I’m attempting to unplug a pin from the FEM harness in the foot well as well as the headlight connector. I purchased the connector removal kit shown in the image on eBay, but I’m not sure how to utilize it. Does removing these wires from the plugs require a special technique?
To release the pin from the appropriate housing, different approaches must be taken for each type of connector.
To better understand how to unlock the pins for each type of connector, I suggest that you watch this video. If the existing pin locks in just fine after completion of your job, you can choose to reuse it rather than crimp a new one.
Thank you, that video did help to clarify things a bit. I’ll have to look more carefully at the plugs to check for locking tabs. Finding the right pins to crimp on the ends of the wires sounds like the tricky part; if not, cutting and splicing might be your only choice.
When I was wiring my seats, the plug slipped out, and there were locking tabs on the side that you had to push in order to release the wires. as in this picture
There are some tabs on the back of the headlight plug that I thought could release it and allow me to disassemble it, but I was unable.
There appear to be two removable internal plugs in the connector to the FEM module. There are many little wires because the connector has 54 pins. I didn’t try to take that apart, but it seems like if I’m going to take those apart and replace the wire, I’ll need to find crimp on pins for both connectors.
The headlight plug does allow you to remove the outside cover. This document’s pages 5, 6, and 7 demonstrate how to do so. It was challenging for me, and I sure shattered a few tabs, hehe.
It should resemble the image in squibby’s post above, albeit with a different shape for the FEM connectors. The exposed silver tab is depressed by inserting the pin tool into the hole and dragging the wire out slowly.
Amazing, the pins even have component numbers. I’ll have to check to see if anyone is selling those. I considered soldering, shrink-sleaving, and cutting it a foot from the connectors. It would be better if I could find the right pins.
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phrider
Does this tool make it easier to remove connector pins? or expanding the connectors’ pin count? the two?
I am specifically changing, adding, and/or removing male pins from the alarm interface connector on the MZ series.
Circular pin connectors must be removed
Numerous plastic parts on my 8 are steadily deteriorating with age and need to be replaced.
Additionally, there is a circular connector with pins that runs through the large loop in that component (item 16 below; the names of those pins are unknown):
Could someone please explain to me how to remove the base of the connector from the battery base housing as I don’t want to break this item given how my plastic parts are aging?
Are you referring to taking out the pins? For it, there is a picture and a description in this. How about taking the connector out of the ring? I’m not sure about the battery cables, but with the headlamp configuration that is similar, there is a clamp ring that spins off, and you can take the connector out with no difficulty.
Could someone please explain to me how to remove the base of the connector from the battery base housing as I don’t want to break this item given how my plastic parts are aging?
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Simply remove the screw at position 18 to remove the connector from the back.
If you’re talking about head light connectors, I believe this is sold (the ring) as a piece of the wire harness and not as a separate component. It is simple to remove the connector from them supporting braced. There are cables coming from the connector on one side, pins coming through the hole on the other side, and a ring that needs to be unscrewed. More bayonets are used! Simply rotate it by 1/4. I always used pliers to grip the ring because I was never able to “open” it with just my fingers.
Archbid
I’m trying to undo some really inventive wiring that the PO of my touring had. One of the jobs was to switch out the autozone relay block that was dangling below the fuse box for a BMW relay block that would attach to the wiring bracket behind the glove box.
From a PnP, I retrieved a BMW fuse and block, however I found it difficult to unplug the connectors. To fully understand how it operated and discover a risk-free method for removing the connectors, I damaged one.
A two-prong standard connection removal tool should be inserted into the slots directly opposite the connector entrance. A Rennsteig 680-12093624 is what I’m utilizing.
Place a regular spade tool, pin, or tiny screwdriver along each of the connector’s narrow edges on the backside, where the wires enter. I made use of the subpar ones that are included in the inexpensive Chinese connector removal kits sold on Amazon.
3. The connector should side out about 8mm fairly easily with all of these tools in place, then bind somewhat. To remove the wire, grab the two tools (not the one on the connector’s face) and combine them with the wire.
Here is a picture of the equipment used:
You might not get a response because this is an old thread, and you might be restarting an old thread. Consider starting a new thread, please.
Tool for E30, E36, and E39 de-pin
OEM component number 83300495385 is replaced. (OEM Cost: USD $65) The cost of our tool is half that of an OEM dealership tool.
– Compatible with BMW engine harnesses from the E30, E36, and E39 eras. De-pins 4mm circular connections, both male and female. even de-pin the connector for the oxygen sensor. Connectors C101, C191, X20, X69, X6031, and X33 have all been verified as compatible.
