This article describes how to install factory fog lights on a second-generation HL. You might be able to use this write-up to install them on other gens since it should be quite similar to a 1st gen and 3rd gen. Although I’m not positive for sure, I believe that all Highlanders should come pre-wired with bulb sockets for fog lights. Before placing an order, double-check.
REMOVING THE AIRBAG ON THE STEERING WHEEL IS REQUIRED FOR THIS, SO PROCEED WITH CAUTION AND AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
Just below your headlights, the pre-wired fog light harness will be taped up. It will appear as shown. Before moving forward, make sure they are present!
driving side
Driver’s side:
What you must purchase:
For example, my headlight stalk had auto drl without a fog switch, therefore I had to acquire a stalk with both an auto drl and a fog light switch because there are a few different layouts available.
Check with them as well in case you can discover these things in a pick-and-pull in your neighborhood.
The negative battery terminal must be removed first, and it must be left unhooked until the steering wheel has been reinstalled. To remove the air bag, you must wait 90 seconds after removing the negative battery terminal, according to the Toyota manual. Just to be safe, I waited for approximately 30 minutes.
On either side of the steering wheel, there is a t30 screw. To access the T30 screw, remove the plastic covers using a panel popper. To avoid damaging the plastic tabs holding the T30 screws in place, simply unscrew them all the way.
On the air bag’s back. It is connected with a red and black harness. To remove these wires, pull up the yellow tab on top of the harness using a flat head screwdriver. Additionally, there is a brown wire for your horn that you may remove by pulling on it at the bottom. Next Take off the white plug from the clock spring’s top.
There must be a 19mm socket. If you don’t have an impact wrench, you can use a little breaker bar instead. I used my impact wrench.
To make sure the steering wheel is aligned properly when you go to put it back on, you must draw a line on the steering shaft and the wheel. The steering wheel and shaft have spines, so after the bolt is removed, they won’t move.
When you need to exit the vehicle, simply pull up on the seat while wriggling the steering wheel, and it will fall off.
The surround must be removed by removing the two screws. Pull the two sections away from one another to remove the snaps that were keeping it together.
from The clock spring is seen here. Three tabs attaching it to the headlight and wiper stalks keep it in place. It will easily come off if you just lift up on those tabs.
Remove each plug from the wiper stalk, headlight, and clock spring. There is no concern that you will confuse them because they are part-specific. To remove the big yellow plug, lift up on the tab with a flat head screwdriver when it is on the opposite side of the wires.
Using the same image, you can see a metal tab holding the steering-wheel stalk’s headlight and wiper stalks. To get the stalk out, that needs to be squeezed.
I held it with a set of vice grips so I could wriggle it off with both hands.
The stalks for the wiper and headlight click together. Simply push in the tab on the wiper stalk, and the wipers will separate.
There is a slot where it fits down when you are reinstalling it, making it difficult to misalign it.
All that’s left to do is reassemble everything.
Although there’s really no other way to describe how to accomplish it, I detest articles that advise readers to simply reverse the process.
Reattach each and every wire harness “make sure they’re all linked properly! After everything is closed up, you don’t want to have to go back in to check in case something is broken.”
Verify that everything is in working order and that when the fog lights are turned on, the instrument cluster displays the fog light symbol.
The inside fender plastics on both sides must be pulled back. You will need to remove a number of bolts and push tabs in order to accomplish this. Photos of the driver’s side are shown here. Nearly identical on the passenger side.
You now need to find the fog light harnesses that were shown in the thread’s opening images. To get additional light, it’s best to open the hood.
You can feel them taped to another harness if you reach your palm up behind the fascia. To release them from the tape and allow them to fall, you only need to give them a small tug. Keep in mind that this is where they are. Therefore, before you start yanking on items, identify them.
Next, take off the finishes for the fog lights. They are contained by tiny tabs. To remove the tabs, simply press them in.
To mount the fog lights, there are 2 screw holes on either side of the hole.
Although finishers with the fog light hole already cut out are available, I cut the holes out of the current finishers to keep costs as low as feasible.
Once I took the finishes off, I discovered one difference: they are different.
Cut the finisher’s back with a hacksaw. It took some time to perfect this. You should make an incision of at least an inch through the finisher’s back.
In This Article...
Can you add fog lights to a vehicle that doesn’t have them?
It’s more difficult to install fog lights on a car that doesn’t already have them than to replace broken ones. The wiring will need to be added by you, and you might need to drill a hole for the lights. Fortunately, most cars today come equipped with fog lights.
Wires for the on/off switch must first be run into the vehicle. The wires will travel through the hood and into the car’s cabin. You can already run these wires via a hole in the majority of vehicles. You might have to drill a small hole yourself if there is no available space.
Can aftermarket fog lights be installed?
You might be able to see in bad weather for the first time if you swap out your standard fog lights for aftermarket ones. However, you are not restricted to mounting them as fog lights. For greater illumination and a more intimidating appearance, you can put these lights in other locations on your car. Choosing the proper brightness and appearance are key to finding the right lights. Look at the aftermarket fog lights for your car below.
How much does it cost to upgrade a car’s fog lights?
