Toyota performance is in good hands with LC Engineering. The business has been operating for a while and has built, tested on a dyno, tuned, and produced some of the greatest Toyota performance parts available. We thought it was time to use the crew’s experience on our ‘Yota project as LCE specializes on the 20R, 22R, and 22RE engines. After upgrading to LCE’s robust dual-row timing-chain system, we went one step further and chose to purchase the EFI Power Package, which can boost our basic 22RE motor’s power by 2530 hp.
The set comprises the LCE Street Header Kit, the LCE Big Bore Throttle Body, the EFI Pro Camshaft, and a K&N Filter Charger. A collection of components called the EFI Power Package was created and tested to deliver the highest bolt-on power for a stock 22RE engine. We opted to postpone the header installation until we can rework the remainder of the exhaust system because we still have other modifications for Project Dragged Daily that would significantly impact the exhaust system, such as a body drop. Once we had the remaining items, we went to visit Guy “Cracky” Longley of Glendora Import Specialists. Guy is also the master of getting these motors to run well and has a 22RE in a beefed-up tiny Toyota.
Guy replaced our stock cam with LCE’s professional version, replaced our old throttle body with a big-bore body, and installed a K&N filter in lieu of our old (not to mention unsightly and huge) airbox in a matter of a few hours. It was time to put the changes to the test on the dyno after everything was installed and the engine had run for 30 minutes to break in the cam. An average 22RE engine produces 116 horsepower and 140 lb-ft of torque. See how well our motor performed by looking at the dyno spec box. Remember that we haven’t updated the exhaust system or added the header yet. Only the gains from the Pro Camshaft, the big-bore throttle body, and the K&N filter are shown in our calculations. We gained more than 20 horsepower by removing the header. Contact the businesses named in the source box for more details.
In This Article...
How can my 22RE run more efficiently?
One of the best exhaust manifolds is a header “bolt-on performance improvements for your 22R series engine that are cost-effective. The purpose of a header is to remove the back pressure often produced by the factory style manifold and enable your engine to push exhaust gases directly out of the cylinders, which is more effective. In contrast to the factory exhaust manifold, which has a shared big chamber for each pair of cylinders, our header has an equal-length exhaust pipe for each cylinder. These pipes further combine into a larger pipe “called the collector further down the line. By making them all the same length, it prevents back pressure from being created by the cylinders sharing the collector by ensuring that the exhaust gases from each cylinder enter the collector evenly spaced apart. If you drive carefully, this will result in a 10% boost in power and enhanced fuel efficiency.
How is a refurbished 22RE broken in?
HAVE YOU ADDED OIL TO IT? Did you fill the oil filter in advance? Go to the next step after that, cool.
Locate the EFI fuse in the fuse box underneath the hood. Take that out. (On some early 19851986 trucks, the EFI fuse is located at the drivers side kick panel in the cab fuse box.)
Those of you with carburetors, disconnect the gasoline supply line from the fuel pump and CAPS IT OFF.
Turn it back on. It can take 10 to 30 seconds of total cranking time to get the “oil light to go out or your gauge (if you have an SR5 vehicle) to register in the “normal” range (WITHOUT the coil wire placed onto the distributor cap and the EFI fuse REMOVED).
Put the EFI fuse back in and reconnect that coil wire to the distributor once the “oil light turns off after cranking (or, for you SR5 kids, when it reaches the “normal” range).
Reverse the engine once more. should begin immediately (it may take a few seconds of cranking to get the proper fuel pressure). Jump out of the cab as soon as it starts (it will if you’ve done everything above) and look under the truck. Leaks?!!!!???? No? Good.
Does anything leak? If so, where? Have you accounted for connecting the gasoline return line? A coolant pipe at the heater core side needs to be tightened, did you forget to do that? If you missed something, it ought to be fairly evident. IT IS BAD IF ANY FLUID LEAKS UNDER IT! Turn off the truck immediately, and tighten those hoses! Stop right away and fix any seeps, drips, leaks, or anything similar!
When you are satisfied with your installation (are there any leaks, such as coolant leaks or oil leaks? ), move on to the following stage.
Run the engine for 15 minutes at 15002000 RPM to properly break in your engine and camshaft. Your camshaft will break in properly and your piston rings will help seat as a result. Watch your temperature gauge and the oil pressure (gauge) light as well.
PRIOR TO THE FIRST ROAD TEST:
One of the most important factors in getting your engine to run right and operate to its full potential is setting the timing appropriately. You did not work on a 350 engine when you were a child. This engine cannot be tuned “by ear” and the points set with a matchbook cover like an air-cooled VW bug. Not tuning your 22R/22RE engine properly can result in SEVERE engine damage, very poor performance, and poor gas mileage. Take things seriously.
Once it reaches the standard operating temperature, you may now use a timing light to set the timing. Take a paper clip and make it straight before bending it into a “U shape.” You can locate a diagram in the little plastic container adjacent to the underhood fuse box (shown in the second pic below). Put the paper clip into the “E1” and “Te1” terminals.
EFI trucks from the years 1985 through 1986 (and some from 1987) do not have this box; the location to jump it is at the DRIVERS side fenderwell. The connector with two wires is what it is (not 1, not 3 or 4, just 2). It resembles a connector for a wiring harness and is intended to be “connected into” a rubber grommet that is located on the inner fenderwell. When your “check engine” light is on, you can count the codes using the same connector. shown beneath.
