How To Change A Starter On A 1998 Toyota 4Runner

The 1998 Toyota 4Runner’s starting motor may go down suddenly or gradually. It’s time to remove your starter, have it bench-tested, and replace it if necessary if it starts making odd noises like grinding or clicking. Starter motor replacements can be purchased brand-new from the Toyota dealership, brand-new and rebuilt from the majority of auto parts retailers, or even used from a salvage yard. While used starters typically do not, new ones typically do.

Step 1

Utilizing a tool to remove the retaining bolt, lift the hood of your 4Runner and detach the negative battery line from the battery terminal. The battery wire should be removed from the battery and put away.

Step 2

Place a jack under the 4Runner’s front end. Place a set of jack stands beneath the frame after raising the truck until you can work underneath it comfortably. The 4Runner can then rest on the jack stands after the jack is lowered.

Step 3

Locate the starter motor on the passenger side of the engine from underneath the truck. The starter’s electrical contacts should be removed. Push the tab on the push-in connector to release it from the starter’s socket. With a wrench, unfasten the retaining bolt on the second connector and take out the wire from the stud.

Step 4

Find the two starter mounting bolts where the starter meets the bell housing at the front of the starter. These bolts are installed from the bell housing’s back, or transmission, side. Using a socket and ratchet while holding the starter motor, remove them. From below the truck, lower the starter and remove it.

Step 5

From below, place the replacement starter in the engine compartment. Insert the starter’s nose into the bell housing’s hole. Thread the mounting bolts into the starter from the bell housing’s transmission side.

Step 6

Using a torque wrench, tighten the two mounting nuts to 29 ft-lbs. Connect the starter’s wire harness connectors. When the two have locked together, begin with the push-in connector and insert the wiring connector into the starter connector.

Step 8

Your 4Runner’s front end should be raised with a jack until it is off the jack stands. Set the truck on the ground by removing the jack supports from underneath it and lowering the jack.

The negative battery cable should be attached to the negative battery terminal, and the cable end’s retaining bolt should be tightened with a tool.

  • tool set
  • Jack
  • Jack postures
  • Adapter set
  • Ratchet
  • ratchet wrench

For a 1998 Toyota 4Runner, how much does a starter cost?

For your 1998 Toyota 4Runner, we now offer 22 Starter items to select from, with prices ranging from $99.99 to $234.99.

How is a starter relay tested?

Thanks to their advantageous location in the engine bay, starter relays may fortunately be serviced without having to raise the vehicle. For your assessment, you will require the following equipment:

  • an electronic multimeter
  • Wire

Having a helper available to turn the ignition while you conduct your testing is also beneficial.

Step 1: Test for Electrical Resistance

Put probes on the ground lead and the ignition circuit terminal using your multimeter. You need to replace your starting relay if the reading is greater than 5 Ohms. A wire jumper can also be used to test for resistance. To check for a forceful click, connect a wire between the battery lead and the ignition circuit lead. Weak clicks suggest a problem with the starter relay.

Step 2: Test for Voltage

Set your multimeter to 20V DC and attach the red probe to the battery’s red wire terminal while positioning the other probe on the black and white ignition switch circuit. The voltage drop shouldn’t be more than 0.2 volts when your assistant flicks the ignition. In that case, you have a problem with electrical conductivity and require a new starter relay.

On a Toyota Tundra, how long does it take to replace the starter?

This approach is probably considerably more annoying and may not even be faster than removing the exhaust manifold.

The excursions to the computer to review the how-to instructions only to confirm that the heat shields and starter will in fact emerge from behind the manifold must be considered. Removing them is therefore like solving a difficult problem. To remove it and one of the bolts keeping the steel shield in place, I had to cut one of the aluminum shields.

merely to remove the starter took almost three hours. On the list of the worst jobs ever, this one is up there. Currently awaiting the arrival of the new one.