Hello everyone! The Toyota Camry 2007 XLE with JBL sound and no navigation has a factory-installed JBL amplifier that I’m attempting to get rid of. I was unable to locate a straightforward harness online to do that. Please let me know if anyone knows where I may purchase the necessary harness. This is not a choice for me right now because I’m unsure of my readiness to run wires from speakers to my new head unit. The color codes on the in and out connectors of the amplifier would be the other useful information. I’m thinking I can connect the wires myself using color codes.
In This Article...
Can my factory amp be bypassed?
Should I maintain or bypass the factory amplifier? In this essay, we’ll look at that query. Hint: Bypassing the factory amp requires a little extra work, but it’s well worth it if you want the finest sound from your new stereo or speakers.
Many modern vehicles’ factory-installed radio systems come with an external amplifier. This factory amplifier is made to improve the sound of low-quality factory speakers. But changing the stereo or the factory speakers won’t help you at all.
- Maintaining the factory amp typically makes installing a new stereo simpler, and in certain vehicles, that may be your only choice. The sound of your new stereo, though, is only as good as that amp.
- Because you must run the bypass harness to the factory amp, which is frequently placed in another area of the automobile, bypassing the factory amp requires a bit more effort. Even if you keep the factory speakers, it’s typically worth the extra work because your new stereo will sound better.
Should I bypass the factory amp or should I keep it?
Wiring options that either work with the factory amp or allow you to bypass the amp are frequently available for a given vehicle. What method is preferable? We choose to contrast the two choices and form our own opinions.
For Dave’s desired features, including preamp outputs compatible with the amp integration harness, we selected the JVC KW-R925BTS CD receiver.
Setting the stage with new speakers
JVC CS-DR1700C 6-3/4 front speakers were used in their place by Dave “Front component speakers with brackets for each tweeter made from a universal backstrap. 6-3/4 JVC CD-SR1720 “Directly mounted 2-way speakers were installed in the back doors’ OEM mounts.
Dave connected the RCA connections on the amp integration adapter to the preamp outputs on the JVC receiver in order to use it.
Getting the new radio ready for the test
Dave reasoned that since the factory amp in his Highlander was still functional, hooking to it would be acceptable. With no connections to run to the amp location, the installation would have been a little simpler. He could connect the new stereo to the port in the dash cavity where the old radio had been plugged in by keeping the factory amp.
Here’s when we chimed in, telling Dave that he could anticipate greater sound if he bypassed that stock amp and powered his new speakers straight from the JVC receiver. Many of the sound features that his new stereo offers would be lost if the stock amp was still in use.
Switching between the bypass harness and the integration adapter
The wiring harness that connected to Dave’s Highlander’s factory amp was easily accessible to us. In order to safely swap between the amp integration and bypass settings to compare the sound, we assisted him in wiring the radio.
Dave just pulled the cable from the amp and inserted it into the bypass harness’s socket to bypass the factory amp.
How did it sound?
To put things in context, Dave works largely on our company’s home audio division, so he has had exposure to some of the best-sounding home audio systems available. His opinions on the two connection options for his new car audio are as follows:
“I initially believed I wanted to utilize the factory amp because it had more power and sounded better. Since I didn’t have to access the amp, it appeared to be a simpler installation as well. The sound with the amp integration harness was superior to what I was accustomed to hearing. Compared to the factory radio and speakers, it was far more detailed.”
So, when he maintained the factory amplifier in the system, he could detect some improvement in the sound. Even if he chose the simpler setup, his music would gain. But after that, the experiment’s second phase began:
“But as soon as the bypass was activated, I cried out, “Ah, there’s the missing bass!” The low end that was lacking on the initial run was brought back by bypassing the stock amp. Without sacrificing any of the detail, the midrange and high frequencies were also much more genuine. It made a significant difference. It is a bypass!”
Factory amps can also include factory frequency settings
Power alone is not the only factor. A filter or crossover network for particular frequencies that might not sound their best with a new system might also be included in the stock amp. Dave also bypassed any filters in the stock amp, sending a clean, full-range signal to the speakers by omitting the factory amplifier and powering the speakers directly from the JVC receiver.
