I’m sorry to learn that your automobile was destroyed! Before you begin, you should be aware that this technique demands you to be confident jacking up your car and taking out complex parts. If you’re inexperienced, it’s best to leave this task to the experts.
But if you’re up for it, you can easily remove the front fender from a Toyota Sienna by doing the following:
- Remove the lug nuts from the front tires and jack up your Sienna.
- After releasing the two screws and seven clips holding the drivers side guard in place, pull it out horizontally.
- Under the front bumper, remove the rubber retainer.
- Take off the under-fender dirt guard.
- By releasing the five top clamps and drawing the radiator grille outward, you can remove it.
- On the driver’s side, remove the headlamp housing.
- Remove the screws from the driver’s side front bumper to loosen it.
- Find and remove the front bumper support.
- The front fender can then be removed after that.
- After you’ve finished your repairs, put each component back where it belongs.
Although removing your front fender can be a difficult procedure, if you do it correctly, you can save spending hundreds of dollars on auto body repairs. And don’t worry if you were unable to finish this process. By using the Jerry app, you may always save money on other car expenditures to pay for expert repairs.
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How is a Toyota fender removed?
Instructions
- the front bumper cover must be removed (see separate video)
- While the front door is open, remove the 10 mm fasteners.
- Using a flat-tip screwdriver, remove the top plastic fastener.
- Using a plastic trim stick, release the front headlight assembly, then unplug the electrical connector.
- Along the top of the fender assembly, remove three 10mm fasteners.
Can I swap out the fender?
Pickup vehicle owners have a large social network. On a regular basis, people use my pickup to transport anything from cordwood and college students to upright pianos and snowblowers. I used to constantly ride shotgun to protect my truck while it was new, but it got stale once I realized I would always be the mover’s assistant.
Then, a friend struck a low post with the right front corner of his car by accident, causing just enough damage to the fender to exceed his financial means but not enough to surpass my deductible.
Since only the fender was damaged, I reasoned that I could easily purchase a replacement and bolt it on myself. If you’re prepared to color-sand and buff out the finish once it’s dried, modern basecoat/clearcoat paints make a professional refinishing job relatively simple with nothing more than an air compressor and spray gun.
When looking for a replacement fender, there used to be two options: purchase one from a dealer or locate a reliable used one at a wrecking yard. There are a lot more possibilities available now.
You can purchase an aftermarket fender that is less expensive than the factory fender, just as you can purchase many types of aftermarket shock absorbers or batteries for your vehicle. This is especially true for cars with the same body style over a long period of time.
It’s a good idea to paint the new fender’s hidden surfaces with something more rust-resistant than the primer used at the stamping factory after you get it home. As long as you clean and carefully sand the primer first, rattle-can enamel is acceptable. Degreasing the surface with a prep solvent is the last step before spraying any paint.
There are several different ways to remove a fender. Depending on the vehicle, this task may be simple or challenging. Consider where fasteners are and what you might need to remove first when removing any fender, such as the bumper, antenna, grille, or headlight bucket. On some cars, the interior of the fender is where the hood hinge is bolted. If so, you must prop the hood open in order to take out the fastener there. The hood may be less vulnerable to harm during the repair process if it is completely removed. If necessary, use a scribe or felt pen to record the location of the hinges’ attachment to the hood so that it will be simple to realign them later.
Remove any cladding, marker lights, or trim elements from the fender as well. Most likely, you’ll want to reuse them, so be cautious. Trimpieces in general can be challenging to remove because extremely strong double-sided tape is used to secure them. You can remove the trim without bending it by using Goof-Off, 3M Trim Adhesive Remover, or even lacquer thinner to weaken the adhesive.
Remove the rusted, old fender’s bolts. Avoid working up a sweat yanking until you are certain that all of the fasteners have been taken out because they may be in unexpected locations.
Painting isn’t as intimidating as it once was. Modern basecoat/clearcoat paints can be sprayed with ease utilizing basic tools from a home workshop.
You might also need to use a utility knife to cut through any undercoating or seam sealant that keeps the fender attached to the body. Be careful not to dent the door or hood when lifting off the fender.
Install the fender by setting it on the car and securing it with a number of loosely fastened fasteners. Most fender fasteners and their mounting locations have some flexibility while they’re loose, allowing the fender to be fitted. To produce a uniform gap at the door and hood seams while ensuring that the fender is flush with the body, tighten all fasteners to the point of fingertip tightness. Check the fit and make sure the door and hood open and close properly after tightening all bolts. Remove any components from the fender that will prevent it from being painted.
OEM and aftermarket fenders both come pre-coated with a tough primer sealer that is prepared to take paint. Mask off the hood, the door next to the fender, and the wheel and tire right below the new fender before painting. Cover the entire car with plastic sheets to stop overspray.
