Certified A/C Pro R-134a PAG 46 Refrigerant Oil With ICE 32 by Interdynamics, 8 fl. oz (Part No. GPL-5)
In This Article...
Quick disconnect fitting for AC recharge charging port
Some recharge kits have this fitting that quickly and securely connects to the AC recharge charging connector.
Your air conditioner probably lost some refrigerant during the winter if it was blowing ice-cold air last year but is now hardly cooling. When aging seals shrink and some refrigerant leaks out, that occurs in older automobiles.
Typically, turning on the automobile air conditioning will send you back to the freezing cold. If your car was built after 1993 and is filled with R-134a refrigerant, you can complete that task by yourself (to make sure, check the label under the hood or the specifications section of your owner’s manual).
Restrictions may apply to the sale of R-134a refrigerant to consumers in several states. The cans may occasionally be designed differently, necessitating various charging techniques. All AC issues won’t be resolved by charging the AC. However, if you’re willing to risk $50 on a rechargeable ac kit, you could become a cool dude in less than an hour. By performing the auto ac recharge yourself, you can save roughly $100 on labor.
Pick up an R-134a A/C recharging kit at any auto parts store. Because it included a quick-connect fitting and reusable gauge, as well as a seal conditioner ingredient in the refrigerant, I used the A/C Pro product you see here. For an AC recharge for a car, however, any brand will work. A word of caution: Many commercial recharging kits utilize oils and seal conditioners that are incompatible with the electric AC recharge compressors in hybrid vehicles. A fatal electrical shock might be caused by using the incorrect auto ac recharge kit. Before making a purchase, verify that your hybrid vehicle is compatible with the car ac recharge product on the label. Consult a professional if you’re unsure.
Caution
If used incorrectly, refrigerant can result in frostbite and severe eye damage. Wear gloves and goggles when doing the process, and pay close attention to all the warnings in the package instructions.
What are the 2007 Toyota Camry’s main issues?
The Toyota Camry has a long history of being dependable in the automobile industry. It’s simple to understand why given its inexpensive price, enough power, good fuel efficiency, and propensity to continue operating faultlessly for tens of thousands of kilometers. Unfortunately, everything has flaws, and the Toyota Camry is no different. Some model years should be handled with caution, while others should be completely avoided.
Some 2007 Toyota Camrys May Have Oil Consumption Problems and Issue with Melting Dashboards
More than any other year, the 2007 Toyota Camry has received 1,010 NHTSA complaints. These complaints are overwhelmingly about the engine’s propensity to use excessive amounts of oil.
According to Car Complaints, the 2007 Toyota Camry’s top two most noticeable problems are oil consumption and oil burning. Their analysis shows that these problems begin to manifest on average between 97,000 and 111,000 kilometers. Additionally, the average cost of fixing these issues is between $2,100 and $2,400.
The material in the dashboard of the 2007 Toyota Camry has a tendency to melt when exposed to heated temperatures, which is the third most noticeable problem. According to a 2019 NBC News 5 investigation on the subject, the NHTSA has received more than 150 complaints involving melted Toyota Camry dashboards since 2006. According to NBC News 5, Florida and Texas are where it’s most common.
Camry May Be Worst Year of All, Continuing Oil Problems, and Adding Defective Paint and Failing Engines
It’s interesting to note that the 2007 Toyota Camry is not the worst model year, despite receiving a disproportionately high amount of complaints. That is given to the 2009 Toyota Camry, which has the same problem with oil consumption as the 2007 models. The 2009 Camry, however, also has more costly faults.
According to reports, the 2009 Toyota Camry had poor exterior painting. Owners began seeing fading in the clear coat and generally poor paint condition as early as 24,000 miles, according to NHTSA concerns. A 2009 Camry with poor paint will typically cost $3,000 to repair, according to Car Complaints.
However, complete engine failure is arguably the most worrying criticism of the 2009 Camry. And it doesn’t get any worse than the necessity for a new engine. Car Complaints claims that the issue typically manifests after just 116,000 kilometers. What’s worse is that the typical repair bill is a staggering $4,100.
