Dash kit: A dash kit consists of all the brackets and trim pieces required to install a new radio in your dash opening while maintaining a tidy factory appearance.
Wiring harness: A wiring harness connects your new radio to the wiring in your car. Connect one end of the harness to the connector you disconnected from the factory radio, then splice its wires to the wiring of your new radio.
An antenna adapter connects your new radio’s standard Motorola antenna input to the plug on the antenna cord in your car.
Integration module: A wiring harness and an integration module enable communication between your new radio and the factory electronics in your car. Connect the other end of the wiring harness to the connector you removed from the factory radio after splicing the module’s wires to the wires of your new radio.
Steering wheel control (SWC) adapter: A steering wheel control (SWC) adapter connects your new radio to the steering wheel audio controls that came with your car. In most cases, you’ll need to set up the adapter and connect wires in order for it to function with your new radio.
Speaker Wiring Harness: Speaker wiring harnesses link your new speakers to the stock speaker jacks in your car.
Speaker Bracket: Speaker brackets allow you to attach aftermarket speakers by bolting into your vehicle’s factory mounting points.
In This Article...
Bluetooth is it available in the 2007 Toyota Yaris?
The 2007 Toyota Yaris achieves great gas mileage because to its compact and effective engine. The car’s sound has an auxiliary input and supports MP3 and WMA CDs.
The Bad
The 2007 Toyota Yaris makes significant compromises to attain its incredibly low price, including being deficient in safety-tech features like antilock brakes, traction control, and side air bags. There aren’t many in-cabin amenities.
The Bottom Line
The 2007 Toyota Yaris is practical for short commutes and city errands but has few other uses. Although good fuel efficiency is excellent, this small car can easily become unruly on bad roads.
But this car is also intended to be extremely inexpensive. The base price of our test vehicle, a three-door hatchback (sedan models are also offered), is $10,950. Unfortunately, a car made for this low-end market won’t offer much entertainment for gadget aficionados. Our Yaris came with the $1,290 Power Package, which also provided a respectable audio system with an auxiliary input line and an MP3/WMA single-CD slot.
The 2007 Toyota Yaris’ engine is its most technologically advanced component, with the rest of the powertrain being relatively basic. Toyota’s VVT-I intelligent variable valve timing and electronic throttle control are used in the 1.5-liter four-cylinder engine. The four-speed automatic is just as uninteresting as the five-speed manual in terms of performance. To keep the price as low as possible, active safety features like traction control and even antilock brakes are also forgone.
The 2007 Toyota Yaris doesn’t have many in-cabin amenities for its pricing range. Toyota has however prevented the interior from appearing shoddy. The front seats are manually adjustable, and the upholstery is soft but durable. The dashboard’s fit and finish appear to be excellent, and the materials offer a pleasant texture. However, a low-cost construction means less sound insulation, as evidenced by the 73 decibels we measured during our sound-level check.
Toyota arranges the A/C and vent controls in the Yaris in an intriguing way.
What little there is of the instrument cluster is located in the center of the dashboard. Although this configuration makes it more difficult to keep an eye on the speedometer, this car doesn’t move very quickly. The speedometer has a lovely electroluminescent appearance, and to its right is a small LCD that shows the fuel level and the distance traveled. These are wonderful additions to a low-end vehicle.
At the top of the stack, a double-DIN slot is occupied by the stereo. Interestingly, according to the spec sheets, the Yaris only comes equipped for a stereo without the Power Package, so anticipate a big hole in the dash. Additionally, this dash is quite aftermarket-friendly and the right size for some upscale head sets. Our test car’s radio has a single CD slot that could play MP3 and WMA CDs. The controls make it simple to move between songs and folders, and the display shows ID3-tag data. Behind the shifter, there is an auxiliary jack for an MP3 player.
On the floor next to the stick shift are a light-kit button and an auxiliary stereo input.
Due to the high seating position and four speakers that are placed close to the floor, the audio quality in the 2007 Toyota Yaris is not poor. With the music rising from below, no seat will be blasted by a single speaker as a result of this design. Even at ordinary volumes, there is some clarity but it is not really immersive. Higher volumes quickly deteriorate the quality.
