I recently received a response from one of the territory managers I know, who stated that, while he was unsure of the specifics, a few single stage colors were in use until at least 2014. The employment of single stage white is still prevalent, according to a director of sales in Texas who just spoke.
Posts made in other forums in 2009:
Greetings, Mr. XXXXXXX
Your Tundra’s Super White paint was a one-stage paint finish. There is no clear coat finish on non-metallic colored painted vehicles. Clear coat is the finish on paints that come in metallic or pearl varieties.
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How can you tell if the paint on your car is clear?
I was talking to a friend the other day about the paint job on an Acura Integra Type R that he’s currently rebuilding. We were talking about how much vitality a paint job could restore to the car. My initial thought was that the paint was single stage and didn’t have a clear coat because of how dark and faded it appeared to be. He said that he thought the car had base/clear paint since he saw bits of clear paint fly off the bumper while pressure washing it (the automobile truly needs a complete, quality paint job).
I insisted that the majority of the car’s clear coat was still the original single stage despite the clear coat’s somewhat primitive proof. What caused that? Because he had also secretly carried out a simple but effective test. He had attempted to use a cleaner wax over the rest of the automobile when he saw that the towel was changing the paint’s color. You can clearly see from this that you’re working with single-stage paint.
Later that evening, he went home to research it and discovered that Pheonix Yellow Integra Type Rs were in fact painted in one coat. The bumper’s flaking clear finish was probably redone at some point by a budget body shop.
It’s important to note that I don’t have experience in the auto body industry. This is solely from the standpoint of a detailer. My own personal Toyota MR2 still has its original single stage paint despite the fact that I’ve corrected the paint on numerous other cars over the years (the most of them clear coated). The purpose of this post is to describe how I distinguish between, maintain, and safeguard these 2 various sorts of paint systems.
What is single stage paint?
Single stage painting is essentially just regular painting with no clear coat on top. Due to the fact that clear coated vehicles have a different base coat (color) on top of a clear coat, they may be referred to as “Two Stage” vehicles.
While some colors still available by some automakers are single stage now, single stage paint is more frequently encountered on older automobiles. For instance, single stage paint is still frequently used on white Toyota trucks.
They might use single stage on their white trucks for the following reasons:
- White is the color that exhibits the least oxidation.
- Many of the white trucks that are ordered are work trucks that will likely have graphics applied to them or possibly be painted to match the company’s branding. To save money, single-stage paint might be employed.
Although I can’t say for certain why certain firms continue to employ single stage paint on their contemporary automobiles, these explanations seem plausible to me.
In the 1980s and 1990s, single-stage paints were widely used on Japanese automobiles. White, black, red, and yellow were non-metallic colors that frequently only had one stage. In contrast to modern cars, which have clear coatings with a stronger finish, these paint jobs typically tended to be softer and more scratch-prone. There are obviously many exceptions to this rule. Some single-stage paints are hard, and some recently manufactured cars have clear coatings that are soft. However, that is a subject for another day.
Clear coat vs. no clear coat
The painting procedure is the main factor in the differences between base/clear and single stage paint. I won’t claim to be an authority on it as I’m not an auto body guy.
However, once paint has been sprayed on an automobile, the typical car owner will only notice two differences:
1) If single-stage paint is left out in the sun unprotected for a long time, it is more likely to oxidize. Single stage oxidized paint has a very flat, chalky appearance. Typically, exposed single stage paint is to blame when you discover a pink car that was once red.
Even clear coat can oxidize, but it won’t be as obvious to the naked eye. How come? since the top coat is meant to be transparent. So the contrast between how it seems and how it should appear isn’t that great when it becomes drab, white, and foggy. On the other hand, the yellow single stage paint’s top coat is just yellow. This makes the contrast when it becomes dull, whitish, and hazy quite obvious.
2) Color spills from single-stage paint onto buffing pads and cloths (or anything used as an abrasive). Once you start polishing it, you will be able to tell if you’re working with single stage paint or not. After that, you can stop speculating because it will always tell you!
Is it safe to polish single stage paint?
This is a typical misunderstanding regarding single stage paint. It may seem intimidating at first, but wet compounding, polishing, and sanding are quite safeas long as there is enough of it remaining on the car! The trouble is, if someone is unfamiliar with it or does not anticipate seeing it, it might truly surprise them. I can see why it could surprise them.