Use a wax remover with a solvent base to get rid of any grease, oil, dirt, and fingerprints before painting. There are probably minor handling blemishes in the primer that has already been sprayed on the fender. These must be removed with sandpaper, primed once more, and then lightly sanded over. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions while applying the basecoat. Spray the fender after lightly wiping the area to be painted with a tack cloth. Basecoats typically dry in under 30 minutes. Depending on the hue, you might need to use two or three coats to achieve sufficient coverage. Sanding between applications is strongly discouraged by the majority of paint manufacturers. Pay close attention to their advice, especially the one about using a respirator.
Following the completion of the basecoat drying process, combine the clearcoat and hardener per the manufacturer’s recommendations, apply a medium wet coat, wait for it to flash dry, and then repeat with a second coat. Remove all of the paper, plastic, and masking tape from the car after letting the clearcoat cure for a couple of hours.
A process called color sanding, followed by machine polishing, is used to eliminate dust particles and any orange peel or other flaws after the clearcoat has dried for a few days. Start by sanding the fender using 1500-grit sandpaper, keeping the area wet the entire time to clear away any dust. Avoid sanding around seams and folds to prevent sanding through the paint. Work steadily in small pieces until the entire fender has been sanded to ensure that you cover all surfaces. Look for any areas that are shining after properly drying the fender, as this suggests that additional sanding is required.
After sanding is finished, use a foam polishing pad and rubbing compound on a rotary buffing machine to enhance the paint’s sheen. Again, avoid rubbing through the paint by avoiding wrinkles and seams. By switching to a new foam pad and applying polishing compound again, followed by another pad change, another application of polishing compound, and then the application of speed glaze, you can improve the sheen and eliminate swirls. Wait a month before waxing when the job is finished polishing, then attach any final items.
The first CAPA fender that we bought online. But when we tried to put it on, getting it bolted up required a lot of bending, twisting, and choice words. When it was ultimately installed, it simply didn’t fit properly. We got a second CAPA fender locally (from a different manufacturer), and it fit exactly and was finished wonderfully. We were grateful that we hadn’t painted the fender before installing it.
For consumers who are dissatisfied, CAPA has a program to retrieve and replace parts. (To make a complaint, obtain the CAPA number from the label and dial 800-505-CAPA.) Purchasing the component from a trustworthy neighborhood parts store is a much faster option. So you can return the part and request a replacement if it doesn’t fit.
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How is a front fender replaced?
Wear protective glasses at all times when working on your car. When necessary, put on additional personal protective equipment (PPE), such as latex gloves or closed-toe shoes.
The fender liner retainers should be taken off. These retainers could be rivets, push-on nuts, clips, screws, or a combination of these.
The hood prop should be placed correctly after opening the hood. Remove any lighting that are affixed to the fender or the area around it. This could refer to the turn signal, park lamp, or headlamp assembly.
If a rocker molding is present, remove the front portion of it. This might be secured with screws, clips, or a combination of the two.
In order to reuse them on the new fender, take off any mud guards, moldings, rear shields, rear insulators, emblems, nameplates, or reflectors.
Check for more damage along the A-pillar and the apron behind the fender.
Reinstall any under-the-hood components, including the grille, headlamp assembly, battery, and upper radiator support.
How much time does a fender replacement take?
The removal of the old fender and installation of the new fender will only take a skilled technician 35 hours. The paint job and curing, however, can add a few weeks to the overall replacement time.
What is the price of replacing a fender panel?
What a letdown! Unfortunately, it will probably cost roughly $2,000 to fix a quarter panel.
Quarter panel repairs and other body panel repairs are typically costly. A replacement corner panel can cost anywhere between $500 and $1500 if the damage is severe enough that the panel needs to be replaced. This price depends on whether you choose OEM or aftermarket parts.
Additionally, because the quarter panel is welded on, changing it takes time. That calls for prolonged effort, which can be costly.
The cost of repairs will be significantly reduced if the damage is modest and can be removed with buffing rather than replacing the entire panel.
If you have collision insurance, the damage to your quarter panel may be covered since you struck a divider while driving, but you will first need to pay your deductible.
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What does a car’s front fender look like?
The metal component known as the fender protects your front wheels by running between your front door and your front bumper. In order to prevent further damage to your tires or car body while you are driving, you should have your fender fixed as soon as possible if it has been damaged. We’ll start the repair procedure by scraping the paint from the dent. Then, we do a hole-free dent repair that doesn’t weaken the panel and uses less filler than alternative techniques using a stud welder dent-pulling device. Welding a pattern inside the indentation enables us to remove the dent and restore the fender to its former shape. We use a slide hammer to pull the studs into the fender’s initial placement once they are lined up. The studs will then be taken out, the space will be filled in, and if necessary, it will be sanded. After that, we prime, paint, and clear coat the area in a manner similar to how we would repair a bumper.