A vehicle’s auxiliary lighting system includes fog lights, which are often mounted below the main headlights. Fog lights are useful during times of heavy fog or precipitation, while the primary headlights assist you in seeing the road in normal circumstances.
and talk about things like location and professional fees that affect installation costs. In addition, we’ll give you a bonus suggestion for saving money when buying a fog light. Now let’s get into the specifics.
Based on their experiences, several car owners discussed fog light installation costs on numerous internet forums. They said that, taking into account the typical cost of installing a fog light, one would wind up shelling out between $180 and $255.
How Much Is a Fog Light Bulb?
You may get a fog lamp for about $15 and $35, according to numerous eCommerce websites and neighborhood stores. The supplier, brand, body type, intensity, and product fit may all affect the price, though.
How Much Is Fog Light Installation?
Typically, the installation fee ranges from $40 to $60 if you have a mechanic change your fog light bulb at an auto repair shop. According to Element Owners Club, the price of a fog light with installation by the dealer might run you anywhere from $149 to $500.
If you decide to replace the fog lights rather than purchase a new set, the cost may be as low as $100 to $150.
Why do installation fees for fog lights vary so widely? Examine the elements listed below that have an impact on installation costs.
Can I connect my headlights and fog lights?
For a number of reasons, I wouldn’t connect the foglights to the headlight circuit:
1) Too much current could break a fuse.
2) If the original fuse is changed to prevent it from blowing when both the highlights and the fog lights are on, the additional current pull could melt or burn the headlight wire harness.
3) A diagnostic issue code may be generated by an onboard “Big Brother” if the headlight circuits are drawing too much current.
The switch on the dash switches on the OEM foglights. The switch is connected to the front control module (FCM), which in turn controls a relay, which supplies power to the OEM foglights. The 20 amp fuse (fuse #7) is for the pair of foglights.
A #14 or #12 AWG stranded wire should be run through an in-line fuse (20A) to one contact of the relay and continued along the same size wire to the foglights as a minimum. This wire should also be connected to an independent power source in the IPM (front fuse/relay box; fuse #7 position should be available). One side of the relay’s coil should be connected to a low beam headlight wire (WT/OR on the left or OR/WT on the right) for control, and the other side should be grounded. The control circuit can be wired with #18 or #22 AWG stranded wire as the relay’s coil uses little current.
H16 bulb: what is it?
The H9/H11 bulb family includes the H16 automotive light bulb, which is very similar to the H8, H9, H11, and H15 bulbs. It is distinguished by having three metal tabs evenly placed around the base to lock it in place, a standard right-angled style connection input base, and a sizable rubber o-ring beneath the metal tabs.
The wattage levels that they operate at and whether or not they have a painted-on reflector cover at the top of the glass tube make up the largest differences between H8, H9, H11, and H16. The H11 is more frequently used in headlights than the H16 is in fog lights. As a result, you’ll encounter H11 bulbs that resemble H16 bulbs almost exactly but with greater wattages and somewhat different pin configurations. However, with a little finagling, you could change an H16 and H11 around if you really wanted to.
Where does the confusion between H16 and 5202 bulbs originate? First off, there weren’t many vehicles in America that used an H16 bulb until quite recently. Then, there was probably some confusion after an uninformed light bulb maker in Asia decided one day that they didn’t know what a true H16 bulb was. They began classified 5202 light bulbs as H16, 5202, 9009, etc. as a result of a series of events. This is incorrect! You will never come across an H16 OEM bulb that resembles a 5202 from Sylvania, Philips, or another manufacturer. Here are a few well-liked LED variations of these many bulbs:
Which fog light manufacturer is best?
The Top 14 Car or Truck Fog Lights
- Kit for Blazer Baja Lights.
- LED off-road lights from Anzo with Rugged Vision.
- Yellow Lens Fog Lights Kit from Pentair.
- Fog Light Kit for Warn.
- Kit for a Hella Micro FF fog light.
- Blue halo rings around universal projector-style fog lights.
- Blazer Round Projector Fog Lights in Ultra White.
- Ion 540 Series Fog Lights by PIAA.
Where are fog lights mounted?
Adding fog and/or driving lights to your pickup can be a safer alternative to the factory-installed lamps, which are frequently more decorative than practical.
The optimal place for fog lights to be installed is inside, on, or below the bumper, 10 to 24 inches above the ground, or anywhere below the center of the headlights.
When fog lights are placed in that manner, their beams may just barely overlap low-beam headlights.
Additionally, fog lights need to be placed roughly 24 inches apart with their cut-off lines pointed roughly in the center of the low-beam headlight pattern.
Parking the vehicle 25 feet away from a wall on a level area will allow you to aim the lights most effectively.
Calculate the distance between the ground and the fog light’s center. Then mark the wall horizontally at that height. To illustrate, see.
Now adjust the lights such that at a distance of 25 feet, with the lamp facing straight ahead, the top of the fog beam pattern is approximately 4 inches below the lamp center.
Another piece of advice: By using the light’s “hot spot as the alignment point, driving lights can be adjusted similarly. Adjust the driving light’s hot spot so that it is 1.5 inches or less below the centerline mark on the wall.