I decided to share my story after reading through the other forums and was sure that if I tried bleeding my brakes myself, the world would end.
As a result of what I performed, I had no problems with the ABS lights or any other kind of warning.
I just continued going and didn’t let the master cylinder reservoir fluid level get low since I didn’t want to bother trying to siphon old fluid out of it.
Only a 10 mm wrench, a few quarts of DOT 3 fluid, 3 feet of 3/16 I.D. vinyl tubing, a clamp from Ace Hardware, an empty Gatorade bottle, and a wire brush are required.
To prevent the bottle from toppling over, I simply drilled a small vent hole and a hole through the top cap, then tied a length of rope around the neck to hang underneath.
Before starting a project, I always wash off the underbelly, thus in the photos, the liquid is simply residual hose moisture.
To ensure a good seal and remove any rust or debris, I began at the passenger-side rear and removed the cover from the bleeder, or what was left of it. Since I live in Montana, the underneath suffers a lot of damage. Two years ago, after removing the rust, I painted the underside, and it already looks terrible once more.
2. Place the vinyl tubing after sliding the box end of the 10mm over the bleeder. Even though it’s quite snug, if I’m working alone, I also use a clamp. To avoid sucking air during the first few pumps, add a small amount of brake fluid to the container.
3. Insert the key (but do not start the vehicle) and listen to ensure that the brake pump is not operating.
4. Lock the door.
5. If you have a helper, I crouched down to free the bleeder and had them lower the pedal. I closed the bleeder before ceasing to exert myself. You should be moving a considerable volume of fluid with each pump if you repeat this procedure a few times. If you’re by yourself, all you need to do is open the bleeder, give it a few pumps, and then crawl underneath to close it. The bottle and hose will stop the air from being sucked in.
6. After a few pumps, I would turn the key to the on position, check the fluid level, and if necessary, add more fluid to maintain the reservoir full while the motor ran and the system was repressurized.
7. Repeat steps 7 and 8 for the driver’s side rear, passenger front, and driver front. Just be careful not to allow the fluid level fall too low, and you must switch the key back on if the pedal touches the floor. I simply recharged it every few pumps while keeping an eye on the fluid level. It went quickly because my daughter was helping me.
I’ve read about turning on the ABS outside before flushing even more. When it starts to snow here, the ABS will be really busy, so I’ll just do this again in the spring. The brakes are now much nicer, and I hope to switch the rotors and pads this week. I have Techstream, but I really didn’t want to trouble with it for a brake flush because it is a hidden mess if it wants to operate. I’ve worked on many other cars, but for some reason, after reading some of the posts, I felt frightened. Given how filthy the fluid was, I wish I had done this sooner because it was so quick and simple. On the first press, my brake pedal feels noticeably nicer already. I’m waiting to see whether the stoplight random sticking of the brake pedal occurs.
Hope this is useful. There may be a different way to do it or something the handbook instructs you to do, but this is how I did it and the lights are out.
In This Article...
How do you manually bleed brakes step-by-step?
- Do not recycle used brake fluid. It might contain contaminants that can damage important brake system components.
- Brake fluid can damage your car’s paint, therefore it is important to clean up spills as soon as possible.
Let’s get started on bleeding brakes now:
Step 1: Get The Right Brake Fluid
The most popular fluid is DOT 3, but you should always check the owner’s manual to ensure you only use the right kind of brake fluid for your car.
It is inexpensive and simple to find good brake fluid at an auto parts store. To bleed your braking system, you could need two or three 12-ounce cans of clean brake fluid.
Step 2: Mount The Car And Remove The Tires
Your car should be jacked up on a flat, firm surface (preferably a garage floor or driveway).
This is how:
- At the jacking places indicated in your owner’s manual, install four jack stands.
- To remove the lug nuts from your tires, get a tire iron.
- To reveal each brake caliper component or brake drum, remove the tires and wheels.
Step 3: Loosen the Bleeder Screw
The four caliper bleeder screws should be located (also called a bleeder valve or caliper bleed screw). In a disc brake, the bleeder screw is normally located near the base of the brake caliper assembly.
It is located on the back of the backing plate in drum brakes (attached to the wheel cylinder inside the drum.)
Depending on the make and model of your car, a hydraulic brake bleeder valve’s size and placement may change.
The following step is as follows:
- The bleeder bolt can be gradually loosened using a box wrench. Don’t twist the wrench too tightly if there is resistance.
- Apply penetrating oil on the bleeder bolt and let it sit for 30 minutes to soak. Then make another try to unscrew it.