Because while polishing a single step, the largest red flag indicating you’ve burned through the clear coat is the same as every other day. Your towels and buffing pad pick up the color. It’s disastrous if this occurs while polishing a base/clear paint job. It indicates that you have gone way, way too faryou have touched the base (color) coat after removing all of the transparent coat.
Because they’ll be the ones rectifying your mistake, you might want to bring them some coffee or donuts.
When working with single stage paint, color bleed onto your polishing pad is completely typical. Without a doubt, if you’re not used to it, it’s unsettling. If I polish my red MR2, my garage will resemble a bloody crime scene!
The fact that individuals can see the paint they are removing when polishing single stage paint, in my opinion, is what causes the most anxiety in people. When performing a base/clear paint repair, this doesn’t take place. The paint you are removing is transparent, and frequently the compound or polishing chemical you are using is white as well. Therefore, you probably won’t see all of the paint residue and used product building up on your pad if you’re using a white polish on a white polishing pad.
However, do not misinterpret
It exists. When polishing a clear coat, the amount of paint removed is exactly the same as when using a single stage. Simply said, you miss it. When a pad is loaded or unclean, experts in paint correction can determine by other signs, such as how the paint is cutting or how much dust is emanating from the pad. But to the untrained eye, there appears to be no paint removal.
When performing a paint repair, I believe a certain amount of healthy apprehension is required. You’ll gain a newfound respect for the task once you’ve polished single stage paint and understand how much paint is removed during the process. When waxing your car, being overconfident might lead to major damage. It WILL harm you if you can’t see it!
Are all new cars clear coated?
As was already established, clear coatings are not standard on all new cars. But the majority of them do. The occurrence of a white or black car with single stage paint is becoming increasingly unusual.
Tinted clear coat is a perplexing third form of paint that some contemporary automakers are utilizing. This isn’t very frequent and typically only appears on some of the more expensive “specific hues for paint. Just two of the companies with a history of using tinted clear coatings are Lexus and Ford. They utilize it to partially mimic the appearance of sweets or to really fine-tune the depth of a hue.
Tinted clear coat might be mistaken for single stage paint when polished. It will still appear on your buffing pad. I’ve already assured you that polishing single stage paint poses no danger. However, when working on a tinted clear coat, there is reason for worry.
The polishing of tinted clear coat is significantly riskier than that of single-stage or standard clear coat. The tinted transparent, which has a significant impact on the car’s true color, is the cause. For illustration purposes, consider a car that has been painted candy red. This hue is stunning in every way. The color is rich, shiny, and even contains a lovely metal flake. But when you polish it, you have to be quite cautious.
due to the clear coat’s being “If you remove too much of the red tint, the car’s color will really change. If you’re making a constant pass across the entire car, this is awful. If you’re only attempting to buff out a scratch in a specific location, this is terrible. You face the significant danger of leaving a spot of paint with a red color that is quite distinct. So be careful when polishing a colored clear coat!
How to find out if you have single stage paint or base/clear
Fortunately, there are a few simple ways to determine whether or not you have single stage paint. To eyeball it is the first method. It’s a pretty clear indication that your red automobile is single stage if it appears pink.
Searching for your precise automobile and color on Google will also reveal whether you have single stage paint. It’s likely that you’ll find a forum post or other internet material stating whether or not it has a clear coat. Professional detailers enjoy sharing their work online, and occasionally they’ll include a job-related narrative. If it’s a common vehicle, a short search should turn up this information.
The drawback of relying on the internet is that your car might not be wearing its original paint, even though it may claim the manufacturer used single stage. It’s always possible that a car has been in an accident that wasn’t recorded and you weren’t aware of it. This could imply that one or two panels have been repainted, or it could mean that the entire automobile has been painted in the original color with a contemporary base/clear finish.
In light of this, you should evaluate your car physically to determine if it has a clear coat. Any kind of polish or abrasive compound can be applied on a cloth and used to rub the paint. This kind of light cleaning wax can work as well.
Select a discrete location to test, such as a door jam, the interior of a wheel well, or the lower portion of a bumper. Check to check if the towel remains clear after using one of these products or if it changes to the color of the automobile. You have a clear coat if it continues to be clear. If the color changes, the paint is single stage.
How to care for single stage paint
Maintaining paint without a clear coat is very similar to maintaining any other paint work. You are welcome to apply your preferred waxes or sealants on it. They will perform and apply in the same manner.
