How To Change Timing Belt On 2003 Toyota Tacoma

  • Replace the crank pulley bolt by partially tightening it (so the pulley will have room to slide forward as it releases).
  • Thread two 100mm M8 1.25 bolts with two washers on the heads into the two bigger holes on the crank shaft pulley.
  • Between the washers+bolt heads and the crank pulley, place the bearing puller SST.
  • To move the crank pulley forward, tighten the rod in the bearing puller SST (against the crank pulley bolt).
  • Remove the crank pulley and SST bolts.
  • The pulley should be moved the remaining distance.

Remove the starter wire bracket and lower (#1) timing belt cover

  • At the very bottom of the lower (#1) timing belt cover, two 10mm bolts that hold the starter wire bracket in place must be removed.
  • Remove the bracket by pulling it aside.
  • The #1 timing belt cover is fastened with four 10mm bolts; remove them to reveal the cover.

Set the #1 cylinder to top dead center

  • On the crank shaft timing gear pulley, look for a mark (dot).
  • On each of the two cam shaft pulleys, look for notches.
  • Turn the engine clockwise while using the Performance Tool W89208 Cam Pulley Holder SST in a cam pulley to match the timing shaft pulley’s mark/dot with the arrow on the engine and the notches on each of the two cam shaft pulleys with the marks at the top of the timing cover.

Removing the timing belt tensioner

  • The timing belt tensioner’s 12mm front bolt should be loosened.
  • Reach between the oil pan’s frame and the wire harness at the bottom of the vehicle with a long wobbling extension and a 12mm socket to remove the timing belt tensioner’s back 12mm bolt.
  • The timing belt tensioner and both 12mm bolts should be removed.
  • Optional:
  • If you’re thinking about reusing, check the timing belt tensioner. It is acceptable to reuse a pin if there is no obvious grease at the pin’s base.
  • Compress the pin until you can see it in a retracted position while holding the timing belt tensioner in a vice.

Removing the timing belt and idler pulleys

  • Note the forward/rear direction before removing the crank pulley washer.
  • Take note of the timing belt’s path as you slide it off, going around each pulley.
  • Crank shaft timing gear should be removed (to change the seal behind it).
  • The 14mm bolt holding the #2 non-pivoting idler pulley must be removed.
  • Get rid of the #2 idler pulley.
  • To release the bolt holding the #1 idler pulley, use a 10mm allen wrench.
  • Remove the washer that connects the #1 idler pulley to the engine before doing so. Please take note that even after replacing the #1 idler pulley, you will still utilize this washer.

Remove the water inlet from the water pump, to access the thermostat

  • Put a coolant catch basin underneath the engine to catch any leaking coolant.
  • Three 12mm nuts that secure the water inlet must be removed.
  • Take the water inlet neck off the studs by sliding it.
  • Take the thermostat off. Keep in mind that the jiggle valve opens DOWN at 6 o’clock.

Remove the cam position sensor, cam shaft pulleys, and rear (#3) timing cover

  • The 10mm bolt holding the cam position sensor in place should be removed.
  • Loosen the nuts holding the cam shaft pulleys on using the Performance Tool W89208 Cam Pulley Holder SST, breaker bar, and a friend. Note: To make this process simpler, you can also use an impact wrench and the SST.
  • The 17mm camshaft pulley bolts must be removed.
  • Remove the pulleys on the camshaft. R is the passenger, and L is the driver.
  • The little pin, key, or round bar in the camshaft pulley shaft should be taken out and put aside.
  • The rear timing cover’s 10mm bolts must be removed.
  • Pull the tab forward, the connector up, and then the wiring loom on the driver’s side to detach it from the rear timing cover.
  • We’ll have access to the cam shaft seals if we remove the rear timing cover.

Removal and replacement of the cam shaft and crank shaft seals

  • Hook the tool between the crank shaft and seal with the Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller SST, and then lever the seal out.
  • Apply some motor oil to the cam shaft and the new cam shaft seal. Use your fingers to press the seal as far as possible.
  • Press the new cam shaft seals in using the PRIVATE BRAND TOOLS PBT70960 Crankshaft and Camshaft Seal Tool Kit SST (choose the appropriate spacers, etc.). Revision 2022: This instrument, I’ve discovered, isn’t always effective and can bulge the seals, which will make them tear as they are inserted. I’ve discovered that using a gentle wooden or brass punch to gently tap the seals in seems to work better.

