Here is an estimate of how much it would cost to elevate a truck utilizing the kits we covered above.
- A leveling kit that you purchase and install on your own may cost between $400 and $2000. You might pay between $800 and $4000 on a professional.
- If you do it yourself, buying and installing a raise kit might run you $400 to $4000. If done by a professional, it may cost between $800 and $12,000.
In This Article...
How long does a 3 inch raise kit installation take?
A lift kit installation may take a business a certain length of time. If it is a body/spacer lift kit, the actual installation time will usually take 1.53 hours. Expect the actual installation to take anything from three to six hours if it’s a suspension lift kit.
Everything depends on how many people are working on the lift kit and how much expertise the mechanic has. Additionally, the lift kit itself is a factor. Installing more complex, expensive lift kits with more parts will take longer than installing more straightforward, less expensive lift kits.
This does not imply that you can visit the mechanic shop in a short amount of time, though. The mechanic might be focusing on other tasks they need to finish. For your truck to be returned, you might need to come back in 24 to 48 hours.
What lift size fits Tacoma the best?
Bigger is always better, right, if larger lifts and tires result in more lift? Well, it could look good, but the extra cost isn’t always justified. When deciding which kit to pursue, you must consider the terrain your Tacoma will be driving on.
A leveling kit or 2 kit should be adequate for moderate trail use. You might wish to increase the lift to a 3-4 when you enter harsher terrain when the trail is littered with huge boulders and stumps. A 6 lift is significantly more suited when dealing with even bigger challenges, such as full-on rock crawling or anything comparable.
When purchasing big kits like a 6, be sure to pay close attention to suspension travel as well. Longer travel will aid in maintaining the truck’s stability when traversing rocky, uneven terrain.
Can I put a lift kit on my own?
Many of you may be wondering if you should hire a professional to install your lift kit or whether you can do it yourself.
A raise kit can enhance the appearance and ride of your car. However, the cost of having it installed can be high. Installing a raise kit typically costs between $600 and $700 in shops. In addition to buying the kit itself, this is required. The answer is straightforward for many people. They do it on their own. An easy lift kit installation can be done. However, it takes a lot of time. The installation of the kits takes a skilled professional between 5 and 7 hours. It typically takes an experienced private individual the entire weekend to work on an automobile.
Even while installing the lift kit is simple, it’s not necessarily simple. Additionally, some extremely specific instruments are needed. It will save time and money if you and your pals already have the necessary equipment. Good jacks and jack stands are required. It is much simpler to reach the necessary pieces once the car has been raised up and the axles have been dropped and supported. Additionally, it releases the strain from the suspension’s springs and other components, making replacement and addition much safer and easier. Installing the lift kit shouldn’t be an issue for those who feel confident with this procedure.
Your vehicle’s age and kind are important factors as well. Installing a raise kit on a vehicle with two wheels as opposed to four requires a somewhat different procedure. When you need to fabricate or weld parts for an older car, the process becomes much more difficult and intricate. Some people hire professionals to complete that type of work if their car needs it. However, you and a friend can do the entire process yourselves if you are confident in your abilities and can follow directions. Simply remove the coil spring with caution.
A lift kit installation takes time. It only requires drilling out and replacing rivets once the structure of the car is supported by individual jacks for each axle. A longer driveshaft can be required if the suspension of a four-wheel drive vehicle is being raised significantly. The transfer case’s angle may also need to be changed. Additionally, independent suspension vehicles are a little more labor-intensive and time-consuming. However, you can build your own raise kit as long as the steering linkage, sway bars, brake lines, and shocks are long enough.
A raise kit does it violate the warranty?
The warranty on any parts impacted or harmed by the raise kit will be void if you lift your truck over 2 inches (or at all for some models, including Toyota). However, coverage will continue for anything not connected to or impacted by the lift kit.
