I continually receiving a triangle on my dash with an exclamation point and a yellow brake light. It randomly starts up and then shuts off. They topped out the brake fluid after I took it to the dealership to have it checked. but it’s now turning back on. Anyone with knowledge of the issue? thanks.
So, since the dealer filled it off, have you checked the brake fluid level again? You may have a brake system leak if your braking system required enough fluid to trigger the low brake fluid light. How does the pedal feel? When you apply consistent pressure, does it sag at all? When you overnight park, are there any moist areas close to the inside of the wheels?
I didn’t check the amount of the brake fluid. How can I go about doing that? Normally, the pedal feels. Lighting turns on and off. I therefore assume it is the sensor.
There is a sizable black plastic cover on the driver’s side beneath the hood, just where the gas strut—which keeps the hood up—attaches to the body. Both a front and a back clip are present. The brake fluid reservoir can be seen there if you lift it off.
Although I too prefer my eyeballs to any fluid level sensors (crankcase sump?! ), a YELLOW brake indication, according to the table in the non-iDrive handbook, indicates that the brakes are engaged “Drive-off assistant is not working. After the brake is disengaged, the car won’t be kept in position.” A red sign would be low fluid.
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Right and left front and rear brake calipers both have wear sensors that, when activated, demand that you replace both the sensor and your brake pads. Since brake pads are often consumable goods like petrol and oil, your guarantee may not apply.
If the problem is with the brake pads themselves, the (O) symbol and the Service indicator in the Check control will both be lit up. If the BRAKE light is on, there is a problem with the brake system, or in this example, I believe there is a low amount of brake fluid.
At my most recent hpde event this past weekend, I had a unique experience. following a couple turns and harsh braking. A yellow brake warning light appeared. I searched the user guide but couldn’t find anything about it. Anyone has any suggestions as to what causes it?
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Check to check what “Check Control” message is stored if the warning light is still on. Search using the tiny lever on the turn signal stalk until the “Check” warning icon appears on the dash. To read the message, press the enf button on the stalk.
Perhaps there is a simple issue with the vehicle’s braking fluid? How scuffed up are your pads? How much miles (front and back) do you still have according to your BC?
Well, the wear sensor was tripped and my pads are gone, lol. However, it did so when the pads were brand-new at the start of the weekend. Yes, I used up a brand-new set of nice carbons over the course of a weekend. It’s time for race pads.
Yes, BMW symbols are the best! If there is a circle with an exclamation point inside of it and parenthesis surrounding it, it implies that the “Drive-off assistant is not working. After the brake is disengaged, the car won’t be kept in position.” look at page 138.
Heavy braking causes this, however it soon resumes operation. It makes sense to me because you don’t want the brakes to be held on when they are really hot.
Time to revive an old thread. On my 2011 135i, this exact signal (a yellow brake exclamation point) went off today at a racing event. During heavy braking zones, the ABS was activated a couple of times.
The fluid level was at the full line after consulting the handbook. The brake sensors and pads are separated by ties.
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Hello. You cannot find out why this light is on using a scan tool. The brakes are worn out, so it is on. They require inspection, replacement of any worn-out parts, and installation of new wear sensors. When the pads are worn, the light is activated by these sensors. Consider YourMechanic if you wish to get it looked at; a qualified technician can visit your house or place of business to diagnose your brake system and ascertain which component(s) require replacement.
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How can you turn a BMW’s yellow brake light back on?
Check Out These Steps to Reset Your Brake Warning Light the ignition with the key (or key fob). While turning the key to position 2, avoid turning on the ignition. Open the driver’s door and hold it open for around ten seconds. The brake pad lights ought to reset once you’ve finished the aforementioned three steps.
Why is my BMW’s brake light on?
Another brake-related issue is worn brake pads. Your pads are represented by the BMW warning light symbol. If you notice a circle surrounded by broken parentheses, it’s time to schedule servicing and get them replaced.
Why is the yellow brake light on?
A similar warning light will normally appear if your brake fluid level is too low, but instead of being red, it will likely be yellow or amber. Anti-lock brakes have their own warning light and will automatically pump the brakes several times per second for better stopping in slick or emergency situations.
On a BMW 3 Series, how do you reset the brake warning light?
When it says “Reset,” push and hold the “BC” button on the turn signal stalk. When a small clock appears, release the button and push it back in while holding; when the clock image appears next to the reset, release the button. Restart the automobile as usual after turning it off. The service indicator for the brake light has now been reset.
