To keep their vehicles in top condition, Toyota and Lexus advise following the application instructions provided by the paint manufacturer for every paint finish repair, per an updated CRIB No. 17. Therefore, it is advised avoiding combining transparent coatings with solvent.
In This Article...
Where are the color codes for my vehicle located?
All Toyota automobiles have paint codes that correspond to a certain color. They are fortunately simple to locate.
You can get the precise OEM paint color for your Toyota’s year, model, make, and color by using the color code.
After the initials “C/TR” on the label, there will be a three-digit code. Your paint code is the following 3 digits. Both letters and digits are possible.
demonstrating a sample label, the location of the color code, and what to check for.
Where to Buy Paint
The top-rated source is OEM paint producer AutomotiveTouchup by Microfinish.
Microfinish offers excellent price, guarantees a color match, has high-quality OEM paint, and is utilized by specialists in the field.
Only a few auto paint producers specialize in the high-tech production of on-demand exact match automobile paint. They can ensure that the color of your Toyota will match.
Pros:
Cons:
Toyota private labels paint obtained from an OEM paint provider rather than producing its own paint.
Toyota Clear Paint Protection: What is it?
Fort Walton Beach Toyota A clear-coated film is used to create Clear Paint Protection, which is meant to withstand the elements experienced during regular driving. The edge of the painted sheet metal is covered with the protective film’s adhesive backing.
Are Toyota paints brittle?
Regular readers of the Ask A Pro Blog have heard us discuss various paint hardness levels and the procedures we had to employ to meet the requirements on that specific car. Those of us who detail for a living are also well aware of the wide range of paint hardness and some of the issues they provide, especially at the extreme ends of the spectrum (granite-like hardness, or butter softness).
What’s the finest mixture to use on my hard/soft paint? and “How do I determine if the paint is soft or hard? ” are arguably the two most commonly asked questions that the blog’s authors receive. The first question can be answered quite simply, while the second cannot.
In terms of paint hardness, there are a lot of patterns from the manufacturers that we may learn via experience. We’ve learned that hard paint is often used by automakers like Audi, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Volkswagen, BMW, and Mercedes, whereas soft paint is typically used by Porsche, Honda/Acura, and Toyota/Lexus (the majority of Japanese manufacturers). Regarding American manufacturers, they range from mild to firm, and even while working with the same car, they can differ from factory to factory. However, these are only suggestions because some brands have at least one automobile or color that is on the opposite end of the spectrum from the rest. For example, while most colors from BMW would be hard paint, their Jet Black is quite soft. Additionally, manufacturers might alter their paint from year to year, so just because one manufacturer’s paint code has been exceptionally soft for a number of years doesn’t guarantee that ALL years of that same paint code/name will be similarly soft. Just to be clear, these are only recommendations, and there are a ton of exceptions. Because of this, a complete test section on each car is required to establish the right mixture for paint correction and to identify how hard or soft a paint is.
Therefore, there are two ways to approach the first question’s response. The first is from experience and knowing a specific car’s color, year, and normal paint reactions. The second method involves conducting a test section to ascertain how the paint is responding. If you use a light polish and pad combination at first and notice little to no improvement, you know the paint is hard and you should start with more aggressive combinations to determine what will give you the best cut and finish.
The answer to the second query, “What is the ideal combination?,” is more difficult to give considering the number of factors we frequently encounter when polishing. You would also need to use the same machine, backing plate, and technique in addition to the pad and polish combination if I have a tried-and-true combination that consistently produces good results on a particular car; for more information, see my article on The 5 Key Elements of Proper Paint Polishing.
But what if someone needs help and is having trouble compounding on a hard paint or finish-polishing on a soft paint? I frequently get similar calls, texts, and emails, and I can’t just say, “Try this comboit works fantastic!.” Finding the right machine, backing plate, pad, polish, and method requires scientific testing once more because there are so many different factors at play.
You must be skilled and knowledgeable with a wide range of machines, pads, polishes, and techniques if you work as a detailer on a wide range of paint systems and levels of paint correction because you will come across particularly hard or soft paints that call for a lot of trial and error to determine the best course of action. When confronted with the extremes on the hard/soft scale, those who restrict themselves to a small number of items will simply be unable to execute at a high level.