According to the MOPAR Extended Warranty, lifting/suspension packages for RAM cars are as follows:
The following losses or expenses are not covered by the plan and are not applicable:
Repairs necessary as a result of alterations or modifications made to the vehicle that were not authorized or advised by the maker, such as, but not limited to: (a) failure of any aftermarket or custom part (unless specified as a specific covered part); (b) changes made to the engine, transmission, or drive axle, including any performance changes; (c) Oversized or undersized tires; (d) any alterations to the frame or suspension;
lift kits larger than two inches; repairs to covered components caused directly by a lift kit failure larger than two inches;
Therefore, they will still be covered if your A/C unit breaks down or your head gasket leaks. However, we do not advise lifting your brand-new 2020 RAM 1500 or 2020 Jeep Gladiator any higher than the manufacturer’s recommended 2 point. Until the warranty expires, at least.
Want a truck you CAN lift?
We have a large selection of dependable, reasonably priced, and safe to lift trucks at Turpin CDJR. View our selection, and if anything catches your eye, give us a call.
What is the lifespan of a lift kit?
Superlift kits are meant to last for at least ten years. Although a lot of models endure a few more years, it’s impossible to predict how long a given lift kit will last. As was already indicated, regular maintenance will enable your Superlift lift kit to perform significantly better than expected. The most crucial factor is that you are aware of its limitations.
Maintenance Suggestions and Tips
- The Superlift lift kit should be kept neat and tidy. Whenever you wash your car, be sure to spend some time cleaning the underside as well. Dirt, muck, or rust should not be allowed to accumulate because doing so will cause the parts to corrode. Keep in mind that the guarantee does not cover improper maintenance.
- As Rezurxn pointed out, you ought to get your lift kit evaluated each time you have your car serviced. You can ask the mechanic to check under the car while they’re checking everything under the hood; it usually won’t cost too much extra. This straightforward advice will help you save money over time.
- Each few months, tighten the bolts. Although you might need a few more tools, looking for loose bolts will help you avoid accidents and lengthen the life of your raise kit. Rough driving, including off-road situations and potholes in the road, can cause loose bolts.
- Think about applying rust-resistant paint or spray. Both of them will function. Your lift kit will last longer if rust is avoided, and it will help stop abrasive cuts and other problems. The guarantee does not cover rust damage, so it’s critical that you prevent it from spreading. People who reside in humid climates should pay attention!
Your Superlift lift system doesn’t need to be difficult to maintain. You may make the most of your lift kit without having to spend a lot of money on repairs or new parts by paying attention to these easy suggestions.
How long can a truck lift be used for?
A 2-post or 4-post lift with proper maintenance can survive for many years. A secondhand 2-post or 4-post lift that is 20, 30, or even 40 years old is frequently available for purchase. However:
- Commercial lifts and “enthusiast lifts” have very different life expectancies. A commercial 2-post or 4-post lift is made to be utilized continuously throughout the day. Lifts for enthusiasts are not.
- A commercial 2-post or 4-post lift should last a very long period if it is properly maintained (cables need to be replaced every few years, lift needs regular lubrication).
- Many lift owners have complained about the floor anchors becoming looser. Although this is more of a concrete issue than a lift issue, it’s still a good thing to keep in mind.
Basically, 2-post and 4-post lifts made for commercial use will last as long as someone bothers to maintain them.
If properly maintained, a 2 post lift of a high quality brand like this one will survive for decades.
The 2-post and 4-post “enthusiast grade” lifts are a mixed bag. While the majority of enthusiast lifts are not commercial grade, some are. Most enthusiast lifts employ subpar hydraulics, inexpensive cables, and guide rollers, among other things. Although a lower-grade enthusiast lift would theoretically last as long as it is maintained, the maintenance expenditures can bankrupt you.
Last but not least, when it comes to maintenance costs, it makes sense to weigh the price of renovating and maintaining an existing lift against the price of purchasing a brand-new lift. It can end up being less expensive in the long term to buy new, depending on what needs to be replaced.
What equipment is necessary to install a lift kit?
Here are the tools you’ll need to install a lift kit, first things first:
- jack stands and vehicle jacks.
- Screwdriver.
- ratchet wrench.
- Plug wrench.
- wheel wrench.
Factory Tire Size on Tacoma
Factory is a relative term. It depends on the model you purchase and how your truck is delivered from the dealer. Depending on the model and trim package, we see everything from a 245/75/16 to a 265/70/17.
