We provide a wide range of automotive audio goods and consider ourselves authorities in the field, so we will only endorse brands that are well-known and regarded by our professionals.
We love Pioneer and Alpine head units but prefer Hertz and Audison for audio improvements. Certain manufacturers are also suitable for different items.
The Audi TT is a little car, but a straightforward audio upgrade can make the vehicle come to life and significantly improve the driving experience.
It is recommended to start by soundproofing the doors and improving the door speakers, just like with a couple of our audio modifications.
To enhance the doors, we suggest some Audison Prima APK (200) component speakers. Additionally, these call for a speaker adapter: Q+Sa (30)
An amplifier will enable increased loudness and better control of speaker cone movement, taking this idea a step further.
This will give the music definition and make it easier for you to distinguish between different instruments and sounds.
For this vehicle, we suggest an Audison Prima AP4 D (320)- 4 channel amplifier.
Finally, you can increase the sound quality of this installation by up to 40% by adding a subwoofer.
Without a sub, you are missing out on some of the frequencies. A sub will enable a wider range of frequencies.
A hi-level converter will also be necessary if you still have the original radio; we suggest the LC2i(120):
Total cost:
VAT, a technician traveling to you in Kent, and a LIFETIME warranty are all included in these fees.
In This Article...
Bang & Olufsen 3D Sound System
By producing a very realistic three-dimensional sound impression, the Bang & Olufsen 3D Sound System for the Audi A4 pushes the benchmark for audio excellence in the automobile industry even further. A total of 19 speakers are included in the system, each of which is contained within a grille that is flawlessly incorporated into the Audi A4’s interior appearance.
The 16 channel Class D amplifier produces 5.1 surround sound with 755 watts of clarity and crispness. Together with Fraunhofer Symphoria technology, the audio system gives the Audi A4 a sense of acoustic spaciousness that also raises the bar for 3D sound reproduction in automobiles. The Vehicle Noise Compensation (VNC) technology integrated into the amplifier ensures audio constancy is maintained regardless of what is going on outside the cabin by automatically changing timbre and loudness depending on information from a number of internal and external on-board sensors and microphones.
Excellent styling and acoustic transparancy
Excellent aesthetics and unmatched acoustic transparency are combined by the Bang & Olufsen Dynamic Lines Design feature. The speaker grilles match the interior’s style and have LED illumination, anodized metal accents and logos, and visibility from both inside and outside the car.
Additionally, the system makes sure that respect for individual preferences is always remembered: The volume levels in each passenger’s space can be changed using a variety of parameters.
The Audi concert sound system is what?
a stereo system with excellent sound quality, MP3 compatibility, a CD player, and auxiliary inputs for convenient connection to a range of audio devices.
a mobile concert venue. The concert radio system includes Radio Data System [RDS], which merges MP3 capability, a CD player, and auxiliary input for convenient access to a variety of music devices. RDS displays several forms of FM and SIRIUS Satellite Radio information.
The Audi sound system is what?
The optional Bang & Olufsen 3D Advanced Sound System in Audi automobiles welcomes drivers with two distinctive acoustic lenses that protrude from the dashboard. In order to reflect mid- and high-frequency sounds off the lens 180 degrees around the cabin, these specially constructed tweeters drive sound from underneath. It’s just one of the many ways we’re creating sound to fit our realistic vision.
The optional Bang & Olufsen 3D Advanced Sound System produces a lifelike listening environment that goes beyond faithfully recreating your daily soundtrack with up to 23 speakers distributed around the cabin, including high up in the A-pillars and even in the vehicle headliner. You get the impression that you are in a concert hall. or in the recording studio’s engineer’s booth.
Bang & Olufsen professionals have spent more than 400 hours meticulously fine-tuning the sound in your car, whether you’re listening to classical music or classic rock, to ensure a one-of-a-kind listening experience for you and your passengers. Even clever dummies equipped with sensitive binaural microphones are used to simulate and research various listening environments in order to help assure sound quality whether you’re on the freeway or a busy street.
A straightforward, understandable touchscreen is provided by the optional Audi MMI touch response system. To add a personal touch to your listening experience, adjust the balance, EQ, and other settings. You get a new sense of sound and control in your Audi vehicle thanks to haptic feedback and a soft acoustic response.
Audi Symphony: What is it?