All things considered, however, we may simplify our strategy when working with the outer reaches of the hardness scale by dividing it into two basic truths.
Toyota uses water-based paint, right?
Today, TokyoTOYOTA MOTOR CORPORATION (TMC) said that it had created a new car painting technique for use with water-based paints, which have little adverse effects on the environment. In August, TMC started implementing this ground-breaking technique on its painting lines.
With the help of a robotic paint sprayer with a cartridge-style tank, the new technology enables the use of water-based paints in electrostatic painting, a process known for its great coverage efficiency and high productivity. Additionally, frequent and prompt paint color changes are possible with this new spraying apparatus. Furthermore, only one tenth as much paint thinner as is used in typical painting systems is required to clean the inside of the equipment during color changes.
An undercoat, also known as primer, a middle coat, sometimes known as surfacer, a base coat, and a clear coat are the four layers that make up a typical automotive metallic body painting. Except for primer, organic solvents were the most often used solvent medium for paints in paint sprayers for many years. This is because it is simple to obtain the necessary electrostatic charge for the painting process as well as to maintain some degree of control over the viscosity of an organic solvent.
However, using such solvents produces effluent and vapor that could be harmful to the environment. As a result, TMC has been working diligently to increase paint application efficiency and recover thinner used for cleaning, resulting in a 64g/m2 reduction in the amount of solvent discharge VOC* on painting lines. However, the introduction of the new water-based paint technology has reduced that number by almost half.
The inherent difficulty of controlling the viscosity of water-based paints can result in varying paint quality due to variations in the application environment, such as changes in temperature and humidity. Moreover, electrostatic
Regular water-based paints do not increase productivity when painted with. These problems have been handled by TMC by creating a metallic water-based paint that has a much higher productivity than in the past and is not easily influenced by the working environment.
Furthermore, it is now possible to create an electrostatic charge directly in the paint itself for the best coverage effectiveness by employing this paint in a tiny, cartridge-type paint tank connected to a robot paint sprayer. The VOC in painting processes at TMC’s Takaoka Plant was lowered to 35g/m2 by using the new technique for applying the base coat, which has the highest volume of solvent discharge, resulting in one of the most ecologically friendly painting lines in the world.
In order to fully integrate the low-impact technology and further safeguard the environment, TMC intends to progressively extend application of this technology to additional plants. Additionally, it is being developed for application of the surfacer coat and the clear coat utilizing powder-type paints.
Volatile organic compounds is a catch-all phrase for both organic solvents and volatile organic substances. (VOCs are measured in weights per 1m2 of paint covering, the same as solvent discharge.)
The value of Toyota clear paint protection
It depends, is the response. We’ve discovered that there are a few various ways that individuals perceive their automobiles, how they take care of them, what kind of appearance they anticipate from them, and how long they intend to keep them. You might fall into one of these categories; if so, we can share with you what our clients have told us about the importance of paint protection film:
“I want my car perfect, all the time for as long as I own it.
Paint protection film is unquestionably worthwhile if you’re the kind of person who wants your automobile to be flawless, with glossy paint, and plans to keep the value to the highest degree. Paint protection film is almost imperceptible, self-healing to prevent swirls, and comes with a 10-year warranty. In order to maintain the value of your car, the film aids in preventing rock chips, pitting, scrapes, and scratches from emerging. This helps you recover a greater resale value on your vehicle when it’s time to move on, making it excellent for any car, from a Ferrari to a Honda. When compared to the Very Good category, which allows for minor blemishes like rock chips, cars in the Excellent Condition category from KBB have a resale value that is 10-15% greater. This can result in a significant increase in the value of a car, especially more expensive models.
“I can live with rock chips on my car and consider it common wear and tear
PPF might not be worthwhile as an investment for your new vehicle, though, if you don’t mind a few rock chips here and there. PPF may not always be the best option, and in those cases we usually advise a ceramic coating that makes it easier to keep your car clean and glossy.
