Anyone who feels comfortable with a truck, floor jack, and some jack stands can complete this installation, which is simpler than you might think. Using the most basic automotive tools, you can do this installation. It will take you and a friend 4 to 8 hours to finish if you take your time and double-check your work.
In This Article...
Installation Video & Overview
A 2016 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off-Road is the vehicle I drive. I’m eager to see how well this kit performs because the vehicle has never had any suspension improvements.
On Amazon, I settled on one of the least expensive 3 front + 2 rear leveling kits I could locate ($90). I didn’t choose the cheapest option because I needed a sturdy piece of metal and the rear blocks didn’t seem to be of high quality. Additionally, I didn’t feel the need to invest in anything pricey because they are all identical.
If you read all the way through, you’ll also see the YouTube video I made for this product.
Step 1. Jack & Remove Front Wheels
2016 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off-Road is the model of my truck. The vehicle has never had its suspension upgraded, so I’m interested to see how well this package performs.
I choose one of the three 3 front + 2 rear leveling kits that I could for only $90 on Amazon. The back blocks didn’t seem to be of high quality, and I needed a substantial piece of metal, which is why I didn’t choose the cheapest option. I also didn’t see the need to purchase anything pricey because they all appear to be the same.
The YouTube video I made for this product is also included if you read all the way to the end.
Step 2. Remove Coilover Assembly
The one in the back is the trickiest, and since there isn’t much room, I’ve found it works best to use a 14mm ratcheting wrench. The middle nut on the coilover’s top should not be adjusted.
It is also necessary to remove a sizable bolt and 19mm nut that are located on the coilover’s bottom end.
Do not worry about getting the bolt out at this point; just remove the nut. In order to reuse it, keep all of the coilover’s hardware.
Step 3. Disconnect UCA & Swaybar End Link
Your ABS wire is held in place by a 10mm bolt that is located on top of the upper control arm. Allow the ABS wire and bracket to hang by removing the bolt. To prevent losing or misusing the hardware, I try to always put it back where it belongs.
A 12mm bolt is then used to secure the brake line to the spindle. Additionally, that bolt needs to be taken out, and in order to remove the bracket from its place, you will need to lift it up because a small metal tab is what keeps it in place.
Due to the way it resembles the small parapet surrounding it, the ball joint nut is known as a castle nut. The cotter pin travels through these tiny spaces.
You must first pull out the end of the cotter pin that is stuck in the parapet before pulling out the entire lengthy section that is lodged through the bolt.
The next step is to hammer your spindle until it drops down and rests on top of the loosening castle nut, stopping it from totally springing loose.
To prevent the entire system from failing while you continue to undo the castle nut, place a floor jack under the lower control arm.
Be careful because once it is released, the upper control arm will spring upward.
To make it simpler to remove the coilover, you must now remove the sway bar. You should take out the higher section that the arrow is pointing at. The nut must be removed using a 17mm. You will need a 6mm hex head to insert into the end of the ball joint shaft if the shaft is rotating in order to stop it from moving.
Then, perhaps a few hammer blows to help it loosen and move through the spindle. To lift the sway bar and move it out of the way, you must do this on both sides.
Step 4. Remove Coilover & Install Spacer
It’s time to take the coilover out of the car at this point. Start by simply removing the bottom bolt that was keeping the coilover in place while you were working on it.
Then it need to have full freedom to wriggle out. To best suit your needs, the spindle may occasionally need to be moved.
The coilover should be placed on top of the black spacer. Screw the three nuts down over the new spacer onto the studs using the factory hardware. The three studs can be secured so that they do not come free by applying a little amount of blue Loctite on them.
Tighten the 14mm nuts to the recommended manufacturer torque of 47 pound-feet (lb-ft) I accomplished this by putting the coilover’s base into my vice to keep it stationary while I used my torque wrench to tighten the nuts.
Step 5. Re-Install Coilover & Connect UCA
We need to put everything back together now that the spacer is fastened to the coilover’s top. Reinstalling the coilover is the first step in doing this. The coilover can only be installed in one way. There are two possible alignments for the eyelet due to the slot on the bottom controls arm, however there is only one correct alignment for the bolt hole locations on top.