Some Audi cars come with an audio system called Audi Symphony Radio. The system typically comes with a CD player in addition to an AM/FM tuner with Radio Data System (RDS), which can show station, artist, and track information. While some versions include an SD card port, others can play MP3, AAC, and WMA files directly from a CD. To ensure the ideal volume level, most systems have either speed-dependent volume control or Graduated Audio Level Adjustment (GALA). A few variants additionally come with SIRIUS Satellite Radio and an aux-in jack.
Is a wiring harness required for an aftermarket radio?
Basics of installing a car audio
We’ll walk you through setting up a new car stereo in this article. We’ll discuss:
- How to take out the original stereo
- What you need to know to properly attach the new receiver in terms of wiring
- Installing a new car radio
Before starting the installation, please read over these instructions so you’ll know what to expect.
Get your toolbox
To complete the task, you’ll need a few simple tools. The most typical tools are a few screwdrivers and a wrench or socket set for the battery cable. Additionally, you’ll require some wire strippers, electrical tape, and a method for connecting the wiring, which we’ll explain later. A panel removal tool is one of the more essential pieces of equipment you’ll require to properly remove the dash panels without damaging the surfaces or breaking anything.
Watch this video for a step-by-step overview of a basic car stereo installation
Check out this video of one of our senior advisors installing a stereo if you prefer a more visual explanation. From beginning to end, he guides you through the procedure and offers some professional advice along the way.
Removing the factory stereo
You must first remove the old audio from your car before installing the new one. It would be simple to skip over the removal procedures and forget about them. But take your time! Since you’ll be doing this in reverse to install a new stereo, you’ll want to be sure you recall the order of these steps.
To avoid accidently short-circuiting something, first engage the parking brake and unplug the negative line from the car battery.
Most frequently, one of the following mounting options will be used for your OEM stereo:
- fastened with spring clips in a metal mounting sleeve
- brackets that are bolted to the dash
- attached to a system of rails inside the dashboard
Removing a spring-clip mounted radio
You’ll need a pair of DIN tools if the stereo is fastened to the wall with spring clips. When you hear a click, the DIN tools are properly inserted into the holes on either side of the unit. The tools are used to remove the spring clips and to hook onto the stereo’s sides so you can remove it with ease. Pull the stereo out of the dash after slightly separating the tools.
Removing a stereo that’s bolted in place
Occasionally, one or more dash trim panels must be removed in order to reach the audio. You might need to locate and remove bolts to disassemble other panel components, or you might need to (carefully) peel the plastic trim away from the dash (which is frequently held in place by hidden pressure clips). Once you have accessed the stock stereo, the screws holding the radio to the dash should be visible. Pull the stereo out of the dash after removing the screws.
Removing a stereo attached to a rail system
Some automakers fix the factory radio to a railing inside the dash. The radio can be easily removed from the rail when the spring clips or bolts have been released. This rail may also need to be removed since it occasionally gets in the way of a new radio’s chassis. Remember that once this is finished, the factory radio frequently cannot be installed again.
Stereos for older cars
Before the early 1980s, many American cars had “shaft-style” stereos that were fastened to the dash using nuts and washers on the right and left knobs. The dash must be removed in order to install a stereo in the shaft design. The challenging part is getting it into place because your car’s wiring, heater controls, and ductwork can be in the way. RetroSound, one of our suppliers, offers a number of classic shaft-style radios with contemporary features included in and a flexible mounting system.
Unplugging the factory stereo
There should be at least one plastic wiring harness behind the stereo opening if your car has (or formerly had) a factory stereo or was pre-wired with a “stereo prep” package. The speakers and the stereo are connected to the electrical system of your car by this plug. To finish the removal process, unhook the antenna as well as the OEM stereo from the wiring harnesses.
It’s time to concentrate on the new radio now that the old one is out of the way. That entails tying all the cables together before mounting the audio in the dash.
How to wire a car stereo
Typically, these harnesses come with a color-coded wiring diagram that shows how to connect the harness to your new audio. The owner’s manual for your new stereo will also provide a radio wiring schematic. Verify the automobile stereo wire colors that must be connected to the adapter harness by consulting the two diagrams. It’s convenient that you can make these connections away from the vehicle, on a desk, kitchen table, or workbench.
Options for connecting the wires
There are just a few ways to connect bare wires together when you need to. Please refrain from merely taping the wires together because soon the tape will dry out and come off, exposing the wires and making a short-circuit inevitable. The choices below will provide you with safe, enduring connections:
- Maximum current transfer is guaranteed by a permanent, professional connection made by soldering. You should insulate the soldered connection with heat-shrink tubing and a heat gun, which we highly advise. Because it is the most reliable and conductive connection for the wire, most purists choose this approach.