With pre-facelift 2nd gens, depending on whether you had a limited trim package or not, you have three options for tire size: 245/75/16, 265/70/16, and 265/65/17. With an additional 265/60/18 size offered from the factory, post facelifts offer the same size. Many of these same options are available with the 3rd Gen Tacoma right off the lot, and occasionally a dealership will mount 275s or 285s on a vehicle. It does happen occasionally, though.
Due to their reduced size, the 2WD vehicles came with somewhat smaller tires. The 4.0L XRunner came in a somewhat larger size, 255/45/18, but the 2.7L 2WD only came in one size, 215/70/15.
Why Bigger Tires?
Why is everyone going as huge as possible since bigger tires would reduce both your gas mileage and your power?
Bigger tires not only look amazing and give your vehicle a more aggressive posture, but they also provide you more ground clearance and typically have a better/wider footprint, which improves your truck’s off-road performance.
The frame and body of the car are lifted when a suspension lift is installed. With a body lift, the body is the only item that is being lifted. Whether they are applied to your body or your frame, both types of lifts are intended to increase your ground clearance. What about your axles, though? The answer is to use larger tires.
The distance between the ground and the lowest point of the trucklikely the axle or control armsessentially increases with larger tires. This is beneficial if you engage in a lot of off-road driving because the bigger tires will enable you to avoid running into barriers by allowing you to pass them.
More traction is another advantage of a bigger tire. This one is fairly self-explanatory, but airing down will make a difference. By improving flotation when your tires are inflated to a lower PSI (20 PSI rather than 40 PSI, for example), you can increase traction. Even additional traction is obtained by adding a larger tire to the mix and lowering the PSI.
Are 33s the Perfect Size?
Many of us will wish to keep our trucks suitable for daily driving. This means that switching to 35s from the factory tires could be a bit of a drastic shift, but switching to a 33 tire might be ideal. 285s are an excellent size because they are visibly larger than stock and, depending on the lift you’re using, require little to no cutting.
Let’s discuss power. Depending on your gear ratio, you can experience a slight power reduction while switching to a larger tire size. The good news is that the power loss is barely perceptible because 33s are only somewhat larger than factory tires. It would be a different situation if you were intending to leap to a 35-inch tire. You should think about re-gearing at the 33 stage regardless of whether you have a 33 tire or a 35 tire.
It totally depends on what you do with your Tacoma. If you go off-road frequently, you should definitely switch gears straight away. It’s not unheard of to drive 33s without re-gearing if you choose to cruise dirt roads and tackle simple to moderate trails; but, this will wear down your drivetrain, chassis, and third member’s factory gears over time.
Tires and Regearing?
From standard tires to 285/70R17, there is barely any power loss. We are considering a re-gear because it is visible on the interstate, especially going up hills at higher altitudes.
The final gear on both the 6spd and 5spd versions of the second-generation Tacoma with the 4.0L engine has a stock ratio of 3:73. The gear ratio increases to 4:10 for four-cylinder engines, and the basic trans has the same final gear as v6 cars. The standard gear ratio for the 2.7L 5spd and v6 automatic in third-generation Tacos is 3:909. The stock ratio for a 2.7L automatic and 3.5L six-speed transmission is 4:30.
Re-gearing enables you to move larger tires without burdening the engine further. The stock ratio for our second generation is 3:73, so a re-gear isn’t a bad idea even with 33s. If you have the 4.0L to go with 33s, the ideal gearing ratio would be 4:10 or 4:56. The vehicle would feel as though it were running on stock tires at 4:10s, and you would get about 200 extra RPMs at 70 mph. There should be a significant 300 RPM increase at 70 mph when using 4:56 gears.
Even though the premise is the similar, the third generation Tacomas would be slightly different, and a lot of it depends on tire size. If your truck didn’t already have them, you would choose 4:30s for 33s rather than 4:10s. If it does have 4:30s out of the box, you should probably choose 4:56s for a stock tire feel or 4:88s for a little bit higher RPM.
s and Lift Kits
While it’s not impossible, you will undoubtedly need to cut or trim something in order to fit 33s without a raise. Depending on whether you clear the control arms or not, you ought to be capable of lifting 2-3 pounds.
