How To Change Rear Brake Pads On Toyota Celica

Do you mean the shoes on the back brakes? similar to drum brakes?

If your vehicle has rear disk brakes, all you have to do is unscrew the two bolts holding the caliper in place, then slip the caliper off and lay it aside. (Do not hang it from your brake line; it is improper.)

then the pads ought should just pop off. crazy-easy. Bolt the caliper back on after installing the replacements. done. Although I’ve heard of individuals having to squeeze the piston to reinstall them, I was usually able to do so without any trouble.

Can I replace the rear brake pads on my own?

Depending on your vehicle and driving style, brake pads should be replaced every 25,000 to 75,000 miles. You’ll discover that most professionals and automakers advise changing your brake pads every 50,000 miles on average.
As part of your standard inspection, ask your mechanic to check your brake pads on a regular basis. Always remember to examine your brake pads to see if they appear worn if you prefer to perform your own vehicle inspections. When you notice severe wear on your brake pads, replace them right once to keep your car safe.
Squealing, squeaking, and grinding noises are indications of wear. It’s probably time for a replacement if your automobile pulls to one side more than the other when you press the brake pedal or if you experience bouncing when coming to a stop.
Your car’s performance, dependability, and safety can all be enhanced by replacing the brake pads. You can tackle replacing your own brake pads as a DIY project if you’re confident performing your own vehicle maintenance. As with any auto modification or repair, check your owner’s manual for any special instructions or instructions before you start.

Connect a car battery charger

While performing this task, the first step is to connect a car battery charger. Many individuals overlook or disregard this step, but if you do not, it could really damage parts and result in several issues.

Connect a diagnostic tool

Connecting your diagnostic equipment or parking brake tool to your car is the next step. Make that the battery voltage is stable and that it can communicate with the vehicle.

Loosen the parking brake pistons

Release the parking brake pistons at this moment. Either a diagnostic scanner or a parking brake-specific instrument can be used for this. If everything is done correctly, you should hear the pistons moving backward for two to three seconds. The pistons can also be pushed back using 12v+ power and ground, but it is not something we’ll discuss here because it could harm your components. Additionally, you must perform a calibration thereafter, which is challenging without a tool. You can look at our guide to the top diagnostic tools if you need a tool for this. Make sure it is appropriate for your car model and compatible with your EPB system.

Remove Caliper & Push Pistons

It’s time to lift the car, take off your wheel, and remove the brake caliper when the parking brake pistons have been released. With a tool or a large plier, you ought should be able to press the pistons back at this point. If it is not possible, either it is extremely rusted and needs renovation, or you made a mistake in the step before. You cannot press the pistons in if the parking brake motor is not disengaged. Keep in mind that some pistons need to be twisted while being pushed in order for them to come in. You might need a tool like this one from Amazon for this:

Should brakes be bled before replacing pads?

Your braking system is the most important one in terms of essential parts. You must be able to stop at any time, no matter how quickly you’re moving. Hydraulic braking systems for vehicles operate by pushing pressurized fluid. There will be less pressure, spongy-feeling brakes, and lengthier stops if there is an air bubble in the system. But that’s only the start. The car might not stop at all if left unattended.

There is a technique to avoid this in addition to fixing it. Let’s examine when and how brakes should be bled.

When to Bleed Your Brakes

First off, you aren’t truly bleeding brakes; rather, you are removing air bubbles that may have developed prior to pouring fresh brake fluid by bleeding fluid and air out of the braking system.

When should you bleed your brakes?

when the brakes begin to feel soft.
when pauses take longer and you start to lose confidence.
if you discover a leak Air may also be let in through leaks in addition to fluid. Bleeding your brakes after fixing the leak is the only way to ensure that your system isn’t affected by an air bubble.
if you’re changing out worn-out brake pads, as this could lead to air getting into the master cylinder. More brake fluid is needed while braking with worn brake pads, which empties the reservoir and leaves room for air.
if you replace your brake pads or rotors. For the purpose of safety, every brake job needs to include a brake bleed.
As part of good preventive maintenance, once a year.

How to Bleed Your Brakes

You’ll need a screwdriver for Torx screws (detectable by the six-pointed groove on their heads), as much fresh brake fluid your car needs, and a container to catch the used fluid for all four methods of bleeding brakes.

