I looked around and couldn’t find any visual aids or photos to serve as a disclaimer that it wasn’t my problem if you died or your automobile blew up.
Until I can get to the driver’s side, which won’t be until Saturday most likely, this is only for the passenger side. My vehicle is a 1996 Toyota Corolla DX, but other models should be comparable.
tools required:
step 1:
Step 2: Locate the four black covers and start peeling them off. It is simplest to fully recline the seat, undo the front, move it forward, and then undo the back 2.
I inserted the flathead into one side of the plastic cover and pulled it toward the seat, which caused it to pop off.
Rear seat coverings are a little trickier to remove because they sort of slant sideways; use the flat head to peel them off after moving the seats all the way forward in step 3.
Step 4: I pulled the handle to tilt the seat forward in order to really remove the seat.
There were only 4 bolts on the passenger seat; there were no cables or wiring. I am unable to comment on the driver side because I haven’t truly examined it.
In This Article...
How challenging is it to remove the car seats?
If you take your time and are cautious, taking out the seats is not too difficult. Four bolts, two in the front and two in the back, are normally located on the ends of the runners at the base of front bucket seats to secure them. Socket wrenches are used to remove these.
How is a car seat removed from the base?
You can easily get your infant in and out of the Graco car seat because its base is detachable. It merely requires a few simple steps and a few seconds to remove this car seat.
You need to raise the carrier’s handle first. Pull it up into an upright posture by pushing the handle in. Then, from the back of the car seat, squeeze the base release handle. Lift the car seat out of the base once you’ve completed this.
Your baby’s car seat’s latch may also need to be taken off. Well, there are only a few easy steps to accomplish that. Continue reading to learn how to do it!
Can you change a fender on your own?
Pickup vehicle owners have a large social network. On a regular basis, people use my pickup to transport anything from cordwood and college students to upright pianos and snowblowers. I used to constantly ride shotgun to protect my truck while it was new, but it got stale once I realized I would always be the mover’s assistant.
Then, a friend struck a low post with the right front corner of his car by accident, causing just enough damage to the fender to exceed his financial means but not enough to surpass my deductible.
Since only the fender was damaged, I reasoned that I could easily purchase a replacement and bolt it on myself. If you’re prepared to color-sand and buff out the finish once it’s dried, modern basecoat/clearcoat paints make a professional refinishing job relatively simple with nothing more than an air compressor and spray gun.
When looking for a replacement fender, there used to be two options: purchase one from a dealer or locate a reliable used one at a wrecking yard. There are a lot more possibilities available now.
You can purchase an aftermarket fender that is less expensive than the factory fender, just as you can purchase many types of aftermarket shock absorbers or batteries for your vehicle. This is especially true for cars with the same body style over a long period of time.
It’s a good idea to paint the new fender’s hidden surfaces with something more rust-resistant than the primer used at the stamping factory after you get it home. As long as you clean and carefully sand the primer first, rattle-can enamel is acceptable. Degreasing the surface with a prep solvent is the last step before spraying any paint.
There are several different ways to remove a fender. Depending on the vehicle, this task may be simple or challenging. Consider where fasteners are and what you might need to remove first when removing any fender, such as the bumper, antenna, grille, or headlight bucket. On some cars, the interior of the fender is where the hood hinge is bolted. If so, you must prop the hood open in order to take out the fastener there. The hood may be less vulnerable to harm during the repair process if it is completely removed. If necessary, use a scribe or felt pen to record the location of the hinges’ attachment to the hood so that it will be simple to realign them later.
Remove any cladding, marker lights, or trim elements from the fender as well. Most likely, you’ll want to reuse them, so be cautious. Trimpieces in general can be challenging to remove because extremely strong double-sided tape is used to secure them. You can remove the trim without bending it by using Goof-Off, 3M Trim Adhesive Remover, or even lacquer thinner to weaken the adhesive.
Remove the rusted, old fender’s bolts. Avoid working up a sweat yanking until you are certain that all of the fasteners have been taken out because they may be in unexpected locations.
Painting isn’t as intimidating as it once was. Modern basecoat/clearcoat paints can be sprayed with ease utilizing basic tools from a home workshop.
You might also need to use a utility knife to cut through any undercoating or seam sealant that keeps the fender attached to the body. Be careful not to dent the door or hood when lifting off the fender.
