You could position the jack stands under the axle tubes and jack up the rear end by the third part (the pumpkin). You can place the jack under the front crossmember for the front (just behind the skid plate). Anyhow, when I rotate my tires, I do that.
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Is lifting a truck by the differential acceptable?
Sadly, despite the fact that this is one of the most frequently discussed subjects in relation to jacking up cars, everyone appears to have a different suggestion for what you “should be doing.” If you ask your friendly neighborhood mechanic, he’ll undoubtedly admit that he frequently presses a floor jack up against the differential. To determine which elements of a car or truck can withstand the force of the jack, he depends on expertise.
Others will just advise you to consult your owner’s manual or get in touch with the car’s manufacturer. Technically speaking, that’s a really good response. Why? It doesn’t follow that something is unquestionably safe just because it is probably safe. The tire shop workers are undoubtedly acting safely when they lift a car by the differential. Similarly, if you perform the same task at home using a reliable hydraulic jack, you are likely acting safely.
You are surely being safe if the differential is listed as a recommended lifting point by the manufacturer of your car. Your handbook, however, most likely instructs you to lift from the pinch weld or frame. If in doubt, refer to the book!
Where do you jack up a truck’s front end?
Consult a service handbook to find the suggested lift points and support locations for your particular vehicle before learning how to jack up your truck properly. Repair guides are typically offered online or at auto parts retailers.
- Engage the parking brake and block the back wheels before you start the jacking procedure to stop unwanted movement.
- You should begin lifting the car up from the front. Trucks with four-wheel drive can have their front ends elevated by setting the jack under the differential.
- A helpful hint is to position the jack for two-wheel-drive trucks underneath the engine’s jacking pad.
How is a truck jacked up?
We can finally go over the procedures you need to follow now that you have all the tools you need to jack up your truck. Of course, the detailed instructions below depict the operation using a floor jack in order to be as clear-cut as possible. Watch out for a separate paragraph at the conclusion of this article if you plan to use a bottle jack. However, both types go through a process that is largely the same.
Find a suitable place to park your truck
Finding flat ground with a large working space is the first rule of jacking. If you are at home, your garage is ideal, but if you are traveling, any other flat, firm surface will work just fine.
Here is a quick tip to look for tiny slopes that could endanger you since you aren’t required to carry a level with you everywhere you go. When you’ve reached the desired location, stop your truck, shift into neutral, and carefully let up on the brakes. If your truck starts to roll in any way, move to a leveler place.
In addition, park as far away from the road as you can if you have to stop on the side of a road where cars are passing, especially if you need to remove a wheel from the left-hand side of your truck.
On the other hand, it’s highly improbable that you will discover solid ground nearby if you are in the middle of a trail far off in the woods. I would then advise placing a square piece of wood under your jack in that situation. It will be much more sturdy due to the greater surface, which should prevent it from sinking in the muck. You should be set to go as long as you select a piece of wood that is large enough to sustain the weight of your truck.
Engage wheel chocks
It’s time to safely jack up your truck once you’ve located a secure, level parking space. First, engage the emergency brake and park the truck. Then, while your truck is being jacked up, gently secure the wheel chocks around one or more wheels that will remain on the ground. Place the wheel chocks around the rear passenger’s side wheel, for instance, if the jack is placed close to the front driver’s side wheel.
Wheel chocks are obviously unnecessary because both the front and rear wheels should be securely blocked if you put the car in park and use the handbrake. I must admit that I don’t often use wheel chocks when jacking up cars and trucks in my shop. Since the ground is level, it is quite improbable that the object will roll in any direction. However, when you are outside, you are never completely safe from a component failure (you never know when a parking brake cable can crack, for example), and you should always err on the side of caution, especially when driving on a trail.
Additionally, even if you manage to locate a very flat spot to park on, we still advise utilizing wheel chocks as an additional safety precaution. If none are available, you can alternatively use bricks or sizable pieces of wood; these are particularly effective on muddy ground.
Picking the appropriate jacking point
The saddle of your floor jack must be placed at a proper jacking point; otherwise, you risk permanently damaging the truck’s bodywork or damaging valuable components. Fortunately, all manufacturers will offer certain designated jacking locations, regardless of the make or model. You can always look in your truck’s owner manual if you are unsure of where to look. Your best bet is to try to find these spots visually if the manual isn’t available; they are typically identified by an arrow or a little depression under the rocker panel.
If your truck has an independent suspension, you can set your jack under the control arms because your truck is a body-on-frame model rather than a unibody one. If not, keep an eye out for corrosion. Additionally, you can position your jack under the differentials to lift a full axle off the ground.
Jack it up
It’s time to begin pumping after choosing the proper jacking point and positioning the floor jack correctly. 12 to 15 pumps will often be required to raise the truck high enough to access the underbody. When the truck is in the desired location, carefully position a jack stand near the saddle and slowly turn the jack’s lever until the hydraulic system releases just enough pressure to position the truck on the stand. Because you will lose a few inches while mounting the truck on the supports, be sure to jack up the truck a little bit higher than the necessary end height.
Make sure to choose the proper height and firmly engage the locking pin before setting up the jack stands. Slide the floor jack out of the way after the truck is supported by the jack stands. If the truck is about to fall, it best fall when you are not underneath it, so you might want to give it a good wiggle to make sure it is held securely before reaching under it.