In this arrangement, the coilover should be positioned so that it slides into the lower control arm’s slot and that the factory stud and nut protrudes straight out. To get extra space, you might need to lift the sway bar out of the way. If you have a friend nearby, having them use a 2X4 to push down on the lower control arm will really aid you in getting the coilover and spacer into position.
It’s a good idea to slip the lower coilover bolt back in while the 2X4 is still in position and loosely tighten the new bolts through the top hat and into the new spacer.
Use the lock washer and flat washer that are provided, and if you want to be extra cautious, add some more blue Loctite. The lower bolt should be tightened to 61 lb-ft, and the top three bolts should be tightened to 47 lb-ft.
I like to lift the lower control arm with the floor jack from beneath to make it easier for the upper control arm’s ball joint to move through the spindle.
The factory castle nut can then be reinstalled on the ball joint. Make a note of the location of the hole on the threaded shaft of the ball joint so you know where to place the cotter pin.
To reveal the hole for the cotter pin, tighten the castle nut to 81 lb-ft with the 19mm and then a little bit more as necessary.
If you finished the other side, now is a good time to reinstall the sway bar and tighten the 17mm nut to 52 lb-ft.
Make sure to insert the small tab from the brake line bracket into the hole before tightening the 12mm bolt to 9 lb-ft. You can also tighten the 10mm bolt for the ABS line that is mounted on top of the UCA to 9 lb-ft.
Disconnecting the Rear Suspension
You must be able to separate the axle and leaf spring in order to insert the spacer between them. There are several methods for doing this. I decided to lift the truck’s body higher to separate them while supporting the axle with some jack stands. Only floor jacks and tall jack stands are necessary for this.
Remove the tires, lower the vehicle onto some smaller jack stands, and that will aid when you need to lift the body of the vehicle if you don’t have a tall floor jack and jack stands.
Step 6. Remove U-Bolts
The four 19mm U-bolt nuts that are placed beneath the axle cradle can be started to be removed once the car is on the jack stands. As this is a typical location for dirt to gather, be sure to use eye protection.
Each nut must to have a washer beneath it. Lowering the cradle off of the u-bolts is possible when the nuts and washers have been taken off. Lift the U-bolts up and over the leaf springs to remove them. Avoid contacting the brake lines at all costs.
The bump stop is situated on top of the leaf springs. You risk knocking them off by accident as you remove the U-bolts. They feature a little hole on the bottom that fits over the center pin of the axle, so don’t worrythey are quite simple to reinstall.
Take note of how the U-bolts pass over the bump stop’s metal portion as well. When installing the new ones, you must carry out this step.
Step 7. Remove Shock Bolt & Separate Leaf from Axle
The 17mm lower shock mount bolt can now be removed after the U-bolts and cradle have been taken off.
I also advise taking out the 12mm brake line bracket bolt (these are the red arrows). I advise removing the brake line bracket since doing so will lessen the risk of the brake lines straining when the car is raised.
The vehicle’s body and frame should now be raised in order to separate the leaf springs from the axle. As a result, you will have enough space to insert a spacer between them and receive a rear raise.
You need a tall floor jack to accomplish this. Ours was positioned on the truck’s receiver hitch. Lift the truck’s back slightly while keeping an eye on the brake lines to make sure they are not being overly compressed. Although the emergency brake lines did become a little congested, the installation was unaffected.
Keep in mind that the leaf spring has a little centering pin sticking out of the bottom of it, and there is a hole for that pin in the middle of the leaf spring perch on the axle.
Step 8. Install Rear Spacer Block
You will see a centering pin, similar to the ones on leaf springs, on the bottom of the spacer, and a hole, similar to the perch, on the top of the spacer. You may slide the spacer in once you’ve raised the truck to make a space big enough for it to fit between the leaf springs and axle. Make sure the spacer’s centering pin lands in the leaf spring perch’s hole.
If you choose, you can work on one side at a time, but you will still need to unbolt the U-bolts on both sides to create the slack necessary to separate the truck from the axle.
