Talker 1: We’re going to install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame trailer hitch, part number 75235, on our 2017 Toyota RAV4 today. As you can see, the crosstube will be somewhat visible. The receiver tube won’t protrude out too far where you have to worry about running into your leg while passing by, but it will be roughly flush with the back of the car. You may tow a wide range of accessories with this Class 3 hitch. Here, there will be a typical 5/8-inch hole for your receiver pin. There won’t be a receiver pin included with the hitch.
They are simpler to install because there is plenty of space between this and the bottom of the bumper. It has a tiny offset from the receiver pin hole, which will help to avoid any potential interference problems. The tongue weight of the hitch will be 675 pounds. That will be the force pressing down from above. It will also have a gross weight of 4,500 pounds, which is the maximum amount of weight it can draw behind your car. It will have the same gross and tongue weight ratings and is also rated for use with weight distribution systems.
Verify if your owner’s manual says it can handle those loads before assuming anything.
This hitch’s bracket for your electrical connector is one of its special characteristics; when you install wiring or are prepared to connect to your trailer, you’ll have a convenient connection point right here. I’ll now provide you with a few measures to use when buying accessories. It will be approximately 3-1/2 inches from the center of the hitch pin to the border of the rear bumper “. There will be around 13 feet between the top of the receiving tube and the ground “. After going through some of the features, let’s demonstrate how to install it. We will approach the underside of the driver’s side and remove this undershield to start our installation.
You’ll need a 10mm socket to start removing this undershield. At the front of the car, near the spring, remove the 10mm socket. It might be necessary to apply downward pressure on the lid if the bolt doesn’t completely come off. Our cover will then lower once we remove the two push pins located at the rear of the car on the passenger side. The tie down bracket that was behind the cover we just removed will be removed next. We need to remove two 17mm nuts before we can remove the bracket. The next step is to slightly lower our exhaust. To do that, we’ll take off this rubber support right here. It works best to apply a small amount of silicone lubrication to make removal simpler. Once you’ve sprayed it, you can simply pull it off or push it away. After lowering the exhaust, we can now clean the bolt threads to ensure that the hardware will function properly. To remove any potential dirt and debris, we’ll use a little brush here. Apply this to all of the holes on this side and the other side. The hanger rod above the exhaust will then be removed by us. There are two 12mm bolts that must be taken out. We can clear that up so it doesn’t come in the way of our hitch. The hanger rod that we just removed won’t be put back in place. We’re going to install our hitch using the three bolt holes here on the driver side, with the supplied bolt and the conical tooth washer facing towards the hitch, now that everything that was in the way has been taken out. We will be reinstalling the hanger we previously removed, which will put on the two back holes after we get the hitch up. Then, we will only be putting two bolts in those holes on the passenger side. We are now going to obtain an additional pair of hands to assist us with getting our hitch up here. We’ll put it in position using our extra pair of hands. The hole that is farthest from the front of the car is where we’ll start the bolt. It will be held in place by this to allow us to install our hanging bracket in the other two holes. Here, on the two rearmost holes on the driver’s side, the hanger bracket will be installed. The two bolt holes we mentioned previously will then be installed on the opposite side. Using an 18mm socket, tighten your bolts once more. You should now tighten your bolts according to the instruction’s requirements. The remaining bolts will then receive the same treatment. We’ll now put our exhaust hanger back in place. With our hitch installed, the panel we had taken from the driver’s side would no longer fit, so we’re just going to leave it off. Although the manufacturer does not recommend it, you do have the option to trim it down. Our 2017 Toyota RAV4’s Draw-Tite Max-Frame trailer hitch is now fully installed.
In This Article...
Can a RAV4 be equipped with a trailer hitch?
A Draw-Tite 76201 trailer hitch, a few simple tools, and a brief amount of time are all that are needed to install a trailer hitch on a Toyota RAV4. The Toyota Rav4 model years 20192021 can use this trailer hitch and installation method.
Use your Toyota Rav4 to tow trailers and other types of hitch-mounted equipment right away by following these simple instructions.
Tools required:
- Eye protection
- Strap
- Mist Bottle
- Screwdriver, flathead
- Pliers for removing exhaust
- ratchet wrench
- Crows Foot & 19mm Adapter
Does adding a hitch invalidate a warranty?
Depending on the labor rates charged by the auto shop and the complexity of the installation, a professional hitch installation may cost $50 or more. The cost rises since more time is needed for some hitch installations than for others due to their greater complexity.
Depending on the installer’s level of experience, the tools being used, the state of the vehicle, and other factors, installing a hitch can take anywhere from 30 minutes to several hours or more. Check the installation instructions for your particular hitch for a useful guidance.
A trailer hitch installation does not void a car’s warranty. The 1975 Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act ensures that consumers can install aftermarket parts without worrying that doing so will void their warranty. The installation has to be done correctly, for example. Any installation done incorrectly won’t be supported (e.g. bolt holes drilled too close together, different hardware used, etc).
A RAV4 is able to tow a trailer.
With the right engine, the Toyota RAV4 can tow up to 3,500 pounds. Towing capacity for the Toyota RAV4’s standard 2.5L 4-cylinder engine is 1,500 pounds.
Can a RAV4 trailer be towed by one?
A RAV4 can tow an Uhaul trailer, a small caravan, cargo trailers, or bike racks with its average towing capability of 1500 kg.
Furthermore, the new Toyota RAV4 hybrid can tow a trailer weighing up to 750 kg without the use of brakes in either of its two mechanical versions and up to 1,275 kg with the 220H e-CVT 44 engine (up to 1,650 kg with permission B + E). Its maximum authorized mass is 2,135 kg in 42 and 2,225 kg in 44.