– Constructed using an aluminum rod, brass, a steel spring, and a sturdy enclosure created using 3D printing (ASA)
– 3D printed parts have undergone an 8 foot drop test! (NOTE: An 8-foot drop will damage the brass tip.)
Depin Pro has a spring-loaded plunger that expels pins (see youtube video below). With the Depin Mini, you must remove the wire from the back (not as fast but completely adequate).
Which obd2 pin is used for power?
The OBD-II 16-pin diagnostic connector, often known as a J1962 connector, and its pin layout are shown in Figure 1. Pin 16 connects to the car’s battery and provides power. Ground is the connection between pins 4 and 5. CAN Bus High and CAN Bus Low signals are attached to pins 6 and 14, respectively. The SAE J1850 protocol is used on pins 2 and 10, with pin 2 used for positive and pin 10 for negative. ISO9141 protocol K-line and L-line are used on pins 7 and 15, respectively. A automobile manufacturer may use the empty pins 1, 3, 8, 9, 11, 12, and 13 for other uses.
1) Capable of interacting with the OBD-II interface. Each automaker has a preferred protocol that they follow.
- An international standard for data transmission over a CAN bus is ISO 15765. The CAN High and CAN Low lines make up the CAN protocol. Any time any data is transmitted, CAN High surpasses 3.75V. The CAN Low decreases to 1.25V concurrently. Both CAN High and CAN Low stay at 2.5V when the CAN bus is not transferring any data. The standard specifies a 1Mbps maximum data rate. Pins 6 and 14 are used to link CAN High and CAN Low, respectively.
- ISO 9141-2: ISO 9141-2 uses two signals—K and L—and is an asynchronous serial communication. K signal is essentially the medium used for most OBD-II communications. The bus’s initialization is accomplished using the L signal. The highest signal voltage is 12V and the maximum data rate is 10.4Kbps. Pins 7 and 15 of the OBD-II interface are used to connect the K-Line and L-Line, respectively.
- SAE J1850 (PWM): The Society of Automotive Engineers developed the SAE J1850 protocol (SAE). Pulse Width Modulation is used to implement SAE J1850 PWM using a differential transmission system. PWM signals move at a rate of 41.6 kbps. 5V is the maximum voltage level. Pins 2 and 10 of the OBD-II interface are used to connect the SAE J1850 Bus + and -, respectively.
- SAE J1850 (VPW): SAE J1850 VPW uses one signal line and one ground wire and is implemented using the variable pulse width approach. 10.4 kbps is the PWM signal rate. 7V is the maximum voltage level.
Can a roll pin be drilled out?
Do cobolt drills have enough force to move any material? The one I purchased from Machine Mart cannot compare, thus I assume the quality is inadequate.
If there is a center or you can create one, a masonry drill with a carbide tip—not an impact drill—might make contact with it.
OBD2 connectors—are they all the same?
With the OBD-II interface, five signaling protocols are supported. Only one of the protocols is used by the majority of cars. It is frequently feasible to determine the protocol by looking at the J1962 connector’s pin configuration:
- ISO 9141-2. The asynchronous serial data rate for this protocol is 10.4 kbps. It resembles RS-232 in several ways, however conversations take place on a single, bidirectional line without the use of additional handshake signals, and the signal levels differ. Chrysler, European, and Asian automakers mainly employ ISO 9141-2 in their automobiles.
- 7th pin: K-line
- 15th pin: L-line (optional)
- A UART signal
- 510 ohm resistor to Vbatt, K-line idles high
- With an open-collector driver, the active/dominant state is driven low.
- (250 kbit/s or 500 kbit/s) ISO 15765 CAN Bosch created the CAN protocol for use in industrial and automotive control. Variants of OBD are used extensively outside of the automotive industry, unlike other OBD protocols. Prior to 2003, CAN did not comply with OBD-II standards for US vehicles, but starting in 2008, all cars and trucks sold in the US must use CAN as one of their signaling protocols.
- CAN High on pin 6.
- pin 14: Low CAN
The same connector is used for all OBD-II pinouts, however different pins are used in each case, with the exception of pin 4 (battery ground) and pin 16. (battery positive).
Can a crimp be undone?
It is impossible to “uncrimp” a proper crimp, making it one of the greatest connections you can make (if not the best). It is impossible to “uncrimp” a proper crimp, making it one of the greatest connections you can make (if not the best).
What distinguishes a roll pin from a spring pin?
Roll pins and spring pins Spring Pins are hollow, cylindrical, tube-style press-fit fasteners with chamfered ends. They are also known as slotted pins, rolled pins, or coiled rolling pins. Rolled pins are utilized as shafts, anti-chafing surfaces, locking mechanisms, and positioning points for wiring.