You must remove the caliper from the wheel hub because we are replacing both the rotors and the pads. You can remove the 12mm bolt holding your brake line on to allow the caliper more room.
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Step 4: Compress Brake Caliper Pistons
You must compress the caliper pistons in order for the new brake pads to reinstall over the new rotors. There are several ways to accomplish this, but we found this to be the simplest. Grab a set of clamps, then secure the factory-supplied brake pad. This will allow you plenty of area to work with while fitting the new pads onto the rotors and will compress the pistons into the caliper.
Step 5: Pull out the first spring (outside spring)
The calipers can either be set back on the rotors or left on the jack stand while you disassemble everything. Take a look at the internal spring holding the two caliper pins in place first. Take off this spring. You won’t need this because the new brake kit comes with two cotter pins for the caliper pins.
Step 10: Brake Pad inside caliperline up Disc Caliper Pins
You can insert one brake pad and then push in the caliper pins after greasing your brake pads and caliper pins. The caliper pins should not yet be fully inserted.
Step 11: Second Brake Pad, Pad Spreader Spring & Cotter Pins
Include the new pad spreader spring and the second brake pad. After that, insert the caliper pins into the pad spreader spring and both pads. Once the caliper pins are inserted, you can fasten the cotter pins to the top and bottom ends of the pins.
The pad spreader spring is the only component missing from this assembly. Use a needle nose to rotate the ends of the pads into place while also rotating the pad spring back into position.
Step 12: Rubber MalletKnock Off Factory Rotors
It will take some effort to get this one. Use the mallet of your choice to knock the rotor off. If a rubber mallet is ineffective, use a hammer or knock more forcefully around the rotor (with a pickle jar and a knife, for example). You run the danger of bending the rotors if you use a hammer. Try to use a rubber mallet if you intend to reuse these rotors.
What is the price of replacing the brakes on a Toyota 4Runner?
Depending on the type of brake pads chosen and the degree of harm your previous worn-out pads have done to other parts of your car, such the rotors, replacing the brake pads on a Toyota 4Runner can cost anywhere between $150 and $300 each axle.
When should I swap out my 4Runner’s brake pads?
Brake pads for the 2018 Toyota 4Runner typically last 30,000 to 70,000 miles, depending on your driving style. You’ll need to get an examination more frequently if you travel in heavy traffic and brake frequently.
How are brake pads checked on a Toyota 4Runner?
Once the wheel has been removed:
- Track down the brake pads. Turn your steering wheel until you can view your caliper’s back window if it has one. Alternately, you can just inspect the brake pads from the caliper’s top side.
- the thickness of the brake pads of your Toyota. Given the restricted space, measuring the thickness of your brake pads can be challenging, but a compass should be able to help. The brake pads must be replaced right away if the friction substance is less than 1/4 thick. They need to be replaced immediately if it’s less than 1/8 thick.
Can I just change my brake pads and leave the rotors alone?
You can definitely replace only the worn brake pads if they haven’t been damaged or thinned past the discard thickness.
It’s the rotor minimum thickness required by the rotor or car manufacturer.
The performance and long-term wear of the brake pads are influenced by the brake rotor and vice versa.
Typical wear patterns on old rotors include brake dust left behind from an old brake pad set.
The new brake pads may not therefore properly fit the old rotor. Due to this mismatch, the new brake pads may wear unevenly and generate noise and vibration (which will lead to premature brake pad replacement).
Additionally, keep in mind that an old, worn-out rotor can eventually require replacement. The time and money you think you are saving may not be as great as you imagined.
Resurfacing entails scraping a minute layer of material off the brake disc or rotor’s front and back surfaces.
By removing any grooves, pits, and remaining friction material from worn brake pads, this procedure makes a smooth surface for new brake pads to grab onto, allowing the new brake pads to wear down evenly.
How durable are Toyota brake rotors?
How durable are Toyota brake rotors? This largely relies on the rotor type, your driving technique, and the kind of vehicle you’re operating. Depending on the aforementioned considerations, Toyota rotors need to be replaced every 30,000 to 80,000 miles.
How can I tell if I need to replace my rotors?
- Brake pad quality: Contact with cheap, harsh brake pads or improperly placed brake pads will result in damage.
- Driving style and Environment: Driving in cities, mountains, or in harsh settings (like the scorching heat of the desert or the bitter cold of the winter) results in faster rotor wear rates.
- Car weight: Rotors and pads deteriorate more quickly the heavier the car or the more upgrades or alterations a vehicle has received.
- Axle position: With forward bias proportioning, the front axle normally carries more weight than the back. The front often wears rotors and brake pads more quickly than the rear because it carries a greater “load” when braking.
In its most basic form, stopping and slowing down a car involves braking rotors being pressed by brake pads, but it’s actually more complicated than that. Let’s examine the sequential operation of the entire system.
- The driver presses the brake pedal in an effort to bring the vehicle to a stop.
- Brake fluid is forced out of the reservoir by a plunger in the master cylinder.
- The fluid travels to the wheels via stiff brake lines.
- The fluid is then transported into calipers by flexible brake lines.
- The brake pistons in the calipers are forced out by the fluid pressure.
- The backing plate of the brake pads is compressed by the pistons.
- Brake rotors and pads begin to rub against one another, with the pad linings pressing on the rotor surface from both the inside and the outside.
- The car slows down or comes to a stop as a result of the friction.
- The brake rotors and pads heat up to a high degree as a lot of heat is produced.
