The same process is needed to change the front and rear brake pads for Toyota Camry, Solar, and Avalon models manufactured from 2001 to 2006. They all have front disc brakes that require brake pads, despite some models having rear drum brakes. With disc brakes, the brake caliper’s hydraulic piston extends and squeezes the brake pads on either side of the disc (also known as a brake rotor). When the brake pedal is pressed, friction between the rotor and pad surfaces slows the moving vehicle.
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Step 2
If equipped, use the locking lug nut key and lug nut wrench to loosen the front lug stud nuts. Only rotating the lug nuts counterclockwise will dislodge the tire and rim assembly.
Step 3
By raising one front quarter panel with a jack until it is level with the front frame rail, you may then repeat this process with the other front quarter panel. Wheels and lug nuts should be taken off.
Step 5
Using a prybar, pry the brake caliper off of the anchor plate of the knuckle assembly. Then, support the caliper on the suspension’s coil spring using a bungee cord. The brake hose won’t get hurt because of this.
Step 6
The piston of the caliper should be slowly and gently squeezed into its bore using a pair of channel locks measuring 12 inches or longer. This will create space for the installation of the larger, thicker brake pads.
Step 7
From the anchor plate, take off the inboard and outboard brake pads. If required, remove them off the plate with the pry tool. Remove the pad support plates, pad springs, and pad wear indicators (if your pads aren’t replacements). If necessary, remove the top and lower support plates with the pry tool once more.
Step 8
Use a small, stiff-bristled wire brush to clean the support plates if the replacement pad set does not come with new ones. The plates should be cleaned of any rust or brake dust before being reinstalled onto the upper and lower halves of the anchor plate. The area of the plates that mates with the tabs of the brake pads should be lightly coated with brake lubricant.
Step 9
Apply the shims to the backing plates of the pads that come with the replacement brake pad set (if not already staked by rivets). The shims and backing plates of the brake pads should both get an even application of brake anti-squeal spray. Before inserting the pads, give the spray time to dry and become tacky.
Step 11
Place the caliper over the freshly installed brake pads and the original rotor after removing it from the bungee cord. Set the anchor plate and knuckle assembly in place before aligning the caliper mounting bolts through the inboard caliper housing. Using a torque wrench and a 14 mm socket, tighten the bolts to 35 foot-pounds.
Step 12
In order to ensure that the wheel is snug against the hub, replace the wheel and lug nuts. Then, tighten the lug nuts using the wrench from the roadside emergency kit and the lug nut locking key (if available).
Step 14
Lift the front quarter panel with the help of the emergency roadside kit’s jack until you can individually remove each jack stand, then slowly lower the Camry to the ground.
Step 15
Utilizing the torque wrench and a 21 mm socket, tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross or star pattern to 80 foot-pounds.
Before releasing the parking brake, taking out the tire wedge, and checking the brake fluid level in the master cylinder, pump the brake pedal until it feels firm. If necessary, fill the master cylinder with DOT3 brake fluid to the full mark.
Can I simply swap out the rear brake pads?
Brake repair is one of those things that needs to be done right away for your car.
Each year, brake failure contributes to 300,000 accidents in the US. Avoid putting your loved ones or yourself in needless danger.
One technique to make sure your car remains safe on the road is to change the brake pads. But how can you tell when to change your brake pads? Do you think you should change all four at once?
What Do Brake Pads Do?
You already know that a vehicle’s brakes must work properly, but do you know exactly what brake pads are and what they perform?
The most crucial component of your car’s braking system is actually the brake pads. Your brakes’ pads are the component that makes contact with, exerts pressure on, and creates friction with the brake rotors to stop your car.
The flat, gleaming discs that are typically found behind the wheels of cars are the braking rotors. Your car’s wheels each have their own set of brake rotors and pads.
The brake pad degrades with time as a result of the ongoing friction between these two components. When you need to stop your car the most, the less traction it has, the less effective it is.
Do You Need to Replace All Four Brake Pads at Once?
Do you have to replace all four brake pads at once even though the majority of brake pads are sold in bundles of four?
The front and rear brakes and rotors are paired together, so keep that in mind initially. You have the option of replacing the front and rear brake pads in pairs at the same time or one pair at a time. Your mechanic can take care of this problem on their own if your front brake pads need to be repaired or replaced. You should also be aware that the front and rear brake pads on your car wear out at quite different rates. The majority of the work is done by the front brake pads, which accelerates wear and increases replacement frequency.
Your automobile lurches forward as you apply the brakes, coming down directly on the front wheels. The majority of your car’s braking power originates from this.
Additionally, by relieving pressure from the back tires and brake pads, this movement increases the amount of friction between the front tires and the ground. Most automakers base their vehicle designs on these fundamental ideas. Your car’s front brake pads are designed and manufactured to withstand the shock, pressure, and friction of vigorous braking.
Brake Light Will Come On
Those obnoxious tiny lights that flash on our dashboards are something we’ve all experienced. These lights aren’t always something to ignore, though. When the service light on your dashboard illuminates, you can be certain that your brakes need to be repaired. This indicator is often red or yellow and may also have the words “brake” or “anti-lock brake” along with the exclamation point sign in brackets (!)
Additionally, make sure your parking brake wasn’t accidently engaged. If you did, your dashboard would flash with the letter “P.” Turning off the parking brake should extinguish the light. If you get this indication, it can just be a false alarm and your brake pads are fine.
Because some older automobiles don’t have illuminated dashboards, you’ll need to find another technique to pinpoint the issue.
Failed Inspection
Your brake pads may be found to be thinner than allowed if the state where you live mandates an inspection. Some experts can also conduct a visual examination to see whether your brake pads need to be replaced or repaired if they are worn out.