As expected, the Yaris does not include voice control, Bluetooth, or GPS. However, Toyota has cleverly inserted odd-shaped compartments all around the vehicle to fill the empty space created by the absence of electronics. It has a compartment above the glove box in addition to a glove box. Above and below the steering wheel, as well as by the driver’s left knee in the lower dash, are additional compartments of a comparable size. On either side of the stack, there are additional tiny storage spaces.
The Yaris has a few strange storage spaces, like this peculiar door behind the steering wheel.
The hatchback Yaris’ cargo space demonstrates this preference for storage. There is room for a few grocery bags when the back seats are folded down. However, when these seats are folded flat, the cargo space enlarges, which is advantageous because the seats don’t provide much space for passengers. Despite the front seats being rather far forward, there is not much room for legs in the back.
One other intriguing addition was a $275 interior-illumination package that arrived with our test Yaris. A few blue LEDs arranged in a pan just in front of the stick make up this kit. Although the effect is straightforward, it’s cool.
For those who enjoy tearing automobiles around, the 2007 Toyota Yaris will be entertaining thanks to its straightforward five-speed manual transmission and tiny size. Although the Yaris’ engine isn’t as quick as the one in the 2007 Honda Fit, it can still be driven in an enjoyable way with superb rev control.
The most sophisticated component of the Yaris is its 1.5-liter four-cylinder engine, which features double overhead cams and Toyota’s electronically regulated variable valve timing. Even yet, it has a meager 4,200 rpm output of 106 horsepower and 103 pound-feet of torque, so drivers must rev the engine higher than in other vehicles before attempting to accelerate from a stop. With this engine, hill startsa specialty of our San Francisco testing groundsare very difficult.
Once in motion, this engine adequately moves the 2007 Toyota Yaris. When entering a freeway, we had no trouble reaching 80 mph, and when approaching freeway hills, aggressive use of the transmission helped us maintain our pace. It takes some getting acclimated to the transmission’s gear ratios: Second gear should take over at about 35 mph after first gear is kept for a longer period of time than in most cars, up to about 15 mph. Even at 55 mph, third gear will hold up. Due to the engine’s low torque, these ratios don’t have a lot of overlap. Naturally, this means that torque steer is not present.
For a car in this class, the Yaris’ suspension does a good job of damping out and riding over potholes, and it feels solid enough in turns. It features a straightforward torsion beam in the back and MacPherson struts up front. The Yaris can’t be pushed too hard in turns because it doesn’t have traction control or other available roadholding technology.
The Yaris’ small engine’s advantage is its fuel efficiency, which the EPA rates at 34 mpg in the city and 40 mpg on the highway. In our more haphazard testing, we recorded 31 mpg while combining freeway and city driving. The Yaris is rated as ULEV-2/Bin 5 due to its low emissions.
In terms of safety technology, the 2007 Toyota Yaris doesn’t provide much beyond front air bags and side-impact door beams. The NHTSA awarded it a reasonable four stars for front collision and rollovers based on these factors as well as the body design. It only receives three stars for side impacts, most likely as a result of the absence of side air bags.
In terms of roadholding technologies, the Yaris hatchback is relatively basic. Antilock brakes and traction control are not standard or optional features. The top upgrade option for the sedan variant does contain electronic brake force distribution and antilock brakes.
Toyota offers a three-year/36,000-mile comprehensive warranty and a five-year/60,000-mile powertrain warranty for the 2007 Yaris. With unlimited mileage, corrosion protection is provided for five years.
Is a dash kit required to install a radio?
Dash Kit for a Specific Vehicle You may physically mount a new radio in place so that it fits snugly and is visually appealing by using the proper-sized hardware. If you are switching from a single DIN unit to a double DIN unit, a dash kit is essential (or vice versa).
How can I make a phone connection with my 2007 Toyota Yaris?
How to Install Bluetooth in a Toyota
- Make sure your mobile device has Bluetooth turned on.
- Open the Menu menu on your Entune multimedia system, choose Setup, and then select Bluetooth.
- Choose your Toyota Entune system from the Bluetooth menu on your mobile device.
- The Toyota Entune system and your mobile device are now Bluetooth-enabled.
Is the 2007 Toyota Yaris a reliable vehicle?
Both a hatchback and a sedan are available for the Yaris. Both will offer very comfortable rides and outstanding fuel economy, but at their limits, the handling is sloppy and harsh. Although the engine is noisy at high revs, acceleration is adequate. Our hatchback’s stopping distances were incredibly long because it was not ABS-equipped.