Lowering the truck
Start pumping after setting the floor jack below the truck. If you’re lucky, certain floor jacks have a fast-lift option that, with 4-5 pumps, raises the saddle to its highest point. Adjust the jack’s location when the saddle approaches the lifting point to make sure it makes contact where you want it to. Put in a few extra pumps to clear the stand and remove it once you start to feel any resistance on the handle. Before lowering the truck back onto its wheels, remove the jack stand.
FIND A SAFE LOCATION
Do not suddenly brake or turn when you first notice you have a flat tire. Slow down and look about for a straight, flat section of road with a wide shoulder. The best location would be a parking lot that was empty. It is advantageous to have level terrain since it will keep your car from rolling. Furthermore, straight sections of road are preferable to curves since they increase the likelihood that incoming vehicles will spot you.
Never try to replace a tire near oncoming traffic on a small shoulder. Move forward (slowly) until you reach a safer location. Although driving on a flat tire puts your rim at danger of damage, this is better than getting struck by an inattentive motorist.
Make sure to examine the precise instructions for changing a flat tire for your vehicle in your owner’s manual.
TURN ON YOUR HAZARD LIGHTS
Other drivers will be able to see you on the side of the road thanks to your hazard lights or flashers. They should be turned on as soon as you recognize you need to stop in order to prevent an accident.
APPLY WHEEL WEDGES
To make sure the car doesn’t slide while you patch the flat tire, wheel wedges are placed in front of or behind the tires. Put these in front of the front tires if you’re changing a rear tire. Put the wheel wedges behind the rear tires if the front tire is flat.
Real wheel wedges are not necessary; you can just use bricks or big stones. Simply make sure they are substantial enough to prevent the automobile from rolling.
REMOVE THE HUBCAP OR WHEEL COVER
It is simpler to take off the hubcap before raising the car with the jack if your car has one covering the lug nuts. You can move on to Step 6 if your lug nuts are visible.
To remove the hubcap, use the flat end of your lug wrench. Most automobiles can use this, but some hubcaps require a specialized tool to remove. For instructions on how to remove a hubcap or wheel cover properly, go to your owners manual.
LOOSEN THE LUG NUTS
Turn the lug nuts counterclockwise with the lug wrench until they lose their resistance. It’s okay if you have to use force. If required, use your foot or your entire body weight.
The lug nuts should be loosened by 1/4 to 1/2 turn, but not yet totally removed. Save that for when you need to take your tire or wheel off the car.
PLACE THE JACK UNDER THE VEHICLE
Under the car’s frame, next to the flat tire, is normally where the jack should be placed. A cleared piece of exposed metal on the bottom of many car frames is designated for the jack and is covered in molded plastic. Use the jack in accordance with the owner’s manual’s directions to properly lift the object without causing harm to the car.
RAISE THE VEHICLE WITH THE JACK
Before attempting to elevate your vehicle, lay a little cut of 2×6 wood beneath the jack to keep it from collapsing under the weight of your car and losing equilibrium. On asphalt, this strategy is very useful.
Lift the car with the jack in the right place until the flat tire is roughly six inches off the ground.
Never place any portion of your body under the car while it is being raised with the jack or later.
REMOVE THE FLAT TIRE
Pull the tire gently in your direction while holding it by the treads until it is totally free from the hub behind it. To prevent it from rolling away, position it on its side.
TIGHTEN THE LUG NUTS BY HAND
Reinstall the lug nuts on the lug bolts and manually tighten them all the way. Once they are all attached, double-check each one and tighten as much as you can. After lowering the car to the ground, you’ll use the wrench to tighten them.
LOWER THE VEHICLE AND TIGHTEN THE LUG NUTS AGAIN
Lower the car using the jack so that the spare tire is on the ground but that the tire isn’t bearing the entire weight of the car. Now, using the wrench and rotating in a clockwise direction, tighten the lug nuts as much as possible. Use your entire body weight to press down on the lug wrench.
LOWER THE VEHICLE COMPLETELY
Remove the jack and fully lower the car to the ground. To make sure the lug nuts are as snug as possible, give them one more tug with the wrench.
REPLACE THE HUBCAP
Put the hubcap you removed from the flat tire back on if it fits your spare tire after first removing it. If it won’t fit, store it with the tire when you store your equipment if it isn’t necessary.
STOW ALL EQUIPMENT
A jack, a lug wrench, wheel wedges, your flat tire, and perhaps a hubcap are the items you have in front of you. Before you go, remember to load them all into your car.
CHECK THE PRESSURE IN THE SPARE TIRE
To make sure the spare tire is secure for driving, you should check the tire pressure. Mini-spares, commonly known as T-Type temporary spares, need 60 psi (420 kPa). If the tire has to be inflated, proceed (slowly) to a gas station right away.
TAKE YOUR FLAT TIRE TO A TECHNICIAN
Driving long distances or at high speeds is not recommended with temporary spare tires, so proceed with caution until you can see a tire technician. If your tire needs to be repaired or needs to be replaced, a professional should be able to tell.
Will my vehicle fit on 2 ton jack stands?
Each type of automobile jack is rated to support a particular weight range, and the precise rating is listed on the jack itself in the form of a clearly visible sticker. It’s crucial to realize that you won’t be lifting your car or truck in its whole with a single jack, so you don’t need one that is rated for the vehicle’s total weight. A two-ton jack should be adequate for elevating a corner on the majority of sedans and small automobiles. In order to provide you with the necessary margin of safety, a pickup truck or SUV may need to be rated at double that weight (four tons).