I discussed using Gtechniq’s coating on my MR2 with a sales representative from that business, which makes my favorite ceramic coatings. He assured me that applying the ceramic coating over single-stage paint is quite acceptable. The only negative is that it can be a little trickier than when working with a clear coat to buff off excess or remove high areas.
The paint of your car should always be protected, in my opinion. However, given the potential for oxidation that we already discussed, protecting single stage paint is much more crucial. Keep in mind that exposed paint to the sun without protection can oxidize. If your beloved property has single stage paint, it would be wise to store it in a garage and use at least a premium paint sealant.
So is not having a clear coat on your vehicle a bad thing?
Ultimately, it’s not nearly as significant as people make it out to be. Online, I’ve seen comments from owners of specific cars who were devastated to learn that their cherished automobile only had single stage paint. It may not always be detrimental. It doesn’t imply that scratching won’t be as difficult. It won’t be any less sparkling just because of it. It’s simply an alternative brand of paint from a different time period. Because the before-and-after effects of single stage paint can be so amazing, I personally like using it.
One last piece of advise before I let you go: if you’re going to polish your single stage paint, wear old clothes!
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Do modern automobiles have clear coats?
The clear coat finish is present on almost all modern automobiles. Contrary to common perception, regular automobile waxing is necessary to preserve a car in excellent condition, even if it has been painted with clear coat.
Toyota uses either soft or hard paint.
Regular readers of the Ask A Pro Blog have heard us discuss various paint hardness levels and the procedures we had to employ to meet the requirements on that specific car. Those of us who detail for a living are also well aware of the wide range of paint hardness and some of the issues they provide, especially at the extreme ends of the spectrum (granite-like hardness, or butter softness).
What’s the finest mixture to use on my hard/soft paint? and “How do I determine if the paint is soft or hard? ” are arguably the two most commonly asked questions that the blog’s authors receive. The first question can be answered quite simply, while the second cannot.
In terms of paint hardness, there are a lot of patterns from the manufacturers that we may learn via experience. We’ve learned that hard paint is often used by automakers like Audi, Lamborghini, Ferrari, Volkswagen, BMW, and Mercedes, whereas soft paint is typically used by Porsche, Honda/Acura, and Toyota/Lexus (the majority of Japanese manufacturers). Regarding American manufacturers, they range from mild to firm, and even while working with the same car, they can differ from factory to factory. However, these are only suggestions because some brands have at least one automobile or color that is on the opposite end of the spectrum from the rest. For example, while most colors from BMW would be hard paint, their Jet Black is quite soft. Additionally, manufacturers might alter their paint from year to year, so just because one manufacturer’s paint code has been exceptionally soft for a number of years doesn’t guarantee that ALL years of that same paint code/name will be similarly soft. Just to be clear, these are only recommendations, and there are a ton of exceptions. Because of this, a complete test section on each car is required to establish the right mixture for paint correction and to identify how hard or soft a paint is.
Therefore, there are two ways to approach the first question’s response. The first is from experience and knowing a specific car’s color, year, and normal paint reactions. The second method involves conducting a test section to ascertain how the paint is responding. If you use a light polish and pad combination at first and notice little to no improvement, you know the paint is hard and you should start with more aggressive combinations to determine what will give you the best cut and finish.
The answer to the second query, “What is the ideal combination?,” is more difficult to give considering the number of factors we frequently encounter when polishing. You would also need to use the same machine, backing plate, and technique in addition to the pad and polish combination if I have a tried-and-true combination that consistently produces good results on a particular car; for more information, see my article on The 5 Key Elements of Proper Paint Polishing.
But what if someone needs help and is having trouble compounding on a hard paint or finish-polishing on a soft paint? I frequently get similar calls, texts, and emails, and I can’t just say, “Try this comboit works fantastic!.” Finding the right machine, backing plate, pad, polish, and method requires scientific testing once more because there are so many different factors at play.
You must be skilled and knowledgeable with a wide range of machines, pads, polishes, and techniques if you work as a detailer on a wide range of paint systems and levels of paint correction because you will come across particularly hard or soft paints that call for a lot of trial and error to determine the best course of action. When confronted with the extremes on the hard/soft scale, those who restrict themselves to a small number of items will simply be unable to execute at a high level.
All things considered, however, we may simplify our strategy when working with the outer reaches of the hardness scale by dividing it into two basic truths.