How does the BMW wear sensor for brakes operate?
Electronic brake pad wear sensors are now installed in a wide range of contemporary vehicles, especially European vehicles. They inform you when it’s time to replace your brake pads with a brand-new set. But how do they function? And how frequently do they require replacement?
The conventional metal squealer tabs that are more frequently used in braking systems are replaced by electronic brake pad wear sensors. When the pads have reached the end of their useful life, these tabs continue to function by rubbing against the rotor. It alerts the driver that the brakes need maintenance by emitting a loud screech.
In addition to the scream, this has the drawback that most drivers tend to ignore the warning since they believe the sound will ultimately stop. Electronic brake wear sensors take care of this noise and provide a more precise indication of the remaining life of the brake pads.
Once the brake pad has worn sufficiently for the sensor to make contact with the brake rotor, the wear sensors are intended to break or complete a circuit. The dash will typically illuminate with a warning light when the brake pads need to be changed.
Basic brake wear systems typically implant a sensor inside the inner brake pad at each corner of the car. However, from vehicle to vehicle, the number of wheels with sensors and their positioning on the brake pad can differ. These systems merely have a wire loop that is conducting a little amount of current.
Brake wear sensors in the modern day have a few new tricks up their sleeves. Not only do they alert the driver when brake maintenance is necessary, but they can also predict how long your existing brake pads will last. These ruse sensors, sometimes termed as twostage sensors, operate with two parallel resistor circuits at two depths. The resistance in the sensor rises as the initial resistive circuit fails. In order to determine how much life is still left in your brake pads, this is utilized to collect data such as wheel speed, brake pressure, brake disc temperature, brake operation time, and mileage. This is typically shown in the information center of your automobile or as a warning light that changes color as the pad ages. The circuit becomes open when the second circuit is disrupted. This sets off the brake service indicator light, alerting you that it’s time.
Braking pad wear sensors are not reusable because they are made to break or complete a circuit by making contact with the brake rotor. With each change of brake pads, wear sensors for the brakes should be updated. To fit a variety of automobiles, Bendix offers brake pad wear sensors. For the majority of common makes, our Bendix Euro+ Brake Pads also include all required clips, shims, and sensors, so you’ll be ready for your upcoming brake pad replacement. At your next service, request Bendix brakes from your mechanic.
The majority of popular makes and models are guaranteed to fit with Bendix’s brake wear sensors. Visit to determine if your local Bendix stockist has brake sensors that will work with your vehicle.
What type of braking fluid is employed by BMW?
It’s time for my two-year brake fluid flush, and because the car is no longer covered by a warranty or maintenance plan, this is the first time I’ll be doing it myself.
It’s an everyday driver. During rush hour, the interstate traffic is frequently stop-and-go. On the track never.
My concern is: For better protection, should I stick with the stock BMW brake fluid or should I swap to another brand? Or would it not be required?
DOT-4 brake fluid is used in every new BMW. Sometimes it is difficult to find, or you can only obtain synthetic DOT-3/DOT-4. I purchased some DOT-4 (“Super 4”) under the Pentosin (German) name at a business that sells vehicle parts for imports. A 1L can and a 1/2L can cost me $16.
Many individuals also utilize the ATE brand, specifically the ATE200 or the ATE super-blue (gold colored).
Thanks. I suppose my biggest concern was whether there was any legitimate justification for me to use something other than OEM brake fluid. especially while I’m driving like I normally do. Would using an aftermarket fluid give me any observable benefits?
In a day-to-day driving scenario, there will be no advantage to ANY DOT 4 over another. I’ve used Valvoline DOT3/DOT4 in numerous BMWs for about ten years. Cheap and simple to find (AutoZone).
If you’re not wasteful, one liter or quart should be sufficient. It wouldn’t hurt to purchase two so you have enough for top-off or the next time.
I also concur with this. Currently, I have Valvoline in both my Z3 and E90. I merely desired a change to something different. Since Pentosin is the original equipment manufacturer’s power steering oil, I assumed that their brake fluid would be adequate for the brake system. It wasn’t too expensive either.
I think Castrol LMA is BMW’s OEM. I was told that many years ago by a parts specialist at Tischer BMW, and I used it for my E30 for a very long period.
Under typical driving circumstances, we advise sticking to the authentic BMW fluid (found HERE).
Flushing is made a little bit easier by switching between blue and yellow on the ATE. Although there is nothing wrong with OEM for daily/street driving, ATE’s price is quite reasonable for a high temperature fluid.