Instead of utilizing this instrument, I advise tapping the seal into place with a soft wooden or brass punch.

  • Tap the seal in the remaining distance if it is not completely installed.
  • Do the same with the other cam shaft.
  • Likewise with the crank shaft. Keep in mind that the crank shaft seal should not be flush with the lip of the crank shaft, but rather with the inside bevel.

Replace the water pump

  • Remove the hose from (the driver side of) the water pump after loosening the clamp on the oil cooler hose.
  • Seven 12mm bolts that keep the water pump in place must be removed.
  • From the engine, remove the water pump.
  • Make sure there is a nice mating surface for the new gasket and water pump by cleaning the engine face where the water pump attaches.
  • Overlap the new gasket with the thermostat and water neck studs.
  • Over the studs for the water neck and thermostat, slide the replacement water pump.
  • All bolts should be hand tightened before being torqued to 14 ft-lbs (168 in-lbs). Note: Change the nuts to bring them up to torque specifications.
  • Reattach the water pump clamp and the driver-side oil cooler hose.

Replace the thermostat and reconnect the water inlet for the water pump

  • Replace the thermostat. Keep in mind that the jiggle valve opens DOWN at 6 o’clock.
  • The water inlet neck should be slid onto the studs.
  • On the top nut, catch the wire bracket.
  • 3 12mm nuts that secure the water inlet should be hand tightened. to 14 ft-lbs of torque (168 in-lbs). Note: Change the nuts to bring them up to torque specifications.

Replace the rear timing cover and cam pulleys

  • Reinstall the timing cover on the rear engine.
  • The driver’s side wiring loom should be reattached to the rear timing cover.
  • The 10mm bolts holding the rear timing cover on must be reinstalled. 80 in-lbs of torque
  • The cam pulley shafts’ tiny pin/key needs to be replaced.
  • To fully seat the pulley, tap it on with a plastic hammer while you slide the cam pulleys on.
  • The cam pully bolts should be hand tightened, then torqued to 81 ft-lbs.
  • If necessary, rotate the cam shaft pulleys clockwise with the Performance Tool W89208 Cam Pulley Holder SST to realign them with the engine’s markings.
  • Use the original 10mm bolt to replace the cam position sensor and fasten it. 80 in-lbs of torque

Install the new #1 and #2 timing belt idler pulleys and timing belt

  • Place the #2 idler pulley in place. to 30 ft-lbs of torque.
  • Using a 10mm allen head wrench, attach the #1 idler pulley, making careful to also put the washer between the pulley and the engine. to 30 ft-lbs of torque.
  • Crankshaft timing gear replacement.
  • Make that the gear mark on the crank shaft is located at top dead center.
  • By lining up the left cam pulley with the driver-side arrow and notch, you may install the timing belt on the driver-side cam shaft pulley.
  • Timing belt should be passed over the right (passenger) cam pulley and beneath the #2 idler pulley.
  • Attach the timing belt to the cam shaft pulleys using two clamps.
  • Over the water pump pulley, thread the timing belt (driver side).
  • Make sure the timing belt is snug against the water pump pulley when you thread it over the timing gear.
  • Push the belt onto the #1 idler pulley while maintaining a strong grip on the timing gear and releasing the timing belt tensioner. Note that in order for this to work, the timing belt tensioner (which shouldn’t yet be installed) must not apply any tension on the #1 idler pulley.
  • Timing belt tensioner installation
  • Timing belt tensioner’s 12mm front bolt should be inserted halfway to retain the tensioner in place while still allowing for the insertion of the rear bolt.
  • Reach between the frame of the oil pan and the wiring harness from the bottom of the truck using a long extension, swivel, and 12mm socket. Then, thread the 12mm bolt into the swivel.
  • Timing belt tensioner bolts should be tightened to 20 ft-lbs (240 in-lbs – good and tight).
  • Make sure that all marks on the crank pulley and cam pulleys are top-dead-center by rotating the cam pulleys clockwise until the crank pulley gear has completed two full rotations using the Performance Tool W89208 Cam Pulley Holder SST. The timing belt’s markings will not line up; this is acceptable. Orient the notches on the metal gears and pulleys.
  • To tighten the belt, pull the pin on the timing belt tensioner.