Although suspension lifts technically do not clear tires for off-road use, they can nonetheless be useful. Your body’s static ride height is altered when you lift your truck. For instance, while driving every day, you might not rub, but when driving off-road and stuffing that tire into your wheel well, you almost certainly will. This rubbing would be significantly harsher both on and off the road without a lift.
In response to the infamous query, no raise is necessary to accommodate 33-inch tires on a factory Tacoma; other modifications may be necessary, such as fender liner pushback, CMC (cab mount chop), rocker panel cap trimming, fender trimming, body trimming, etc. Having said that, you can still bolt the wheel and tire to your hub; you may simply need to perform some trimming. Something needs to give since even when you grow taller, the inner fender’s size remains constant.
In order to determine exactly what needs to be trimmed, we will place 33 tires on a stock, third-generation Tacoma without the use of a lift. Snail Trail 44 will shortly donate that truck.
Realize that it’s crucial that the tires under your Tacoma don’t rub, regardless of the size you choose. If they continue to rub and you don’t fix the problem, eventually you’re going to destroy something or rip something off.
Our up/down travel on the Bilstein 5100 kit 2.8 front with Icon Add a Leaf 2 rearit has cleared everything fairly well after mounting, operating, and flexing it. Following tire installation, there were NO general on-road rubbings on the fender liners or fender well. That included the curb drop test as well as full-lock reverse. The tires cleared the pavement fully.
Driving off-road is a little bit of a different situation. Even driving on a bumpy dirt road wasn’t too difficult, although when the tires were jammed into the wheel wells, they did rub a little. It wouldn’t take much cutting at all to completely clear 33s since they hardly ever rub on the inside of the fender close to the pinch weld.
Trimming
The only place where the Tacoma rubs after using the 33s daily for a few days is on the control arms. 1.25 hub-centric wheel spacers are going to be a quick and affordable solution. It appears like there is plenty of space between the tire and both the front bumper and the rear of the fender.
The lack of tire contact with the body during routine driving actually quite astonished us. The tire appears to have plenty of space between it and the front bumper and fender.
Even after driving the Taco off-road, there is barely any rubbing. At full flex, it does somewhat brush against the inner fender’s backside.
Clearing the Upper Control Arms
The SPC upper control arms are the only visible area we have rubbed thus far (UCAs). They scarcely make contact while traveling straight and it is barely visible. Turning while driving at parking lot speeds is quite obvious and somewhat unpleasant. There is a tiny vibration experienced when turning when traveling at highway speeds, but it is not particularly uncomfortable.
To pull the tire away from the hub, one solution would be to install some wheel spacers. Hub-centric wheel spacers are fully safe for both on- and off-road use as long as everything is torqued to specification. You only need the most popular size, 1.25, to completely clear the upper control arm.
Purchasing a set of wheels with a more aggressive offset is an alternative choice. Offset effectively moves the outside edge of the tire away from the hub, much like wheel spacers do.
Wheel Offset or Spacers
Both spacers and offset wheels have advantages and disadvantages. Offset wheels are theoretically equivalent to wheel spacers in terms of their negative effects on wheel bearings and other things. After all is said and done, the tire’s outer edge is being pulled away from the hub.
This does not imply that you should avoid purchasing 33s. If everything is fitted properly, your truck will be good with smaller wheel spacers and a lower offset. Since there is little room for error with hub-centric wheels and wheel spacers, this is particularly true.
On the other hand, rubbing problems on the body will result from running too much offset (negative). This is because the geometry of the wheel in relation to the body has changed. The body mount, front bumper, fender liner, and mudflap are just a few of the body parts that could be impacted.
Of the two possibilities, wheels will undoubtedly be more expensive. Hub-centric spacers, however, aren’t exactly inexpensive either. A pair of two often costs over $100.
Factory Wheel Size Offset
We brush against the control arm because of how much positive offset we have. Different sizes of stock Tacoma wheels correspond to various offsets.
While the TRD Beadlock range only has a +10 offset, TRD Offroad and TRD Sports typically have +30 offsets. The range of TRD Pro wheels has a +4. Additionally, the majority of SR5 and Limited wheels have an offset of +30, with the occasional +25.
You might not even require spacers or aftermarket wheels, depending on the Tacoma’s current set of wheels.