That’s it! Under the back seats is where the Toyota’s OEM JBL amplifier is located. It may be bypassed without having to remove it, which saves time.
Installing the bypass harness in the vehicle
Once Dave made the decision to stick with the bypass adapter’s superior sound, he had to direct the wiring of the adapter to the factory amp, which is housed beneath the Highlander’s back seat. He discovered that it wasn’t as difficult as he first believed.
He removed this electrical bundle from the passenger-side kick panel trim, the glove compartment, and the radio cavity. When Dave removed some of the door threshold trim, he discovered some really useful channels that were the perfect size for his wiring. He tidily tucked each wire under the trim and connected this bundle to the connector that went into the stock amplifier.
Dave covered the wiring bundle with the vehicle’s trim while running the bypass harness from the dash compartment to the factory amp placement.
Final thoughts
Before replacing all the trim, Dave performed one last sound check to ensure everything was in working order. The new sound system makes his family’s carpooling a lot more enjoyable. The music sounds clearer and more detailed after bypassing the stock amplifier than it did before he used the amplifier integration harness. To get better sound, we advise bypassing the stock amp whenever there is one available.
You should keep this choice in mind if you’re thinking about getting a new stereo for your car. You may view your vehicle’s connectivity choices with our OutfitMyCarTM tool. Additionally, we’re accessible to help by phone or chat if you have any questions.
Comments (79)
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with a factory amp and a JBL sound system. I’m a speaker freak and want to keep the car’s existing eight speakers in order to add four more aftermarket speakers and subwoofers in the trunk. Do I need to connect all of the stock speakers to a new amp and the aftermarket speakers to a different amp, or could I keep the factory amp and somehow run RCA cables from it to the other amp powering the aftermarket speakers?
Therefore, why can’t you simply pull the factory amp RCA plugs from the aftermarket stereo?
Since the OEM speakers are 2 ohms, replacing them alone and using the factory amp while listening to it produced just half the power of the initial arrangement. only something to consider
The big picture, in my opinion, should guide the choice. If the radio system in a 2002 Highlander and a 2003 4Runner are identical, one would notice a loss of the center dash speaker if bypassing, which would eliminate the JBL sound options. The diversity of Ohm ratings among the 10 speakers means that there aren’t many direct speaker replacements.
My goal is to research and assess your possibilities in light of your time, budget, and overall A/V expectations.
I drive a Hyundai Sonata from 2004. I want to install an aftermarket radio along with an amp and subwoofers. Can I simply run brand-new speaker wire from my interior speakers to my amplifier, as I would ordinarily do if a factory amp weren’t present?
Using a vehicle that is 20 years old has little in common with the electronics in modern cars. Utilizing a vehicle from the last couple of years to compare would have been more beneficial.
I’m about to make the 2019 RAM 2500 super cab purchase. keeping the factory amp and speakers but getting rid of the active noise cancellation technology and the 8″ UCONNECT “stereo”. I want to buy a bundle that would produce higher highs and lower lows. The tweeters in the current stereo sound like they were stuffed with socks. As you increase the volume to avoid damaging the RAM’s poor speakers, the low end is also muffled. I detest that!
I purchased brand-new component speakers for the front and coaxial speakers for the back for my 2017 Mazda CX-3. My concern is whether I should install a new amp in my car in order to get the greatest results, how to do it, and what amp I would need. My car already has a factory amp.
I need assistance in order to comprehend and apply this to my car. I don’t want to disassemble my entire dash to connect everything in that manner. Since the factory amp wiring for my car is in the trunk, I’d much rather avoid that. I want to install two ampsone for my primary interior speakers and one for my subwoofer. The only item I currently have is an 8-gauge power cable running to the back, which was connected to an old amplifier. Before that converter failed, I was using the factory sub in the back to supply the signal for my subwoofers. A brand-new 4-gauge will be used from the front to the back. I already have a fuze box in the front, but I’ll need a three-splitter fuse box in the back to power 2 amps and perhaps something extra later. I’m not sure what that might be yet; I’m just not sure where my signals should come from. how to do it, too. My vehicle is a 2013 Kia Optima AXL. I know where the stock amp is hidden under the right side trunk panel and how to get to the harness that connects to it, but I’m not sure how to proceed from there to acquire signal for replacement amps. Additionally, I’m searching for a 2-channel amp for the subwoofers and a 4-channel amp for the inside speakers, but they are still stock. I’ll probably add some Kicker speakers for the front doors in the interim. But I really want to know how I can connect this system without having access to the stock stereo.