Start the engine and check to see if it is near to normal idle speed and working at normal temperature (700 to 900 rpm). With the connector jumped, direct the timing light down to the front pulley and crank the distributor slowly until the mark on the front pulley coincides with the “5 degree mark on the oil pump pointer. Your current setting is “base timing.” Now that you have removed the jumper from the diagnostic box, the time should have increased to the “12 degree mark. If it doesn’t move when you remove the jumper, the throttle position sensor may need to be adjusted, or the jumper may not have been well inserted in the diagnostic connector. Repeat the previous procedures after checking both.
FOR ENGINE-DRIVEN TRUCKS:
It’s a little different with your truck because the timing is not computer controlled. Remove BOTH vacuum lines from your distributor’s vacuum advance and cap them both to set the initial base timing (golf tees work perfect). Turn your distributor until the pointer is at the 0 degree mark while the timing light is directed at the lower pulley (and the vacuum lines are disconnected and capped). Reconnect the inner vacuum advance line while the engine is still running; the timing marks should move up by 5 to 7 degrees. Next, attach the second vacuum line. Nothing ought to have changed (there shouldn’t be vacuum at that line when the engine is idle). You may have a defective vacuum advance unit if there is no timing change when you connect the “inner vacuum line” and there is vacuum at the hose when the engine is running. Test both of the diaphragms with a hand-held vacuum pump. Both must maintain vacuum and refrain from bleeding. If not, carry out the above-mentioned methods and replace the vacuum advance unit.
initial road test
It’s time for the road test now that the timing has been set correctly and the coolant and oil levels have been checked. Turn off the audio and focus on the engine during the initial driving test. Keep one eye on the road and the other on the oil pressure and coolant temperature gauges (or gauge). Drive it like you normally would, but pay attention for anything unusual. If you hear any pinging (pre-detonation) during acceleration, return the vehicle to the shop and double-check your timing. very important Your new engine will be ruined by improper timing.
Bring it back to the store after your initial road test. Check again for any oil drips or coolant seeps, and remedy them right away. Check the oil level again. Check the coolant level and top it off as necessary after it has sufficiently cooled and there is no longer any pressure on the cooling system. Put a sizable piece of cardboard under it the first time you plan to leave it overnight. Look for any drips on the cardboard the next day. then double-check the coolant level before starting it (remember, it may take a few trips to get all of the air out of the cooling system).
RECOMMENDED:
We advise taking your truck to a place that has an emissions tester or exhaust gas analyzer to have it examined before you start racking up miles on your rebuilt engine. You might be able to remedy any concerns before they become problems by examining the tailpipe emissions. Your catalytic convertor might have been harmed if your engine broke down as a result of a blown head gasket, oil consumption, etc. If your truck is running properly and isn’t excessively rich or lean, an emissions test or exhaust gas analyzer test will let you know. You carbureted people especially need to pay attention to this.
Is a 22RE motor reliable?
The Toyota Hilux, often known as the Toyota Pickup or Truck in the US, has a longstanding reputation for being almost indestructible. The 22R (carbureted) and 22RE (fuel injected) four-cylinder engines, which formed the basis of the vehicle’s drivetrain lineup, are largely responsible for its halo.
The only maintenance required for this 2.4-liter engine, which is also found in the 4Runner, Celica, and Cressida, is a timing chain replacement every 100,000 miles. Toyota did its best to overbuild the 22R/RE with a forged crank and a high nickel content in its cast iron blocks because it is still working to establish its reputation as a manufacturer of dependable and efficient automobiles abroad. The cylinder head utilized a hemispherical design, and both single and dual row timing chain versions were offered for sale.
Despite having a turbocharged variant, the long-stroke 22R and 22RE are at their finest when used as low-power (about 100 horsepower), task-focused engines that produce exceptional low-end torque (due to their long stroke) and fuel efficiency for their size. After 1985, a redesign with new pistons and a lower deck height would add about 10 horsepower.
In 1995, the motor would finally be withdrawn, capping nearly 15 years of devoted service.
How many horsepower does a Toyota pickup from 1986 possess?
This truck was part of the first year that Toyota Pickups were supplied with independent front suspension in place of the live axle found on prior models. It is a 1986 model. This modification was made to enhance on-road handling, and it worked well enough to become a standard feature on four-wheel drive Toyota Pickups starting in 1986.
The fourth generation Pickup was available with a variety of engines, ranging from the 1.6 liter inline-four used in some rear-wheel drive variants to the 3.0 liter V6 utilized later in the model’s life.
The Toyota 22R-2.4-liter E’s gasoline engine, which has 105 horsepower, powers the vehicle.
The fuel-injected 22R-E, an inline-four cylinder engine with a chain-driven single overhead cam and two valves per cylinder, has always been one of the most well-liked models. With a sweeping volume of 2.4 liters (2,366cc), the 22R-E generates 136 lb ft of torque at 2,800 rpm and 105 horsepower at 4,800 rpm.
Rear wheels or front and rear wheels may receive power from an automatic transmission into a two speed transfer case.
This Pickup has attractive factory logos, a beige exterior, and a two-tone brown interior. The improvements include chromed Cragar wheels with BF Goodrich All Terrain tires, KC Daylighter lighting affixed to a chrome roll bar, and other period-appropriate additions.
It comes with a tool roll and instruction manuals and is sure to be popular at any Radwood event.