After installing both spacers into the axle, you can lower the truck again and position the leaf spring centering pins so that they fit into the spacers’ corresponding holes. This was a little challenging since occasionally things don’t exactly line up when you lower the vehicle onto the axle. One half was easy to insert while the other required some effort to put back together. In the end, the pins aligned after we used a pry bar to push against the leaf spring and the wheel to force it inward.
Step 9. Install New U-Bolts
When the truck is on the axle, you can slip the longer U-bolts provided next to the axle over the top of the leaf springs, being careful not to snag the brake lines in the process. You can reassemble the kit using the flat washers, lock washers, and replacement nuts that were included.
Make sure the bump stops are in position, the U-bolts are over the top and secured by the small clips before you begin zipping everything together. Make sure to uniformly tighten the U-bolts while tightening them in a crossing pattern. Additionally, check to see that the cradle is level and not noticeably higher in the front or back. It ought to be as level as is practical. The 19mm U-bolt nuts should be tightened to 52 lb-ft.
If you intend to take your truck off-road, we do suggest getting separate rear shocks because the factory shocks are not long enough to be used with this package.
Can I put a leveling kit together on my own?
Today, aftermarket leveling kits are the most often used suspension upgrade for 4x4s, and for good reason. They are a straightforward, low-cost, and simple to undo alteration that can enhance the 44’s appearance and functionality. If you’re anything like the majority of 44 fans, you probably can’t abide leaving anything unattended. Driving a 44 in its factory configuration looks impossible. However, you probably don’t want to dramatically modify your daily driver’s comfortable factory ride or reduce its handling, performance, or dependability. If you fit this description, a leveling kit is ideal for you.
Almost always, stock 4x4s have a raked stance. The front end of a 44 is purposefully lowered by OE car manufacturers to give it a more wedge-like appearance. The vehicle’s wind resistance is reduced thanks to the nose-down position, which improves fuel efficiency. The purpose of leveling kits is to enhance the ground clearance of your 44 and level out the uneven stance. Most of the time, the minor rise will permit larger tires. A leveling system can improve both on- and off-road handling when used with premium aftermarket shocks. With all these wonderful advantages, it’s simple to understand why leveling kits are so well-liked. More widespread acclaim raises questions. For those considering installing a suspension leveling kit on your 44, we’ve listed the most frequently asked questions and their respective responses.
Because they require fewer parts, suspension leveling kits are much less expensive than full lift kits. The simplest leveling systems consist of just two spacers and some hardware, like this Daystar kit for a 20152018 Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon.
Why Are Leveling Kits So Inexpensive?
For various reasons, leveling kits are much less expensive than lift kits. The main justification is that leveling the suspension simply requires fewer parts than lifting a car three or more inches does. A large number of lowering brackets and other parts are frequently needed for complete lift kits and systems in order for the steering and drivetrain of a 44 to operate properly. The wheel travel is typically unaffected by the cheapest leveling systems. They merely raised the 44’s riding height a little.
Should I Just Get The Cheapest Leveling Kit?
Numerous items could be the subject of the same inquiry. Should you get the cheapest engagement ring, tires, plane, or parachute? Despite the fact that some of these things could be fatal, picking the best leveling kit will rely on how you want to utilize your 44. You get what you pay for with everything, of course. The cheapest leveling kits will work just fine if all you want to do is drive around in a 44 with a level stance. You’ll probably want a little more complicated and expensive leveling kit if off-road performance and handling are vital.
The vehicle being leveled will normally determine how much lift a leveling kit delivers. To sit level, some 4x4s require a greater front lift than others. Some leveling kits are even movable, allowing you to change the suspension for your preferred ride height.
How Much Lift Will A Leveling Kit Provide?
The vehicle model that is being leveled often determines how much lift a leveling kit offers. Different car types have stances with varying levels of rake. To achieve a level stance, some 4x4s require a little bit more lift than others. Most leveling kits boost surfaces by 1-2.5 inches. A leveling kit might not be for you if you have a specific tire size and lift height in mind. If so, you might want to think about a full lift system.
How Big Of A Tire Can I Fit With A Leveling Kit?