If you want to know what is best for you, consider these questions:
Once you’ve established whether paint protection film is the best solution for you, it’s time to consider your installation alternatives. Find a skilled, reliable installer who is affiliated with reputable, long-standing brands on the market, like XPEL or Suntek, who both make significant investments in their products, are publicly traded corporations, and offer 10 year guarantees. A good installer will be able to show you several samples of their work, complete installations that are practically invisible, and who generally takes pride in their work. A great installer will demonstrate why their installations are excellent by highlighting the small aspects that contribute to the installation as a whole. This is what we refer to as the final 10%, which many installers pass through in order to speed up the installation. Simply put, we strive to provide premium, unique installs since that’s what we’d like for our own cars.
You can be sure to appreciate the installation and have faith that it will last for years to protect your vehicle if you work with a quality installer who takes pride in their work, concentrates on evolving the install to exceed your expectations, backs their work beyond the manufacturer warranty, and can provide numerous references.
Toyota does it provide ceramic coating?
Our services are far superior to conventional wax or paint sealant processes because we are accredited and certified to offer and work with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra, IGL Kenzo, and Ceramic Pro Sport Ceramic Coatings. These specialized formulas are made to meticulously protect your Toyota or Lexus.
- very hydrophobic (repels water)
- UV defense for years (resists oxidation)
- resistance to scratching
- high gloss levels
The cost of our ceramic coating packages, excluding paint correction services, starts at $600. We also provide a variety of detailing packages, including full-service detailing, which includes exterior and interior detailing, a single-stage polish, and a six-month sealant.
Do brand-new automobiles have clear coat?
The clear coat finish is present on almost all modern automobiles. Contrary to common perception, regular automobile waxing is necessary to preserve a car in excellent condition, even if it has been painted with clear coat.
How can I know if the paint on my automobile is clear?
I was talking to a friend the other day about the paint job on an Acura Integra Type R that he’s currently rebuilding. We were talking about how much vitality a paint job could restore to the car. My initial thought was that the paint was single stage and didn’t have a clear coat because of how dark and faded it appeared to be. He said that he thought the car had base/clear paint since he saw bits of clear paint fly off the bumper while pressure washing it (the automobile truly needs a complete, quality paint job).
I insisted that the majority of the car’s clear coat was still the original single stage despite the clear coat’s somewhat primitive proof. What caused that? Because he had also secretly carried out a simple but effective test. He had attempted to use a cleaner wax over the rest of the automobile when he saw that the towel was changing the paint’s color. You can clearly see from this that you’re working with single-stage paint.
Later that evening, he went home to research it and discovered that Pheonix Yellow Integra Type Rs were in fact painted in one coat. The bumper’s flaking clear finish was probably redone at some point by a budget body shop.
It’s important to note that I don’t have experience in the auto body industry. This is solely from the standpoint of a detailer. My own personal Toyota MR2 still has its original single stage paint despite the fact that I’ve corrected the paint on numerous other cars over the years (the most of them clear coated). The purpose of this post is to describe how I distinguish between, maintain, and safeguard these 2 various sorts of paint systems.
What is single stage paint?
Single stage painting is essentially just regular painting with no clear coat on top. Due to the fact that clear coated vehicles have a different base coat (color) on top of a clear coat, they may be referred to as “Two Stage” vehicles.
While some colors still available by some automakers are single stage now, single stage paint is more frequently encountered on older automobiles. For instance, single stage paint is still frequently used on white Toyota trucks.
They might use single stage on their white trucks for the following reasons:
- White is the color that exhibits the least oxidation.
- Many of the white trucks that are ordered are work trucks that will likely have graphics applied to them or possibly be painted to match the company’s branding. To save money, single-stage paint might be employed.
Although I can’t say for certain why certain firms continue to employ single stage paint on their contemporary automobiles, these explanations seem plausible to me.
In the 1980s and 1990s, single-stage paints were widely used on Japanese automobiles. White, black, red, and yellow were non-metallic colors that frequently only had one stage. In contrast to modern cars, which have clear coatings with a stronger finish, these paint jobs typically tended to be softer and more scratch-prone. There are obviously many exceptions to this rule. Some single-stage paints are hard, and some recently manufactured cars have clear coatings that are soft. However, that is a subject for another day.
Clear coat vs. no clear coat
The painting procedure is the main factor in the differences between base/clear and single stage paint. I won’t claim to be an authority on it as I’m not an auto body guy.