Reinstalling everything

  • In its original position, replace the timing pulley washer.
  • The lower timing cover should be changed. the bolts to 80 in-lbs of torque.
  • The starter wire bracket’s two bolts need to be replaced. 80 in-lbs of torque
  • Crank shaft pulley replacement
  • When the designated tooth on the crank shaft gear is aligned with its corresponding mark and the cam shaft pulleys are aligned with their marks, make sure the notch in the crank shaft pulley points to 0 (zero).
  • Set the fresh crank shaft pulley bolt in place.
  • To hold the crank shaft pulley steady, use the Schley Products SP 64400 Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool SST and a breaker bar wedged beneath the passenger frame rail. the crank shaft bolt to 217 ft-lbs of torque.
  • Make careful to run the wire for the cam position sensor through the timing cover’s indentation and into the plastic bracket. By doing this, it is prevented from colliding with the timing belt.
  • Slide the fan bracket back over the studs to replace it.
  • Replace the top bolt and the nut on the driver’s side, and finger tighten only.
  • Over the fan bracket stud on the passenger side, reinstall the bracket for the power steering adjuster.
  • Replace the fan bracket nut on the passenger side above the fan bracket stud.
  • For the fan bracket, tighten each bolt and nut. (excellent and tight; no torque specifications provided)
  • Make sure the back, lower, and upper timing covers are connected to the wire carrying the cam position sensor.
  • Make that the cam position sensor connector is clipped in and accessible as it was when first fitted before reinstalling the upper timing cover. Six 10mm bolts should be torqued to 80 in-lbs.
  • Reattach the spark plug wire clips.
  • The oil dip stick’s top bracket should be reattached. 71 in-lbs of torque
  • Switch out the fan pulleys. Rear of the vehicle’s “dished out” side aligns with the forward pulley.
  • Change the fan clutch. Initially, twist the four 12mm nuts to 105 in-lbs by hand.

Installing belts and final fan clutch tightening

  • Replace the alternator belt. Utilize the OTC 6673 Universal Belt Tension Gauge SST to tension the belt. 120 lbs. of tension Note that the belt should get 100 pounds looser after a few minutes of use.
  • Adjuster lock nut should be tightened, but not completely, since we’ll do that after operating the truck for a while.
  • Install the AC belt. Operation the tensioning SST to set the belt’s tension at 120 lbs, or 100 lbs after a few minutes of use.
  • Pulley nuts should be tightened, but not completely because we’ll finish once the vehicle has been running for a while.
  • Install the power steering belt. Operation the tensioning SST to set the belt’s tension at 120 lbs, or 100 lbs after a few minutes of use.

Reinstall the radiator

  • Put the radiator in place by dropping it in and catching the brackets or hooks on the body.
  • The four 12mm bolts holding the radiator in place must be tightened. to 105 in-lbs of torque
  • If necessary, place the driver’s and passenger’s transmission cooler lines over the radiator’s fittings and clamp them shut.
  • The lower radiator hose should be changed. The hose end with the yellow mark should first be secured toward the engine; the white mark should be fixed toward the radiator. Use hose clamps to secure.
  • Between the fan and radiator, place the upper radiator shroud. Using 10mm bolts, secure. (tight)
  • The top radiator hose needs to be replaced. The hose end with the yellow mark should first be secured toward the engine; the white mark should be fixed toward the radiator. Use hose clamps to secure.
  • Replace the overflow tube on the radiator. Use a hose clamp to secure.

Refilling fluids

  • Replace any transmission fluid lost when the radiator was removed by adding new fluid.
  • Make sure the radiator’s drain valve is closed to prevent fluid from just leaking out.

When should a 2003 Toyota Tacoma’s timing belt be changed?

The majority of timing belt problems are brought on by failing to replace the belt when it should be every 60,000 to 100,000 miles as part of routine maintenance. The engine will run badly and the check engine light will probably come on if the timing belt is beginning to fail.

When should my Toyota Tacoma’s timing belt be changed?

Although they can last up to 100,000 miles, it’s always a good idea to change them before that. The valves, pistons, and other internal engine components can sustain significant damage in the event of a belt failure.