Here are the four techniques for bleeding brakes:

Put a container underneath the bleeder screw, turn the screw to let the old fluid fall into the container by gravity. Afterward, there will be cleanup. The liquid won’t fall in a straight line; instead, it will drip down components in the space between the container and the bleeder screw.
By hand: Place a container beneath the bleeder screw and open it as someone gently presses and releases the brake pedal, forcing the fluid and air out of the system. Smoothly use the brakes to prevent the formation of further air bubbles that could linger and contaminate the fresh fluid. Make sure the fluid isn’t frothy, as that indicates that new air bubbles are beginning to form.
Once more, place a container under the bleeder screw and open it to provide pressure. The fluid and air should then be forced through the system and into the container using a tank of pressurized braking fluid at the master cylinder.
Vacuum: For this technique, when you open the bleeder screw, fasten a vacuum bleeder to it. It extracts the liquid and air into a connected container.

Regardless of the route you take, bleeding your brakes when there is a problem or as part of routine maintenance ensures that your braking system operates as effectively as possible and keeps you and your passengers safe.

NAPA Online has a comprehensive selection of brake fluid; or, visit one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare facilities for regular maintenance and repairs. Visit your neighborhood NAPA AUTO PARTS store to speak with a trained specialist for more details on bleeding your brakes.

Does it pay to do your own brake maintenance?

To assist you with changing your own brake pads, there is a ton of information available online on do-it-yourself auto repairs. However, unless you already have auto maintenance skills, it may be more difficult than it sounds to perform tasks like changing your own brake pads or even your own oil.

If you don’t know the parts, not only can a lot of things go wrong, but you also risk missing additional serious brake concerns if you don’t know how to identify them. When you brake, you could hear grinding noises or feel your brake pedal sink quickly, but these issues could actually be the consequence of worn brake pads, a fractured rotor, or air bubbles in the braking lines. In turn, you might discover that you require more intricate repairs or parts in addition to the pads.

It’s wise to refrain from replacing your brake pads only because they frequently lead to brake issues. Before making assumptions or troubleshooting your brake pads at home, it is preferable to have an automotive expert inspect your brake system. Free thorough brake inspections are available at Firestone Complete Auto Care.

Pro Tip: Due to the extra components and connections that the front brakes lack, changing the brake shoes on vehicles with rear drum brakes can be particularly challenging. Generally speaking, it’s better to always let a qualified service professional handle front and rear brake repair.

Can you replace brake pads while using the handbrake?

Electric parking brake systems come in two different categories:

Electric motor: This electric parking brake system is a feature of various GM automobiles. Similar to a conventional parking brake system, but with a motor pulling the cord instead of a person’s hand or foot. A parking brake control module is the name of the motor. Once engaged, it uses the parking brake wire to pull the parking brake shoes.
Parking brake actuator: Vehicles with an electronic parking brake system that are not GM can have this system. Parking brake actuators are fixed to both rear brake calipers. A gear that has the ability to drive out the caliper piston is connected to each parking brake actuator. The parking brake actuator has the ability to shift that gear when engaged. The brake pads are pushed up against the rotor by the piston as a result. To put it another way, when this system is engaged, the rear brake pads can serve as the parking brake.

When an automobile is put into park, the parking brake is often activated automatically, even if the driver doesn’t press the parking brake switch. You must first turn off the electric parking brake in order to replace the brake pads on the rear brakes.

What actions are involved in replacing brake pads?

Before we continue, allow me to emphasize how crucial it is to keep yourself safe while working on your car or engaging in other activities. Although it may give you an adrenaline rush, taking needless risks is especially inappropriate when working on your car in the garage.

#1Before Starting

gather the components. The rotors may need to be returned to the parts store for machining, but not if you plan to purchase new ones. So purchase the components and materials that are required.

Update your shop with the essential tools mentioned above before anything else. If some tools are good, more are better, according to my rule. Maintain a balance between this idea and marital harmony.

Wearing mechanic’s gloves could be a good idea if you want to keep your hands clean or protected. You should always put on a protective dust mask before engaging in any activity that releases dust into the air.

#2Jack Up the Vehicle and Remove Wheels

Wheel chocks should be positioned under the tires of the opposing axle before jacking up your car. Consider which direction the car would roll if the front or rear ends were elevated. Since the front wheels do not have parking brakes, this is particularly crucial while working on the rear brakes.