- Place each bleed screw back in place after you’ve loosened it.
Every other caliper bleed screw needs to be closed because you’ll be bleeding one brake at a time and you don’t want air bubbles getting into the braking system.
Reminder: If you snap off or strip a bleeder bolt, stop right away and seek assistance from a professional.
Step 4: Check The Brake Fluid Level
Make sure the brake fluid reservoir is always full while bleeding the brakes.
For that:
- Find the reservoir for the braking fluid by lifting the hood of your car.
- If the brake fluid level is below the maximum mark, open the master cylinder cap and pour fresh brake fluid. Here, only use the brake fluid that is advised.
- If the fluid level drops, leave the master cylinder cap on but unscrewed to avoid further air bubbles.
Step 5: Cover the Screw Opening With Tubing
One end of a 1/4-inch-diameter clear plastic tube should be placed over the first bleeder screw.
Although it is recommended to start with the brake that is farthest from the master cylinder (the passenger rear wheel), some vehicles need a different procedure. Consult your owner’s handbook or inquire with the service division at your dealer.
The other end of the plastic tubing should now be inserted into a single-use container filled with fresh brake fluid. Air won’t be drawn back into the brake caliper, wheel cylinder, or brake master cylinder as a result of this.
Step 6: Get An Assistant To Engage The Brake Pedal
The brake should be bled as follows:
- Once the brake pedal has been pumped many times by your assistant, hold the pedal halfway down. If pushed too far, it may push the master cylinder’s secondary piston through deposits or sediments, harming the piston seals and resulting in leaks.
Put a tiny piece of wood under the brake pedal to keep it from being pushed all the way to the floor.
- Then have your helper shout, “Pressure when the pedal is down.”
- Open the valve with the brake bleeder wrench. Air and old brake fluid will be forced out of the brake line and into the jar by the hydraulic brake.
- The assistant should shout “Down” just as the pedal approaches the floor (and touches the wooden block).
- Close the bleeder valve right away.
- When they say “Up,” ask them to let go of the pedal.
- Continue doing this until no more air bubbles are released with the liquids.
Step 7: Repeat On Each Brake
Repeat Step 6 for the remaining brakes after successfully bleeding the first brake.
A brake bleeder sequence typically begins with the passenger rear wheel, is followed by the driver rear wheel, the passenger front wheel, and then the driver front wheel. However, for the proper order, always refer to your owner’s manual.
Additionally, after working on each brake bleed, check the fluid level in the cylinder reservoir. If required, top it off with fresh brake fluid.
Once finished, tightly shut off each bleed valve and add fresh brake fluid to the cylinder reservoir.
Step 8: Observe The Master Cylinder Reservoir
Ask your spouse to apply the brakes firmly before quickly releasing them.
Keep an eye on the fluid’s movement in the brake fluid reservoir. The brake fluid should be slightly stirred up if you did the task correctly.
However, the brake system still contains some air bubbles if there is a substantial fluid eruption. You will then need to repeat the brake bleeding process.
Abs brakes can be bled without a diagnostic tool, right?
Bleeding the ABS module is not a particularly challenging task. However, because you must bleed each wheel separately, it can take some time. So, keep reading and follow the instructions to learn how to bleed the abs module without a scan instrument.
- The car must first be parked on a level surface at a location with good lighting and ventilation. To quickly access the bleeders, jack up the automobile and take off the four wheels. After that, empty the brake fluid reservoir by draining the brake fluid out of it.
- Remove the dust cap in order to access the brake caliper’s bleeding port. Use the proper wrench, and instead of totally removing the bleeding port, try to loosen it. Use a tube to connect the bleeding port to the bleeder. While the bleeding procedure is taking place, reserve the brake fluid using the container that emerges.
- Bring a helping hand to continuously pump the brake with you. It will force the air and brake fluid in the circuit towards the direction of the bleeder. The master cylinder needs to be continually inspected. It cannot be bare. When it reaches the middle, you must add oil. It will develop fresh air bubbles if not.
- After that, tighten the bleeding bolt and instruct your assistant to keep pressing the brake pedal until it is rigid and difficult to do so. Then, starting with the right rear wheel, repeat the procedure on each wheel before moving on to the others in turn.
- When everything is finished, check that the components are assembled and that the system is leak-free. To check if there is a leak, ask your helper to constantly push the pedal. After that, add fresh fluid to the master cylinder. To make sure your abs are operating properly, attach the wheels and go for a test drive.
