t supplying the spark plugs with enough power to keep the engine running.
Growling or Whining Noises
There are many strange noises that cars make; some are harmless, while others may be signs of major technical issues. You should have your alternator checked properly by a professional right away if you ever hear growling or whining sounds coming from underneath the hood.
When the belt that rotates the alternator pulley falls out of alignment or rubs against the pulley’s side, a growling or whining sound is produced. If the bearings that spin the rotor shaft are failing, you can also hear this noise.
Smell of Burning Rubber or Wires
A burning rubber or wire stench could be a sign that your alternator’s components are beginning to wear out. The drive belt for the alternator may eventually wear down and give off a terrible burning rubber odor due to the constant tension and friction it experiences as well as its proximity to the hot engine.
Similar to an electrical fire, your alternator may smell burning if it is overworked or if it has frayed or damaged wiring. Wires in an overworked alternator heat up dangerously as a result of trying to force too much energy through them. In addition to creating resistance to the passage of power, damaged wires often heat up and smell bad.
Battery Warning Light on Dash
When the battery warning light appears on the dashboard, it’s frequently believed to indicate a problem with the battery. The battery warning light, however, suggests that there might be an issue with your car’s larger electrical system, which includes the alternator.
The normal operating voltage for alternators is between 13 and 14.5 volts. The battery warning light on your dash may come on if your alternator is malfunctioning because its voltage may fall below its maximum level. Similarly, depending on how much strain the alternator is under, the battery light may also come on if the alternator is operating above its voltage limit.
The alternator may fluctuate in and out of its intended voltage capacity depending on the electrical demand from your car’s accessories (headlights, wipers, radio, etc.), which might cause the battery warning light to flash on and off. Although it can seem like a minor inconvenience, it’s preferable to have your car inspected for alternators than to become stranded on the side of the road.
The alternator can AutoZone replace?
To make sure the charging system is operating properly, you can take the car to AutoZone and have the alternator examined there. Depending on the precise year, make, model, and engine of your vehicle, some of these instructions may change somewhat.
Is changing an alternator difficult?
Lacking funds this holiday season? One of the cheapest repairs you can make at home is replacing an alternator, which can cost several hundred dollars to accomplish at your neighborhood repair shop. You can change it yourself with a few simple tools and an hour or so, allowing you to keep your money where it belongsin your pocket.
You’ll see several Craftsman tools in the photographs, including Cross Force Wrenches, as this project is sponsored by Craftsman. The truth is that we already owned them all. The tools we used before they became sponsors are the same ones we utilized now. Really!
How long does an alternator change take a mechanic?
We’re happy to see you moving toward mending your Jeep! It will take a professional roughly two hours to replace an alternator.
There may be a delay before a technician can work on your vehicle, so it doesn’t mean it will only be there for two hours. Also, it will take longer if the shop needs to order parts.
While your car is being repaired, why not download Jerry to get a more affordable auto insurance plan?
An authorized brokerage software called Jerry was developed to make comparing insurance quotes easier. Jerry provides you with a lengthy number of competitive vehicle insurance quotes following a quick, free sign-up. Jerry also assists with paperwork once you’ve selected a policy.
On a v6 Camry, how do you replace the alternator?
Instructions
- Take the wiring harness off, then step aside.
- disconnect the battery cable.
- Remove the connector from the alternator’s backside.
- To release the belt, turn the 12 mm bolt under the alternator.
- Remove the 14mm alternator pivot bolt.
- To loosen and remove the alternator, slide it back and forth.
A Denso alternator is what?
Many of the top production cars in the world use DENSO alternators as original equipment because of their low weight, great efficiency, and endurance under the harshest situations. DENSO First Time Fit Alternators offer flawless attachment with no problems with belt or pulley alignment.