Is a wiring harness required for an aftermarket radio?
Basics of installing a car audio
We’ll walk you through setting up a new car stereo in this article. We’ll discuss:
- How to take out the original stereo
- What you need to know to properly attach the new receiver in terms of wiring
- Installing a new car radio
Before starting the installation, please read over these instructions so you’ll know what to expect.
Get your toolbox
To complete the task, you’ll need a few simple tools. The most typical tools are a few screwdrivers and a wrench or socket set for the battery cable. Additionally, you’ll require some wire strippers, electrical tape, and a method for connecting the wiring, which we’ll explain later. A panel removal tool is one of the more essential pieces of equipment you’ll require to properly remove the dash panels without damaging the surfaces or breaking anything.
Watch this video for a step-by-step overview of a basic car stereo installation
Check out this video of one of our senior advisors installing a stereo if you prefer a more visual explanation. From beginning to end, he guides you through the procedure and offers some professional advice along the way.
Removing the factory stereo
You must first remove the old audio from your car before installing the new one. It would be simple to skip over the removal procedures and forget about them. But take your time! Since you’ll be doing this in reverse to install a new stereo, you’ll want to be sure you recall the order of these steps.
To avoid accidently short-circuiting something, first engage the parking brake and unplug the negative line from the car battery.
Most frequently, one of the following mounting options will be used for your OEM stereo:
- fastened with spring clips in a metal mounting sleeve
- brackets that are bolted to the dash
- attached to a system of rails inside the dashboard
Removing a spring-clip mounted radio
You’ll need a pair of DIN tools if the stereo is fastened to the wall with spring clips. When you hear a click, the DIN tools are properly inserted into the holes on either side of the unit. The tools are used to remove the spring clips and to hook onto the stereo’s sides so you can remove it with ease. Pull the stereo out of the dash after slightly separating the tools.
Removing a stereo that’s bolted in place
Occasionally, one or more dash trim panels must be removed in order to reach the audio. You might need to locate and remove bolts to disassemble other panel components, or you might need to (carefully) peel the plastic trim away from the dash (which is frequently held in place by hidden pressure clips). Once you have accessed the stock stereo, the screws holding the radio to the dash should be visible. Pull the stereo out of the dash after removing the screws.
Removing a stereo attached to a rail system
Some automakers fix the factory radio to a railing inside the dash. The radio can be easily removed from the rail when the spring clips or bolts have been released. This rail may also need to be removed since it occasionally gets in the way of a new radio’s chassis. Remember that once this is finished, the factory radio frequently cannot be installed again.
Stereos for older cars
Before the early 1980s, many American cars had “shaft-style” stereos that were fastened to the dash using nuts and washers on the right and left knobs. The dash must be removed in order to install a stereo in the shaft design. The challenging part is getting it into place because your car’s wiring, heater controls, and ductwork can be in the way. RetroSound, one of our suppliers, offers a number of classic shaft-style radios with contemporary features included in and a flexible mounting system.
Unplugging the factory stereo
There should be at least one plastic wiring harness behind the stereo opening if your car has (or formerly had) a factory stereo or was pre-wired with a “stereo prep” package. The speakers and the stereo are connected to the electrical system of your car by this plug. To finish the removal process, unhook the antenna as well as the OEM stereo from the wiring harnesses.
It’s time to concentrate on the new radio now that the old one is out of the way. That entails tying all the cables together before mounting the audio in the dash.
How to wire a car stereo
Typically, these harnesses come with a color-coded wiring diagram that shows how to connect the harness to your new audio. The owner’s manual for your new stereo will also provide a radio wiring schematic. Verify the automobile stereo wire colors that must be connected to the adapter harness by consulting the two diagrams. It’s convenient that you can make these connections away from the vehicle, on a desk, kitchen table, or workbench.
Options for connecting the wires
There are just a few ways to connect bare wires together when you need to. Please refrain from merely taping the wires together because soon the tape will dry out and come off, exposing the wires and making a short-circuit inevitable. The choices below will provide you with safe, enduring connections:
- Maximum current transfer is guaranteed by a permanent, professional connection made by soldering. You should insulate the soldered connection with heat-shrink tubing and a heat gun, which we highly advise. Because it is the most reliable and conductive connection for the wire, most purists choose this approach.