Install the fender by setting it on the car and securing it with a number of loosely fastened fasteners. Most fender fasteners and their mounting locations have some flexibility while they’re loose, allowing the fender to be fitted. To produce a uniform gap at the door and hood seams while ensuring that the fender is flush with the body, tighten all fasteners to the point of fingertip tightness. Check the fit and make sure the door and hood open and close properly after tightening all bolts. Remove any components from the fender that will prevent it from being painted.
OEM and aftermarket fenders both come pre-coated with a tough primer sealer that is prepared to take paint. Mask off the hood, the door next to the fender, and the wheel and tire right below the new fender before painting. Cover the entire car with plastic sheets to stop overspray.
Use a wax remover with a solvent base to get rid of any grease, oil, dirt, and fingerprints before painting. There are probably minor handling blemishes in the primer that has already been sprayed on the fender. These must be removed with sandpaper, primed once more, and then lightly sanded over. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions while applying the basecoat. Spray the fender after lightly wiping the area to be painted with a tack cloth. Basecoats typically dry in under 30 minutes. Depending on the hue, you might need to use two or three coats to achieve sufficient coverage. Sanding between applications is strongly discouraged by the majority of paint manufacturers. Pay close attention to their advice, especially the one about using a respirator.
Following the completion of the basecoat drying process, combine the clearcoat and hardener per the manufacturer’s recommendations, apply a medium wet coat, wait for it to flash dry, and then repeat with a second coat. Remove all of the paper, plastic, and masking tape from the car after letting the clearcoat cure for a couple of hours.
A process called color sanding, followed by machine polishing, is used to eliminate dust particles and any orange peel or other flaws after the clearcoat has dried for a few days. Start by sanding the fender using 1500-grit sandpaper, keeping the area wet the entire time to clear away any dust. Avoid sanding around seams and folds to prevent sanding through the paint. Work steadily in small pieces until the entire fender has been sanded to ensure that you cover all surfaces. Look for any areas that are shining after properly drying the fender, as this suggests that additional sanding is required.
After sanding is finished, use a foam polishing pad and rubbing compound on a rotary buffing machine to enhance the paint’s sheen. Again, avoid rubbing through the paint by avoiding wrinkles and seams. By switching to a new foam pad and applying polishing compound again, followed by another pad change, another application of polishing compound, and then the application of speed glaze, you can improve the sheen and eliminate swirls. Wait a month before waxing when the job is finished polishing, then attach any final items.
The first CAPA fender that we bought online. But when we tried to put it on, getting it bolted up required a lot of bending, twisting, and choice words. When it was ultimately installed, it simply didn’t fit properly. We got a second CAPA fender locally (from a different manufacturer), and it fit exactly and was finished wonderfully. We were grateful that we hadn’t painted the fender before installing it.
For consumers who are dissatisfied, CAPA has a program to retrieve and replace parts. (To make a complaint, obtain the CAPA number from the label and dial 800-505-CAPA.) Purchasing the component from a trustworthy neighborhood parts store is a much faster option. So you can return the part and request a replacement if it doesn’t fit.
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How much does a front fender replacement cost?
We regret learning about your fender. Depending on the type of car you drive, front fender replacement expenses might range from $500 to $6,000.
You should expect to pay between $500 and $1,500 to replace a front fender, and between $1,500 and $4,000 to do substantial repairs. You might spend up to $6,000 if the repair is substantial, leaving the fender fully wrecked and making it difficult to operate your car.
Your fender can sustain damage even if you haven’t been in an accident. Watch out for these telltale symptoms that it might be time for a replacement:
- If your fender has visible damage like cracks or missing pieces, it could be time to repair it.
- Because of improper sizing, your tires will likely kick up debris and even harm your car’s body. Make sure to purchase the correct fender size for your car.
- UV radiation exposure results in stains on your fenders. This may diminish your car’s overall aesthetic attractiveness.
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Can the back seat of a Toyota Yaris fold down?
The 60/40 split folding back seats are standard on every Yaris model, but that is it. The seatbacks themselves are simple to fold down, but the Jazz lacks other ingenious versatility-enhancing features like the Jazz’s flip-up seat bases in the form of a movie theater.