Without a scan tool, you can bleed the ABS module in this manner. It takes a little time, but it’s simple.
How can air be removed from brakes without bleeding them?
1. Put the parking brake on and park your automobile on a level surface. To prevent rolling down the hill as you work on the issue, apply the parking or emergency brake.
2. Look for the master cylinder reservoir cap when you open the hood of your car. With an arrow directing to which wheel should be pumped first, it will be circular or octagonal (the right front wheel).
3. Turn the reservoir cover counterclockwise until it completely disengages, then remove it.
4. After cleaning, reinstall the cap on the reservoir. Verify that the arrow indicates which wheel needs to be pushed up first.
5. Carry out Step 3 for each additional wheel until each reservoir has a cap and an arrow pointing to it. Replace all of your car’s brake fluid if it’s low to prevent future issues with air bubbles. Then, you can fill each reservoir as full as you can (without getting any air into the system).
6. After you’ve disconnected each reservoir from the rest of the car, gently depress each brake pedal 20 times to make it firm once more (or until no more air comes out). By doing so, all extra air will be forced to one end or the other, which will facilitate bleeding later on. Placing a dry, clean washcloth beneath each brake pedal might be helpful.
7. After completing step 6, open the reservoir cover on one of the master cylinders and slowly pour fresh brake fluid into the tank until it is just below the brim. By tilting the container just enough to allow air bubbles to rise to the top, you can make sure the liquid is free of them. Air bubbles stand out against brake fluid’s clean tint.
8. If necessary, repeat Step 7 for all other master cylinders (if your car has four or six wheels). Always replenish after bleeding each tire to ensure that there is no more air between fills and to lessen the possibility of running out of braking fluid.
9. After filling the reservoirs with new brake fluid and bleeding each tire, replace the reservoir covers and take all equipment out from under the car.
10. To remove any extra air from the system, start your car’s engine and depress each brake pedal 20 times (it will take less effort than before because there is no more air in the lines). Put your car in neutral if it doesn’t have an automatic transmission so you can rev the engine a little without moving.
11. Follow Step 10 again until the brake pedals feel firm once again, and then turn off the engine. Now, your car should stop as smoothly as it did when its brakes were in good condition! If you want the computer in your car to know that you’ve closed all the windows and that the brake fluid is full, you might find it helpful to cycle the ignition a few times.
12. Drive around the block to check how well your brakes are functioning (but keep in mind that this is not a substitute for a proper test carried out at a mechanic’s shop using calibrated equipment). If everything looks good, you can proceed.
The Causes of Air Bubbles brake lines:
*Bubbles can form if an extremely porous brake line is barely touching another component of the brake system. Even little amounts of trapped air cause “bubbles” in the hydraulic systems of your brakes because of the pressure your foot exerts on the pedal as you drive.
*When you apply the brakes, the lines are jostled around and some air is forced into the transport tubes inside the brake lines on each wheel. Air pockets will form inside them when they are moved around by the motions of your car throughout this process if any vehicle parts are touching one another or if there is a lot of water inside a hose.
*To sustain performance in the majority of autos, fresh brake fluid must be added at least once every two brake jobs. When the automobile rests for a while or is replaced with new fluid, air bubbles may form because some brake fluids can eventually absorb water, especially if they are used frequently in cold weather.
*If your mechanic doesn’t completely drain the old fluid from your system before doing brake work, air bubbles could potentially form (this may happen if you only got new brake pads instead of new rotors). Before starting maintenance, you should always find out how your mechanic intends to remove extra fluid from your brakes.
The Solutions:
*Be sure to wait until you’ve completed bleeding all of your car’s brakes before removing the reservoir cover from any master cylinder to prevent producing air pockets.
*Checking your brake lines for cracks, breaks, and other damage can help you identify potential hydraulic system issues with your automobile fast. If you notice any rust, cracks, bumps, hisses, damp regions, dry spots, or bubbles inside your automobile on the road or outside your house, it could be a good idea to call a mechanic to take a look at it.
*Releasing all brake pressure by lifting your foot off the pedal and slowly pumping the brakes until your car stops is the most basic method of identifying air bubbles. This should solve the issue completely if there are no air pockets inside the lines. This procedure can be repeated as often as required to produce the desired effects.
*You can blow out an air bubble in your brake lines by gradually applying the brakes until the bubbles are completely gone. You should also be able to expel any air pockets if you rev your engine without depressing the pedal by leveraging the momentum the car develops after it starts moving ahead.