The sound of your brakes squeaking, screeching, or grinding is another indication that the thickness of your pads is wearing down. This is the metal from where the brake pads previously rubbed on the rotors’ metal. If you wait too long, you might also need new rotors.
A Vibrating or Shaking Steering Wheel
Your steering wheel may shake or tremble when your brake pads are wearing thin or your rotor is uneven.
Your rotors should be smooth and able to make touch with the brake pads while performing properly. However, wheels may rotate unevenly, which can result in flaws in your rotors.
As the wheel spins, friction is produced between your brake pad and an uneven rotor. This may cause a bump by wearing down the pad or transferring some of the force to your rotor.
Your brake pad is contacting these rotor flaws as you brake and experience shaking or wobbling. Your vehicle may also start to pull to one side. This may occasionally be due to a problem with your steering or suspension system (such as your wheel alignments), but it may also be due to your brakes needing maintenance or repair.
Change in Brake Pressure
When you step on the brake pedal, it should feel somewhat resistant. If you apply the brakes and feel less (or more) resistance, your car may need brake repair right away.
Some individuals call this sensation “soft,” “sinking,” or “squishy.” This alteration could be the result of brake fluid leakage, trapped air or moisture, or both. It might possibly be a problem with the master cylinder, in which case a mechanic should be called right away.
Perform Routine Brake Repair and Stay Safe
When it comes to brake repair, there is no room for error. You should take your car to the shop right away if it exhibits any symptoms of worn brake pads, rotors, or other brake-related problems.
Give a skilled mechanic a list of the red flags you’ve seen so they can identify the issue. You, your passengers, and other drivers will stay safe if your brakes are working correctly.
Regular vehicle maintenance performed by a mechanic can stop problems before they start.
How are rear brake pads changed?
Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels to begin the process. (Avoid using the emergency brake; doing so makes it more difficult to take out the calipers.)
Place the jack in its proper position and elevate just enough to apply pressure to the jack. To remove the lug nuts from the wheel, use an impact or lug wrench. Spin the lug nuts off the lugs and raise the car until the wheel is raised off the ground. Then, remove the wheel.
Remove Bolts from Caliper Pins
To remove the bolts holding the caliper in place, use a box-end wrench. To avoid placing tension on the brake line, remove the bolts and hang the caliper up and away from the work area using mechanical wire or a short piece of bungee cord.
Remove Bolts from Caliper Brackets
To remove the two bolts holding the caliper bracket in place, use a box-end wrench. To apply more tension to reluctance bolts, you might want a longer-handled wrench. If you don’t have one on hand, you can make an extension by wrapping a piece of pipe around the box-end wrench handle. Lift the caliper free of the rotor after removing the bolts.
Lubricate Caliper Guide Pins
The two caliper guide pins should be lubricated while the caliper is still off. Each should be cleaned off with a clean rag before being lubricated with silicone paste. After reinstalling them, twist to disperse the lubrication.
Remove the Brake Pads
In the caliper bracket, slide the brake pads out. Take note of their position as you remove the old stainless steel retainer clips from the grooves holding them in place; take a quick photo if you fear you might forget. Next, use a wire brush to clean the bracket of dust.
Reattach Caliper Bracket
Allowing as much space as possible to pass the pads over the rotor, slide the pads to the outside of the bracket. Once the bracket is in place, tighten the two anchor bolts with your fingers. Utilizing a long-handled box-end wrench, tighten each bolt tightly. Avoid over-torquing, which could strip the threads.
Seat the New Brake Pads
Place the new retainer clips where the old ones were by snapping them into place. Some pads have a package of brake grease; if not, crack open a fresh sachet and dab a small amount inside each clip holding the brake pad ears.
A metal flange attached to the back of the new brake pad should be located. This flange, which should be positioned on the inside pad, acts as a squealer to indicate significant pad wear. The friction material of this pad should be facing the rotor as you insert it into the clip-lined grooves of the caliper mounting. The friction material should once more be facing the rotor as you insert the matching outer pad into the bracket’s opposite side.
Reattach Caliper
Pull the piston back. Any instrument large enough to compress the piston will work if the piston face is hollow; however, it must be used carefully to avoid damaging the thin metal that makes up the piston’s back face. By placing one of the old pads across the piston as you push it back, you can protect the piston. A unique instrument called a brake caliper wind-back tool is necessary for many more recent models. Look for a solid surface (not hollow) on the piston face with two or three recesses for the winding pins to grab and turn to identify these pistons.
If the brakes are taken apart and you don’t have the necessary equipment, you can still finish the task with a pliers or a needle-nose vise-grip wrench. To withdraw the piston, grasp the piston face firmly with the wrench’s tip.
Put the caliper back in place over the fresh brake pads. Slide the anchor bolts into the slider pins and through the caliper. A box-end wrench should be used to tighten each after finger-tightening it until it is snug.
Remount Wheel
With your fingers, thread the nuts onto the lugs after positioning the wheel on them. Instead of going around the hub in a circle, move in a star pattern while jumping over it. When all of the lugs are threaded, gently tighten them before using an impact or lug wrench to tighten them down firmly while continuing to work in a star pattern. After using your car for a few days, make it a point to check the lugs again.
Pump the Brake Pedal
Be sure to press the brake pedal once the wheels are in place to reattach the caliper piston to the brake pads. If this is not done, the first time the brake pedal is pressed, there will be no stopping power.
A Note on Safety
Asbest is still used by many aftermarket vendors, and it is impossible to tell whether brake pads contain it just by looking at them. Never use compressed air to clean any of the parts when changing brake pads. Use a brake cleaner with a spry design instead to capture the dust and stop it from escaping into the air. A dust mask should always be worn when working on brakes.