- Wires can be connected quickly and securely with a twist using Posi-ProductTM connectors, which can also be reused. Posi-Tap connectors are useful to have on hand for a variety of tasks, too. This is our go-to method for quickly establishing solid relationships.
- Crimping is quick and often easy. The majority of in-dash stereo wires are 18-gauge, but some employ stronger gauge power and ground wires. If you decide to crimp the wires together, make sure to use the right size crimp connection. Crimp connectors come in a variety of designs, such as bullet connectors, butt connectors, or crimp caps.
Power wires
Normally, it is ideal to connect the new stereo’s wire via the wiring harness, but if you must connect directly to the power source, you must understand the distinction between “switched” and “continuous” power:
- Only when the ignition is turned on does a switched power source come on. To ensure that your new stereo won’t drain your car’s battery when you turn off the engine, connect the primary (switched) power leadtypically a red wireto a switched power source.
- A continuous power source never turns off. To prevent your radio station presets, tone control presets, and clock settings from being lost each time you turn off the car, connect the memory leadtypically a yellow wireof your new stereo to a continuous power source.
Some high-powered stereos necessitate a direct constant power connection at the positive terminal of your car’s battery, though this is uncommon. This calls for a power wire of a thicker gauge, an in-line fuse (which is typically already there), and a ring terminal to attach the power wire to the battery clamp. In order to connect at the battery, you will need to route the power wire to the battery location, which is frequently via the vehicle firewall and into the engine compartment.
Speaker wires
For the standard 4-speaker system, car stereos include eight wires: a positive wire and a negative wire for the front left, front right, rear left, and rear right speakers, respectively. Some of them might not be utilized depending on the wiring setup in your car and the wiring harness adapter we provide.
Ground wire
In order to achieve optimum stereo performance and to stop unwanted noise, a solid ground connection is essential. Look for a raw, unpainted bolt or screw that makes contact with the bare metal of your car’s chassis if you are not using a special wire harness. The ground wire, which is almost often a black wire, is slid underneath the bolt by loosening it, then the bolt is tightened. Your stereo won’t work if your ground wire doesn’t make touch with bare metal. Your music may become unlistenable due to signal noise caused by a poor or sloppy ground connection.
In-dash videotapping into the parking brake wire
You must additionally attach a wire to your emergency/parking brake wire if your new audio has a touchscreen or visual monitor. When the parking brake is applied, a switch on this wire turns on the video monitor.
Mounting the stereo in the dash
You might need to remove the mounting brackets from the sides of the existing stereo if it was bolted into the dash and attach them to the sides of the new radio. More frequently than not, a mounting kit will be required to install the stereo.
Follow the instructions provided with the mounting kit if one is needed. Sometimes you attach the kit in the dash, then insert the metal mounting sleeve for the new stereo, if one is included. With the use of a screwdriver, bend the metal tabs on the metal sleeve into position to secure it. In other instances, you first attach the mounting kit to the new stereo before screwing both of them into the dash.
You will likely require a unique factory system wiring adaptor in order to install a new stereo if your car has an integrated stereo/climate control panel, an enhanced version of the original sound system (such a Bose or Harman Kardon update, for example), or both. You can use an adapter to connect a new stereo to your current speaker setup. When you purchase your new stereo from us, you’ll also receive it at a substantial discount.
With this integration package, select 2010 and later Ford Mustangs still have their factory LCD screen and touchscreen climate controls.
Hold the new stereo close to the opening once the dash opening is prepared. Plug the antenna cable in and connect the stereo wiring adapter to the wiring harness of the vehicle. You may also need to connect other items to the stereo’s rear, depending on the model you choose, like the Bluetooth microphone wire, a USB cable, steering wheel control interface, or an auxiliary input cable.
Check your work
Don’t fasten the stereo down just yet; instead, slide it into the dash opening. Check that the stereo is functioning properly by testing it first. While everything is still visible, an issue is simpler to solve.
If you disconnected any airbag warning plugs, make careful to reattach those before reconnecting the batteries. You’ll need to do this in order to test the stereo.
Power up and test each source (AM, FM, CD, USB, etc.). Once all speakers are operational, modify the balance and fader settings. Finish mounting the stereo in the dash and replacing any dash trim panel pieces that you removed once you are certain that it is wired and operating properly.