- Wires can be connected quickly and securely with a twist using Posi-ProductTM connectors, which can also be reused. Posi-Tap connectors are useful to have on hand for a variety of tasks, too. This is our go-to method for quickly establishing solid relationships.
- Crimping is quick and often easy. The majority of in-dash stereo wires are 18-gauge, but some employ stronger gauge power and ground wires. If you decide to crimp the wires together, make sure to use the right size crimp connection. Crimp connectors come in a variety of designs, such as bullet connectors, butt connectors, or crimp caps.
Power wires
Normally, it is ideal to connect the new stereo’s wire via the wiring harness, but if you must connect directly to the power source, you must understand the distinction between “switched” and “continuous” power:
- Only when the ignition is turned on does a switched power source come on. To ensure that your new stereo won’t drain your car’s battery when you turn off the engine, connect the primary (switched) power leadtypically a red wireto a switched power source.
- A continuous power source never turns off. To prevent your radio station presets, tone control presets, and clock settings from being lost each time you turn off the car, connect the memory leadtypically a yellow wireof your new stereo to a continuous power source.
Some high-powered stereos necessitate a direct constant power connection at the positive terminal of your car’s battery, though this is uncommon. This calls for a power wire of a thicker gauge, an in-line fuse (which is typically already there), and a ring terminal to attach the power wire to the battery clamp. In order to connect at the battery, you will need to route the power wire to the battery location, which is frequently via the vehicle firewall and into the engine compartment.
Speaker wires
For the standard 4-speaker system, car stereos include eight wires: a positive wire and a negative wire for the front left, front right, rear left, and rear right speakers, respectively. Some of them might not be utilized depending on the wiring setup in your car and the wiring harness adapter we provide.
Ground wire
In order to achieve optimum stereo performance and to stop unwanted noise, a solid ground connection is essential. Look for a raw, unpainted bolt or screw that makes contact with the bare metal of your car’s chassis if you are not using a special wire harness. The ground wire, which is almost often a black wire, is slid underneath the bolt by loosening it, then the bolt is tightened. Your stereo won’t work if your ground wire doesn’t make touch with bare metal. Your music may become unlistenable due to signal noise caused by a poor or sloppy ground connection.
In-dash videotapping into the parking brake wire
You must additionally attach a wire to your emergency/parking brake wire if your new audio has a touchscreen or visual monitor. When the parking brake is applied, a switch on this wire turns on the video monitor.
Mounting the stereo in the dash
You might need to remove the mounting brackets from the sides of the existing stereo if it was bolted into the dash and attach them to the sides of the new radio. More frequently than not, a mounting kit will be required to install the stereo.
Follow the instructions provided with the mounting kit if one is needed. Sometimes you attach the kit in the dash, then insert the metal mounting sleeve for the new stereo, if one is included. With the use of a screwdriver, bend the metal tabs on the metal sleeve into position to secure it. In other instances, you first attach the mounting kit to the new stereo before screwing both of them into the dash.
You will likely require a unique factory system wiring adaptor in order to install a new stereo if your car has an integrated stereo/climate control panel, an enhanced version of the original sound system (such a Bose or Harman Kardon update, for example), or both. You can use an adapter to connect a new stereo to your current speaker setup. When you purchase your new stereo from us, you’ll also receive it at a substantial discount.
With this integration package, select 2010 and later Ford Mustangs still have their factory LCD screen and touchscreen climate controls.
Hold the new stereo close to the opening once the dash opening is prepared. Plug the antenna cable in and connect the stereo wiring adapter to the wiring harness of the vehicle. You may also need to connect other items to the stereo’s rear, depending on the model you choose, like the Bluetooth microphone wire, a USB cable, steering wheel control interface, or an auxiliary input cable.
Check your work
Don’t fasten the stereo down just yet; instead, slide it into the dash opening. Check that the stereo is functioning properly by testing it first. While everything is still visible, an issue is simpler to solve.
If you disconnected any airbag warning plugs, make careful to reattach those before reconnecting the batteries. You’ll need to do this in order to test the stereo.
Power up and test each source (AM, FM, CD, USB, etc.). Once all speakers are operational, modify the balance and fader settings. Finish mounting the stereo in the dash and replacing any dash trim panel pieces that you removed once you are certain that it is wired and operating properly.
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