Toyota Camrys’ Accelerator Pedal Recall Make the Era the Definitive Years to Avoid
One of the largest recalls in the history of the automobile was started in October 2009 by Toyota and the NHTSA. Due to pedal entrapment, Toyota recalled approximately 4.4 million vehicles. Toyota allegedly believed that unfastened floor mats were pinning and entangling accelerator pedals. An open accelerator pedal that is stuck may result in extremely high vehicle speeds and make it challenging to stop the vehicle, which could lead to a collision.
Additionally, a second recall was issued in January 2010 for the same problema sticky accelerator pedal. The Toyota Camry model years 2007 through 2010 were included in the recall. According to the statement, without the assistance of a floor mat, the accelerator pedals may become caught in the depressed position, leading to unexpected acceleration and potentially fatal accidents.
These two unexpected acceleration recalls, according to a 2010 CBS News report, were to blame for at least 89 fatalities and 57 non-lethal injuries.
Late-2000s Camrys are Problematic, Especially 2007-2010 Models, but Aside from its Recalls, the Toyota Camry is a Trustworthy Vehicle
The Camry is an excellent car overall, despite having some unfortunate problems throughout a four-year period. The 2007 to 2010 model years should ultimately be completely avoided by used automobile buyers.
However, data from Car Complaints reveals that almost all other model year examples receive extremely few faults and complaints. The majority of Toyota Camry model years have fewer than 100 NHTSA complaints, with the 2017 model year having the fewest at only 16.
Due to the Camry’s extensive production run, almost any buyer may find a Camry within their price range. So, keep a look out for concerns and recalls and ask for the service history. In general, purchasing a Toyota Camry will put you in a dependable car that will consistently take you from point A to point B for years to come.
Why is my Toyota Camry’s AC not working?
Refrigerant leaks, electrical climate control problems, or issues with the air conditioning compressor are the three most frequent causes of air conditioning problems in Toyota Camry vehicles. Before the air conditioner quits blowing cold, you might not be aware that there is a refrigerant leak.
Do AutoZone air conditioners require recharging?
Most of the time, this may be resolved by using a trusted stop leak additive to halt any leaks. Visit AutoZone for an AC recharge when the time comes. Along with other things, we sell R134a refrigerant, PAG46 oil, AC stop leak, and AC system cleanser.
AutoZone plans to add refrigerant.
Check out our list of recommended stores in your neighborhood for assistance if you need assistance with this or any other AC recharge or service. Alternatively, AutoZone has all the equipment and refrigerant necessary to service your R-134A or R-12 car if you choose to handle the work on your own.
How much does it cost to recharge the AC in your car?
Taxes, fees, and your specific make and model are not taken into account in this price range, which is based on national averages for all automobiles. It may also be necessary to do related maintenance or repairs including replacing the fuel filter, the O2 sensor, and the spark plug wires. Use the RepairPal Fair Price Estimator to get a more exact quote depending on your make, model, and location.
Where is the 2007 Toyota Camry’s low pressure AC port located?
On the passenger side, close to the condenser, will be the low side service port (silver aluminum-cylinder shaped piece attached to aluminum lines).
How can I refuel my r134a car air conditioner?
To replenish or top off the refrigerant in your car’s air conditioning system, turn on the engine, set the air conditioner to the coldest setting, and open the doors to prevent the air conditioner from shutting off when it gets cool inside the car. Let the engine and AC system run for about five minutes before adding refrigerant.
Is refrigerant liquid or gas?
The mechanical components just serve to induce the exchange of hot and cold air; the refrigerant itself really cools the house. Refrigerant is a chemical that, when changed from a gas to a liquid state, has a remarkable capacity to absorb heat.
The refrigerant can absorb heat from within your house and release it outside when it undergoes a state change as a result of compression and pressurization. While the air conditioning system is functioning, the refrigerant circulates continuously in a loop to convert hot air to cool air.
Why isn’t the AC blowing chilly air in my car?