However, once paint has been sprayed on an automobile, the typical car owner will only notice two differences:
1) If single-stage paint is left out in the sun unprotected for a long time, it is more likely to oxidize. Single stage oxidized paint has a very flat, chalky appearance. Typically, exposed single stage paint is to blame when you discover a pink car that was once red.
Even clear coat can oxidize, but it won’t be as obvious to the naked eye. How come? since the top coat is meant to be transparent. So the contrast between how it seems and how it should appear isn’t that great when it becomes drab, white, and foggy. On the other hand, the yellow single stage paint’s top coat is just yellow. This makes the contrast when it becomes dull, whitish, and hazy quite obvious.
2) Color spills from single-stage paint onto buffing pads and cloths (or anything used as an abrasive). Once you start polishing it, you will be able to tell if you’re working with single stage paint or not. After that, you can stop speculating because it will always tell you!
Is it safe to polish single stage paint?
This is a typical misunderstanding regarding single stage paint. It may seem intimidating at first, but wet compounding, polishing, and sanding are quite safeas long as there is enough of it remaining on the car! The trouble is, if someone is unfamiliar with it or does not anticipate seeing it, it might truly surprise them. I can see why it could surprise them.
Because while polishing a single step, the largest red flag indicating you’ve burned through the clear coat is the same as every other day. Your towels and buffing pad pick up the color. It’s disastrous if this occurs while polishing a base/clear paint job. It indicates that you have gone way, way too faryou have touched the base (color) coat after removing all of the transparent coat.
Because they’ll be the ones rectifying your mistake, you might want to bring them some coffee or donuts.
When working with single stage paint, color bleed onto your polishing pad is completely typical. Without a doubt, if you’re not used to it, it’s unsettling. If I polish my red MR2, my garage will resemble a bloody crime scene!
The fact that individuals can see the paint they are removing when polishing single stage paint, in my opinion, is what causes the most anxiety in people. When performing a base/clear paint repair, this doesn’t take place. The paint you are removing is transparent, and frequently the compound or polishing chemical you are using is white as well. Therefore, you probably won’t see all of the paint residue and used product building up on your pad if you’re using a white polish on a white polishing pad.
However, do not misinterpret
It exists. When polishing a clear coat, the amount of paint removed is exactly the same as when using a single stage. Simply said, you miss it. When a pad is loaded or unclean, experts in paint correction can determine by other signs, such as how the paint is cutting or how much dust is emanating from the pad. But to the untrained eye, there appears to be no paint removal.
When performing a paint repair, I believe a certain amount of healthy apprehension is required. You’ll gain a newfound respect for the task once you’ve polished single stage paint and understand how much paint is removed during the process. When waxing your car, being overconfident might lead to major damage. It WILL harm you if you can’t see it!
Are all new cars clear coated?
As was already established, clear coatings are not standard on all new cars. But the majority of them do. The occurrence of a white or black car with single stage paint is becoming increasingly unusual.
Tinted clear coat is a perplexing third form of paint that some contemporary automakers are utilizing. This isn’t very frequent and typically only appears on some of the more expensive “specific hues for paint. Just two of the companies with a history of using tinted clear coatings are Lexus and Ford. They utilize it to partially mimic the appearance of sweets or to really fine-tune the depth of a hue.
Tinted clear coat might be mistaken for single stage paint when polished. It will still appear on your buffing pad. I’ve already assured you that polishing single stage paint poses no danger. However, when working on a tinted clear coat, there is reason for worry.
The polishing of tinted clear coat is significantly riskier than that of single-stage or standard clear coat. The tinted transparent, which has a significant impact on the car’s true color, is the cause. For illustration purposes, consider a car that has been painted candy red. This hue is stunning in every way. The color is rich, shiny, and even contains a lovely metal flake. But when you polish it, you have to be quite cautious.
due to the clear coat’s being “If you remove too much of the red tint, the car’s color will really change. If you’re making a constant pass across the entire car, this is awful. If you’re only attempting to buff out a scratch in a specific location, this is terrible. You face the significant danger of leaving a spot of paint with a red color that is quite distinct. So be careful when polishing a colored clear coat!