How To Change Rear Shocks On BMW E46 Convertible?

To access the upper shock mount fasteners on a convertible, open the storage box on the convertible top.

Assembly

  • Put in the fresh springs. Ensure that the
  • construct the new shock assemblies with fresh and/or
  • the fresh shock assemblies in the
  • Place the reinforcement plates in position and tighten the
  • Place the car on a set of ramps by lowering it.
  • the internal liners, and other

craigyjoe

Hi everybody,

The mechanic claims that replacing the shocks on this model of car is a real pain in the rear and will take hours because he has to remove internal panels, carpeting in the boot, etc. I purchased the supplies and scheduled it for repair at my neighborhood garage.

Has anyone performed this task on a convertible, and if so, how difficult is it? If not, he will undoubtedly charge me for a few hours of labor.

Do BMWs have struts or shocks?

The damping adjustment for your BMW’s springs is provided by BMW shocks and struts. Your BMW’s suspension-control magic comes from its shocks and struts. Because of this, we only sell the strongest and most durable shocks and struts for BMWs, whether you want the best possible comfort, the best possible control, or the best of both worlds. To filter these goods for your BMW, use the SEARCH BY MODEL tool on our website.

When should you replace your BMW shocks?

Shocks and struts often need to be replaced every 50,000 to 100,000 miles. They will age more quickly if you drive more aggressively or frequently on difficult roads.

Shocks and struts don’t fail all at once; rather, they lose their effectiveness over time. As a result, you might not realize that your suspension is in trouble until it gets much worse! Keep an eye out for these 4 primary indications that your shocks and/or struts need to be replaced.

How durable are BMW shocks?

Depending on a number of variables, including as driving habits and road conditions, the factory shocks typically last 60–70k miles. Depending on how hard you are on them, they may last longer or shorter.

What is the turnaround time for replacing rear shocks?

Is the stop of your vehicle taking longer than usual? Is it strangely bumpier? The symptoms definitely indicate that your struts have failed, thus I believe it is time to replace them. Fortunately, you can either do it yourself or hire a professional to replace them.

Most professional mechanics agree that changing struts typically takes one to two hours. As long as you have prior mechanical experience and perform the procedure correctly, the expected time is the same even if you choose to replace them on your own.

The ability to manage and control the vehicle may be compromised if struts are not replaced in a timely manner.

Can I change my own shocks and struts?

Replacement of Shocks and Struts You can just swap in the new shocks and struts after removing the old ones. Make certain that all of the bolts are tightly tightened. To perform this, you most likely need a torque wrench. Reinstall the vehicle’s wheels, then you can test it out.

How can I tell if my back shocks are damaged?

Although several factors (hello, potholes) affect the lifespan of your shocks or struts, Reina claims that if you experience any of these seven signs, it’s time for replacements.

  • erratic behavior at motorway speeds. On the highway, your car never feels entirely solid and is always going up and down. Despite how little the movement may be, you may feel it.
  • In turns, the vehicle “tips” to one side. Your car leans or “tips” to the outside of the turn and feels shaky when you take a fast turn or an off-ramp.
  • During forceful braking, the front end drops more than is normal. You might not realize this until you have to use the brakes quickly.
  • When accelerating, stoop from the rear. When accelerating hard, you’ll notice that the front of your car rises while the back “squats.”
  • severe bouncing of the tires. You can feel a tire (or tires) reacting or briefly “bouncing” after striking a bump. There can also be a clunking sound.
  • uncommon tire wear The tread wears unevenly instead of wavy because the tire isn’t being held tightly to the road.
  • leakage of fluid from shocks or struts’ outside surfaces. This indicates that the internal fluids necessary for proper operation are escaping because the seals have cracked.

Does changing rear shocks require removing tires?

Auto Stereo Company You can do it, the Houston Raptor remarked. I recently had my shocks rebuilt, and I saw him replace the rear ones without removing the wheels.

What does it cost to repair the suspension on a BMW?

It can also be necessary to consider a wheel alignment when fixing the suspension. BMW air suspension repair could end up costing up to $2,000 in total.