How do you connect an amp’s factory input?
Running a lot of new speaker wire from the stereo to the amplifier and then from the amp to the speakers is sometimes necessary when adding an amplifier to a stock stereo. It may seem unattainable and nightmare-like at times. Thankfully, there is a method to make it a little simpler.
Use a set of RCA cables instead of one of the 9-wire cables below if your stereo is an aftermarket model. For further information, see our article on upgrading an aftermarket radio with an amp.
Multi-conductor cable to the rescue
Installing a 4-channel amplifier with speaker-level inputs is the norm. The amp’s input signal should be connected to the stereo’s speaker outputs if you want to connect it to a factory system. Send the amp’s outputs back to the stereo’s harness, and from there, use the original wire to connect them to the speakers.
Remove the radio to get to the factory wiring
All of the speaker wiring are accessible from one location behind the OEM radio. The wire harness for the radio supplies it with electricity and transmits the sound it produces to the speakers. You must know which wire connects to which speaker. Negative leads typically have the same color with a stripe of a different hue while positive leads are typically solid-colored wires.
Connect the wires
Cut each of the eight speaker cables after identifying it. A new wire leading to the amp’s input should be connected to the end coming from the radio plug. Connect the speaker-end end to the proper wire coming from the output of the amplifier.
You will thus need two 9-wire cablesone for the amp’s input and the other for its output.
Radio plugs in at the top, amplifier in/out via 9-conductor wires goes to the right, and car wiring goes to the left. (Even with my poor vision and trembling hands, I only needed around 40 minutes to wire this harness as an example.)
Forget the turn-on lead
Speaker-level input amplifiers also have “signal-sensing turn-on.” When there is an input signal, the amplifier switches on. This indicates that for this installation, you do not use the ninth wire (the blue wire) of either cable.
Something you may need
The radio may occasionally turn off if you cut the stock speaker cabling because it cannot recognize any speakers connected to it. You must install a load generating device on each output channel to resolve this problem in order for the radio to function properly.
Expert installation tip
Mark both ends of one cable with electrical tape before running these two 9-wire wires through your car. Once the cables are installed, you will be able to distinguish between the wires for amp inputs and outputs.
Some products to help you do it
Posi-Products Car Stereo Connectors in a multi-pack can be useful in this situation. All speaker connections can be made without the need of solder or crimping tools. One package will provide enough supplies for this job and a few extras.
You can add an amplifier to a few automobiles with non-amplified original stereos using one of the vehicle-specific T-harnesses that PAC Audio supplies. For these installations, 9-wire cable will also be useful in order to connect the inputs and outputs of your aftermarket amp to the system.
High power amps need bigger wires
It might be preferable to go ahead and run brand-new 14- or 16-gauge speaker wires directly from the amplifier to each speaker for amps with an output of more than 75 watts RMS per channel.
Factory speaker cables have a high electrical resistance and are extremely thin. When greater wattages attempt to get through, they can result in an observable power loss. But this doesn’t really have an impact on amplifiers that are 75 watts or less. Using factory wiring to run their output is still a workable and practical method.
Line output converters
Utilizing something called a line output converter is another common method of connecting an amplifier to a factory radio. It attaches to the speaker wires on the factory radio and transforms the speaker-level signal into a preamp-level signal. This enables you to connect that signal to your amplifier using RCA wires.
One benefit of a line output converter is that it can manage and total the signals of a multi-channel industrial system. Therefore, adopting a line output converter can be your best choice if you’re upgrading a complex system. The speaker wire fix we’ve provided here is a less complicated, more affordable one that will work for most folks. Explore line output converters in greater detail.
Let us know what you need
The speaker connections were the main topic of this paper. Check out our Amplifier Installation Guide for details on other areas of amplifier installation, such as power and ground wiring.
Contact our consultants by phone or chat if you have any queries regarding how to connect a new amplifier to your speakers. They’ll take the time to address your concerns and go through the specifics before setting you up with everything you require.