Your options for tire size are constrained because the majority of leveling kits only provide 1-2.5 inches of elevation. In general, a tire that is one to two sizes larger than standard should fit. For some situations, a tire up to three or four sizes larger than standard may be used. The greatest tire size that is practical will depend on how you intend to operate the car, how much tire rub you can tolerate, and how much fender trimming you are willing to do. With a leveling system and the appropriate tire size, for instance, a street-driven 44 may never experience tire rub. When the sway bars are removed and the suspension is articulated, that same setup may experience excruciating tire rub off-road. The majority of leveling kit manufacturers include tire size recommendations, and some even suggest wheel backspacing.
Your 44’s off-road performance will increase if the shocks are upgraded. New performance shocks are a component of several leveling kits. If you want to drive in this manner and your factory shocks are worn out, you should replace them when you install a suspension leveling kit.
Do I Need New Shocks?
Not every leveling kit calls for brand-new shocks. The factory shocks are frequently kept in the least costly kits. However, you should consider new shocks obligatory with the installation of a suspension leveling kit if your original shocks have 20,000 miles or more on them, you want to take the car off-road, or if you drive aggressively. Performance shocks, which will aid in controlling the heavier, bigger diameter tires over uneven terrain, are included in certain high-end leveling kits. Bump stops may need to be relocated in order to use leveling kits with certain applications so that the stock shocks don’t bottom out and sustain damage. The usage of spacers on various Toyota 4x4s’ factory front struts frequently results in issues like these.
Can I Use Shock Extenders With My Leveling Kit?
If your car already has better than stock shocks, or if your factory shocks are still in good condition and you want to spend the majority of your time on the street, you may be able to keep them with the help of shock extenders. Not all applications can employ shock extenders, but if money is short, you can use them to save a little. Some inexpensive leveling kits come with shock extenders and have optional shocks. If you choose with the extenders, you may always upgrade to better shocks when your budget allows in the future.
The majority of leveling kits are missing components for the rear suspension. Some leveling kits, nevertheless, come with premium front and rear shocks. When driving vigorously off-road, larger diameter shocks with reservoirs help limit suspension movement and better dissipate heat.
Will My 44 Need An Alignment After Installation Of A Leveling Kit?
Yes, after installing a leveling kit, your 44 will require an alignment. All IFS 4x4s require a complete alignment, although solid-axle 4x4s can usually get by with only adjusting the draglink to center the steering wheel. For optimal handling and road etiquette, certain solid-axle 4x4s also need caster adjustment. The necessary parts are included in a lot of leveling kits. Poor handling qualities and early tire wear will result from improper alignment work.
Do I Need To Lift The Rear Too?
The rear suspension can be changed in more sophisticated leveling kits to boost performance, but most don’t. A leveling kit’s aim would be somewhat defeated by raising the rear suspension. Usually, leveling systems that are intended to enhance off-road performance include premium front and rear shocks. These shocks might have reservoirs to help with heat dissipation, and they might even have external adjustment knobs so you can fine-tune them for your desired ride no matter the surface.
The coil spacers’ construction material is not particularly significant. One may argue that polyurethane coil spacers help the frame and cab to a lesser extent by absorbing some of the harshness from the front suspension. Nevertheless, there wouldn’t be much of a riding difference between spacers made of steel, aluminum, and polyurethane.
Are Polyurethane Coil Spacers Better Than Steel Or Aluminum?
There actually isn’t a material that performs better than another when it comes to coil spacers, which are used to separate the coil from the frame and level the vehicle’s stance. One may argue, however, that polyurethane spacers will aid to significantly muffle chassis noise brought on by bumpy roads and washboard trails. A small bit of the harshness that an aluminum or steel coil spacer would transfer to the frame and 44 cab may be absorbed by the polyurethane’s modest flex. Whether or not you have spacers, the factory rubber coil isolator typically accomplishes this task. Steel, aluminum, and polyurethane coil spacers are barely different in terms of roughness. Regarding durability, it’s difficult to argue against the fact that polyurethane is immune to all major road chemicals and vehicle fluids, whereas a steel or aluminum spacer might rust.