The requirement for a recharge is the most frequent reason why a car’s air conditioner doesn’t get chilly enough. You can replenish your refrigerant on your own, but scheduling an appointment with a neighborhood reputable auto shop will save you time and ensure the service is done correctly.
I don’t have a pump, how can I vacuum my car’s AC?
You won’t get the most out of your AC system if you don’t vacuum it, especially after installation or maintenance. Why?
Element such as air, humidity, and moisture may accumulate in the air conditioning system when it is exposed to the atmosphere. Even a small quantity of these substances can have a major impact on the AC’s function or, worse yet, cause serious issues.
So, if you were wondering if vacuuming your AC system was really necessary, the answer is yes! You may ensure optimum functioning by vacuuming the system to get rid of any moisture and air.
This article goes into greater detail on how to vacuum your air conditioning system without a pump. You can learn how to do this by using the following advice.
Only refrigerant and oil are allowed to flow within refrigeration systems for them to function properly. The body perceives any additional substance as foreign and requires removal. To maintain the appropriate operation and avoid freezing of your system, they must be eliminated, whether they are air, moisture, debris, or oxides.
The ideal method for an AC evacuation is a vacuum pump, although it’s not the only one. However, installing access valves on both the low and high pressure sides of your system is necessary for the optimum pump substitute.
Turn on your compressor once it has been installed, together with the low-pressure and high-pressure access valves. After that, open your AC’s high-pressure side access valve.
Close the high-pressure access valve and turn off your compressor after the upper side pressure reaches its lowest position. You will have depressed your access valve by carrying out these easy actions.
After you’ve successfully finished depressing the access valve, go to the next step. In this case, you must charge the lower pressure side to around 14 psi.
Following this, you should spend around three minutes watching both the high and low pressure sides closely. By doing this, the pressure on both sides will be balanced.
Restart your compressor once you’ve finished step two and the pressures are equal on both sides. Then, just as in step one, depress the high-pressure access valve once more.
Instead of keeping an eye on the high side pressure, pay attention to the low side pressure. Allow the access valve on the high side to close once it has sunk as low as it can.
Again, turn off the compressor once the valve is fully closed. The third step is finished.
Charge the low-pressure side of your AC to roughly 14 psi, just like you did in step two. Once more, wait and keep an eye on the pressure on either side for about three minutes, or until they balance. Repeat the high-pressure access valve depressing procedure after turning on your compressor.
You’ll see that the low-side pressure doesn’t drop as low as it did in the previous steps if the evacuation is successful. This happens as a result of the refrigerant being absorbed by the compressor oil and then slowly releasing.
If the high-pressure side valve isn’t currently releasing any gas, let it turn off. Your air conditioning system will be clear of all air and moisture by this point.
The method for cleaning your AC system without a pump comes to a close with this step. Start by adding the appropriate amount of refrigerant to your AC system. The system is now ready to use; simply turn off your compressor after that.
Depending on the sort of AC system you are working on, you may need to modify the procedure.
Why Should You Vacuum Your AC System?
More issues than you might think arise when air and moisture build up in an air conditioning system. Vacuuming makes sure that your home’s air conditioning is not harmed, even though some of the problems could be more serious than others.
Let’s look at a few of these issues and how consistent vacuuming can help prevent them.
- Because air is a non-condensate gas, it occupies more space in the system than refrigerants do, lowering the condenser’s capacity. As a result, the condenser and cooling capacity of the AC are decreased.
- Reduced refrigerant charge: As there is more non-condensate air, the refrigerant has less room to circulate. Little refrigerant indicates that the refrigerant system and the refrigerant pipe will be charged with less of it.
- As the system’s temperatures and pressure rise, the condenser’s capacity decreases due to a lack of refrigerant. The system’s pressure and temperature rise as a result.
- Energy consumption goes up because there is a higher power load and a higher demand for energy to keep the compressor from overheating. As a result, your energy expenses can go up at the end of the month.
- Acid buildup: When moisture mixes with the lubricant in the system, acid is created. As a result, the internal AC system mechanisms may start to rust and eventually fail.