Why do my shocks sound like that?

The replacement shock or strut most likely has no issues, but a metallic clunking sound often denotes faulty mounting hardware. A worn mount can cause the shock or strut to move up and down, but a loose mount can enable movement between the bolt and attached components. It is always advised to install new mounts and mounting hardware when upgrading shocks or struts.

Finding the problem’s origin requires a thorough inspection of the car. Starting with the parts that connect the shock or strut to the car, inspect them. Keep in mind that appearances can be deceiving; a mounting or bushing may seem snug but permit movement when driving.

Do shocks need to be compressed before installation?

Customers frequently express these worries to the shock experts at KYB after purchasing new shocks. The KYBguys claim that persuading consumers that the new shock is in perfect working order can be difficult. In actuality, the shock has most likely been “lying around” for too long.

Let’s get to it:

Twin tube shocks and struts are present in more than 85% of all automobiles. The interior of twin tubes is open so that the hydraulic fluid has somewhere to go when it is operating. Nitrogen gas is used to pressurize that area in order to lessen foaming as the fluid is stirred.

These shocks have a top and bottom, hence their intended use is vertical. The nitrogen gas in the shock will likely try to enter the hydraulic working region during shipping or while the new part is laying sideways on a shelf in the warehouse. The first few strokes will feel as though the shock isn’t working when that occurs.

The solution is easy. The hydraulic fluid will remain where it belongs as long as the fresh shock is applied vertically, and the nitrogen gas will be forced back into the reservoir as it is.

The shock can be “primed” before installation, however it is not necessary: Holding the shock vertically (its natural installation position), stroke it several times to fully compress it before fully extending it.

Due to the shock’s low nitrogen gas pressure, which occasionally seeps into the hydraulic area during prolonged horizontal storage, the initial movement or two may feel like the shock isn’t operating. If this step is skipped before installation, noisy operation and performance degradation may happen briefly. However, the shock will start functioning correctly after a few strokes or when the car starts moving.

Despite the fact that shock priming is not necessary, it is quick and simple and can shorten the “break-in period” for your new shocks.

Are shock absorbers self-installable?

If you’re thinking about replacing the shock absorbers yourself, you should be a skilled and knowledgeable do-it-yourself technician.

  • Place chocks or wedges under the wheels that are going to stay on the ground before parking your car in a level, flat area.
  • Lift the problematic wheel as high off the ground as you can by jacking up the vehicle.
  • The car should be lowered onto the stand after a jack stand is placed beneath the factory lift point. You should have adequate space to work on the car as a result.
  • Lift the vehicle just a little to relieve some of the pressure on the suspension you’re going to work on. If you’re replacing the shocks on both sides, you should do this one side at a time.
  • Utilizing the appropriate size socket or wrench, remove the shock mounting bolts.
  • The damaged shock absorber in your car ought to be able to be taken out at this point.
  • Replace both the fastening bolts and the damaged shock with new ones.

Make a modest adjustment to the bracket if the shocker is challenging to install. If necessary, slightly bend them to ensure that your new shocks fit properly.

  • The mounting bolts should be tightened with the proper torque.
  • Lower your automobile back to the ground after removing the floor jack from underneath it.
  • Take the chocks off and give your automobile a spin.

There are a few guides we’ve seen that will teach you how to fix the rear shock absorbers (or the front ones, for that matter), but it’s not recommended. The lifespan of a restored shock will be significantly diminished.

You shouldn’t hesitate to choose replacement over repair for a component on which you rely so significantly.

Should rear shock bolts be tightened?

Once the bushing has expanded (bulged) to the same outside diameter as the metal washer, the fasteners should be tightened. (See under) As a result, the shock absorber can move in any direction with the right amount of bushing squeeze.

Should I be able to manually compress a shock?

A shock or strut cannot be evaluated for strength or condition just by hand movement. A vehicle in motion produces more force and speed than you can manually produce. The fluid valves’ operating characteristics depend on the amount of movement inertia, which is impossible to replicate manually.