The ABS (Anti-Lock Braking System), ASR (Anti-Slip Regulation), and ESP (Electronic Stability Program) systems in contemporary vehicles regulate the pressure of the brake fluid.
One of the most noticeable components of the entire brake system are the brake rotors. They are those metal discs attached on the wheel hubs that resemble a flying saucer and are seen just beyond the hub cap. They are often created by casting solid “blanks” made of special metal alloys, which must be resistant to wear and high temperatures, in molds; typically, cast iron and cast steel are used for this process. They are molded with internal cooling vanes in addition to the holes for the bolts that secure them to the axle. Depending on the vehicle and end usage they are intended for, they may then be specially machined to include slots and/or drilled holes.
The friction that results from the compression of brake pads against rotors generates heat and fumes that may become trapped inside the system. The least expensive alternative, solid rotors have a propensity to overheat. Comparatively, higher-quality rotors have a number of venting methods to reduce that heat. In addition to facilitating faster heat dissipation, drilling holes and milling slots into the surface that comes into contact with the brake pads prevents gasses and debris from being trapped, hence increasing the rotor’s wear life and maintaining the braking system’s durability. Slotted-only rotors have internal ventilation channels that conduct heat away from the front of the car and toward the rear.
Custom brake rotors constructed of ceramic or carbon materials are very expensive but seldom overheat; they are utilized in high-end and racing cars.
Brake rotors should be inspected at every maintenance and service your automobile receives even though they typically last longer than brake pads, typically at a rate of two to one. Measuring their physical thickness to see whether they are too thin is the most reliable approach to tell if they are nearing the end of their lives. The vehicle’s service manual specifies the minimum thickness, and some brake rotor manufacturers even etch it on the surface of the rotor.
Additionally, if any of the following symptoms occur, brake rotors may also need to be replaced:
- The driver feels a vibration in the steering wheel and/or the brake pedal after depressing the brake pedal.
- Reason: Pad deposits. On the face of the rotor, brake pad material can accumulate and produce high spots. Usually, a brake system that is overheated or underheated causes this. As the caliper piston is moved in and out of the caliper, these deposits often manifest more as pedal feedback.
- Pad deposits can be avoided by selecting the proper brake pad compound formulation for your vehicle. Nevertheless, if the deposits are not eliminated by repeating the bed-in procedure, turning or replacing the rotors may be required.
- Although severe steering wheel vibration can occur, it usually occurs as a result of a failing suspension component and not a braking component, despite the possibility of steering wheel shudder and/or feedback.
- When braking, the brakes make a lot of noise.
- Corrosion or worn-out components are the causes. The tight tolerances between brake parts might be impacted by heavily corroded brake components, leading to dragging or grinding effects. In order to warn drivers that their brakes need to be replaced, many brake pads are available with “mechanical wear sensors,” which are metal clips that are intended to scrape against the rotor when the brake pad thickness gets too low and produce an audible noise. These systems serve as a helpful reminder to check your rotors as well, even though their primary purpose is to draw attention to worn brake pads.
- Surface cracks have appeared on the brake rotor.
- Extreme heat is the cause. It’s crucial to realize that there are two separate kinds of rotor “cracks” that relate to the rotor’s expansion and compression as it cools and heats, but signify different problems.
- Heat checking: As depicted in the image below, this condition causes tiny hairline fractures to form on the rotor’s friction surface. This heat checking is quite normal and expected when operating at high temperatures, such as in a racing setting, and rotors exhibiting this are not always thought to need replacement.
- In contrast, if a fracture spreads and touches either the outer or inner edge of the rotor, as in the illustration below, the rotor has reached the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced right away.
- Note: It is important to understand that heat checking is not a result of subpar materials, and that cracks do not appear when run at extremely high temperatures. The greater the quality of the rotor, the longer the rotor will endure before either types of cracks occur.
- The functioning surface of the brake rotor has been scratched or damaged.
- Worn component or debris is the cause. If the metal backing plate of heavily worn brake pads comes into touch with the rotor, the rotor may be harmed. Additionally, road debris like stones and rust can get in between the brake pad and the rotor, causing the friction surface to groove.
- Contrary to what many people think, brake rotors almost rarely “warp.” This is a very uncommon occurrence because bending, or “warping,” a rotor requires enormous amounts of physical and thermal energy. Any unevenness, however, is solely the effect of pad deposits.
Whatever the reason of the wear, it is advisable to replace the entire assembly at once, including the front and rear brake rotors AND the front and rear brake pads, if even one rotor is worn out.
Brake rotors have a significant impact on driving safety, thus they must be changed with new ones as soon as damage is discovered. According to the automobile manufacturer’s recommendations, brake rotors must be chosen, and it is recommended to select branded items, ideally cross-drilled and vented types, made from high-quality materials. As some aftermarket manufacturers have recognized rotor weight and technical shortcomings and addressed these in their product offerings, researching known difficulties with your make and model of car may also provide insight into better-than-OEM remedies.
You are the best person to describe how safe braking feels in your own car. A rotor can sustain certain damage that will immediately modify its ability to brake, and that change needs rapid and urgent attention. However, since brake rotor deterioration can occur gradually over time, it’s equally crucial to inspect them at every service and record their thickness, degree of corrosion, and surface condition. Additionally, it’s time to replace the brake system components if you’ve made any modifications to your car or truck that alter the weight of the wheels or the overall vehicle, how the vehicle is utilized, or if you’ve added towing or increased payload.
The greatest approach to ensure your safety while driving is to replace your old, low-performance brake pads and rotors with new, high-performance ones!