How to tow a trailer with a Toyota RAV4
Tow a Toyota RAV4 securely, there are a few easy-to-follow yet crucial precautions to take.
First, note the gross weight of the U-haul trailer. In the absence of this data, a nearby vehicle scale can be employed. Determine the tongue tow’s weight, which is aproximately 15% of the MAM of the trailer.
Second, note your RAV4’s towing capacity, which you can find in the owner’s manual. Depending on the model, kind, and size of the engine, this figure will change.
Find out the hitch trailer’s towing capacity next. Typically, hitch trailers fall into one of the following categories:
- Class 1 is capable of towing 900 kg;
- up to 1500 kg in Class 2;
- up to 2300 kg for class 3;
- up to 4500 kg, class 4.
Note: The MAM and the weight of the tow bar cannot be exceeded by the weight of the car plus the weight of the hitch trailer!
Are hitches commonplace?
CURT multi-fit hitches are made to be a dependable alternative to a custom fit and are intended to be a universal trailer hitch choice. Each multi-fit universal hitch is designed to accommodate a range of vehicle applications, and installation typically involves little to no drilling.
A trailer can a 2017 RAV4 tow?
Hello, I’m glad to find your online retailer. My 2017 Rav 4 is for sale. Will the trailer hitch installation and towing of a trailer affect the performance of my car? I refer to the car’s engine. as I’m traveling by car from Arizona to Washington. Please respond well so I can order and install one. Thanks
Expert Reaction:
You will require a trailer hitch receiver, wiring harness, and ball mount with hitch ball in order to tow a trailer with your 2017 Toyota Rav4. The Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver item # 75235 is the one I suggest utilizing for this since it has the highest rated weight capability of all our RAV4 hitches. I advise utilizing our 2″ Hitch Ball – 1″ Diameter part # 63845 with the Ball Mount 3/4″ Rise or 2″ Drop part # 2923 for a ball mount.
Additionally, a wiring harness is required. As this kit is plug-and-play, I advise utilizing the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector part number 118578. You will also require a component like part # PC3, part # e98880, or part # 63232 to secure the extension in your 2″ trailer hitch receiver in order to secure everything in addition to deterring theft.
The maximum towing capacity of the car, which affects how well it performs while towing, is 1,500 lbs; as long as you stay within that range, your vehicle is entirely safe and capable of towing a trailer. Towing more weight, though, might put more strain on your car’s transmission and engine. Installing a transmission cooler, like the Derale Series 8000 Plate-Fin Transmission Cooler part # D13502, or an engine oil cooler, like the Derale Stacked-Plate Engine Oil Cooler Kit with Sandwich Adapter part # D15602, is generally an excellent option for people that frequently or heavily tow.
Fortunately, there are installation videos available for many of my suggestions on a Toyota Rav4 from the same year.
What distinguishes Class 1/2 from Class 3 trailer hitches?
The differences between Class II and Class III hitches are related to the GTW, TW, and Hitch Receiver Size of the trailers, respectively. Class II trailer hitch receivers have a 1-1/4 inch receiver and have a maximum GTW and TW rating of 3,500 lbs and 525 lbs, respectively. In contrast, Class III has a 2 inch receiver and can weigh up to 8,000 lbs GTW and 800 pounds TW. I’ll send you a help article with further information in the attachment.
The Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver Class II # C12170 is a nice illustration of a Class II hitch that will fit on your 2015 Mazda CX-5. This will fit on your Mazda and has a maximum GTW and TW of 3,500 pounds and 350 pounds, respectively.
The Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver Class III # C13315 is my suggestion even though the Class II hitch can be used for a variety of things. The maximum GTW and TW for a Class III hitch are 4,000 lbs and 600 lbs, respectively. The Class III hitch has fewer limitations on what you can tow, even though your car’s overall towing weight capacity determines what you can tow.
You should also be aware that the Curt Support Strap # 18050 must be used with non-trailer loads according to the warranty for both of these trailer hitches.
I suggest the Thule Hitching Post Pro # TH934XTR if you’re looking for a hitch-mounted bike rack. It incorporates an anti-rattle bolt that lessens the vibration and noise produced by your bike rack, in addition to fitting on both 1-1/4 inch and 2 inch hitches.
If you choose to purchase the bike rack, you should also purchase the Thule Cable Lock # TH538XT as well as the Thule Snug Tite Hitch Lock and Anti-Rattle Device # THSTL2. These will aid in preventing theft of both your bike and bike rack. The Thule Bike Adapter Bar # TH982XT will aid in properly hanging your bike on the bike rack if it has an alternative, women’s, or child-sized frame.
I’ve attached some demonstration films for you as well as the help article I referenced earlier.
Tip #1: Go slowly
Regardless of whether you have assistance or not, it is always a good idea to go gently when hooking up a trailer. Take your time, and if necessary, don’t be reluctant to repeat a step.
Tip #2: Manually move the trailer
Instead of attempting to back the vehicle up to the trailer, if your trailer is light enough, push or pull it toward the car. Do not exert yourself. This approach might not work if the trailer is too hefty.
Tip #3: Place a marker on your vehicle
If your trailer is light enough, you should be able to pull or push it up to the car rather than trying to back the car up to the trailer. Spare yourself the strain. This technique might not be possible if the trailer is excessively hefty.
Tip 5: Open the driver door
Open your driver-side door and choose a location on the ground to use as a reference point when there is just one or two feet left between your car and the coupler. As you step back, measure the remaining distance using the point. To prevent damage, keep your coupler elevated above the trailer ball.
Tip #5: Use a backup camera
To watch the trailer as you back up more clearly, use a backup camera. Use a brightly colored stick or flag linked to the coupler to help you see your target if your car lacks a rear camera. You should be able to see the stick through your car’s back window if you point it straight up.