With the aid of a lug wrench or breaker bar, loosen the wheel lug nuts (NOT a torque wrench). When you attempt to loosen these nuts while the automobile is still on the ground, the wheels will desire to turn.

Put the parking brake all the way in if you’re changing the front brake pads. When changing rear brake pads, avoid using the parking brake because doing so will prevent the calipers from being disassembled.

Use your hydraulic floor jack to raise the front or rear of your automobile to a convenient operating height while adhering to safe jacking procedures. You can raise the automobile with the best jack points by consulting your shop manual.

Place two jack stands in symmetrical positions on the right and left of the automobile, then lower the floor jack such that the stands are bearing the majority of the weight.

Warning:

DON’T use the scissor-type jack that came with your automobile to elevate it. That jack is only for flat tires and should not be used for any repairs.

The horizontal frame rails or the frame supporting the lower control arms of the front suspension may make good places for jack stands. Keep the floor jack in position with some of the weight supported even though the car is supported by the jack stands. If a jack stand fails, this offers a second load path.

While you are working, jacks or jack stands placed on sloping surfaces run the risk of letting the automobile fall to the ground. For the car to be 100% secure during the job, these lifting and support devices must only be used on flat, horizontal surfaces.

Wheels that are elevated should be removed. Removal should be simple because you have had the lugs loosen before jacking up the car. For all nuts, bolts, and other hardware removed during this job, use a magnetic tray, coffee can, or another suitable container to store them in.

#3Remove Caliper Bolts and Caliper Assembly

Start at either side of the vehicle. By rotating your steering wheel to the right or left, you may better reach fasteners on the front spindle and rotor assembly. If your automobile has a steering wheel lock, you will need to unlock it in order to move the rotors.

Take a look at the braking caliper. Now think about how to get to the pads so you can take them off. You’ll observe that the pads can only be taken off facing the rotor’s center.

There will be one of the following two possible arrangements for pad retention:

Caliper Type 1: Pads Retained by the Piston Assembly

In this instance, it will be clear that the piston assembly slides on two pins. Remove each of the two sliding pins in order to separate the piston assembly. There will be a need for a hex bit socket. Remove the pads and piston assembly from the rotor.

Hang the piston assembly from a strong feature above, such as a coil of the spring, using a length of coat hanger wire (if present). The hydraulic hose could be damaged if the piston is allowed to hang by it.

Caliper Type 1: Pads Retained By a Separate Bracket

Two pins still serve as the piston’s guides, but they are not need to be taken out. The removable bracket can be handled in the following way: Lower bracket bolt should be loosened. The upper bolt should be removed, and the bracket assembly and pads should be moved away from the disc.

In the two scenarios mentioned above, the pads may only be loosely gripping the rotor. In this case, place a screwdriver blade between the rotor and the surface of either pad. Pry the pad now just a little bit free from the rotor. This will reduce the traction that both pads have on the rotor, allowing them to slide off easily.

Important:

Do not apply the brakes once the brake pads have been removed from the rotor. This will result in a loss of braking fluid and the piston(s) popping out of the caliper. Without the right tools, reassembly will be quite challenging.

#4Remove Old Brake Pads

In the surrounding assembly, the pads are located in a groove (either piston or bracket). They can now be eliminated by sliding them in the direction of the empty space left by the rotor.

The ends of the pad may have flimsy metal guide strips. Once installed, take note of how they are removed. You might have to utilize the old components if your new pads don’t have these metal strips.

#5Examine Brake Rotor (Replace, Resurfacing, or Leave As-Is)

Examine the rotor to decide whether to change it, get it resurfaced, or just leave it for the time being. Review the part above titled “What About the Brake Rotors?”.

You must remove your rotor in order to replace or resurface it. This is how:

Start by looking for a holding screw through the rotor or a snap ring on one of the wheel studs surrounding the elevated center portion. Any of them must be taken out if they are there. Now, if you wiggle the rotor by hand, it ought to come off easily. But it might be obstinate. Then steps 2 or 3 following might be helpful.
The central section of the rotor may contain one or even two threaded holes directly across from one another. If so, one or both of these holes can be tightened with a bolt of the proper size. Tighten the bolt using a wrench (s). The rotor should become loose enough to be removed with this amount of force.
The rotor can be loosened using the following method if there are no threaded holes: Using a hammer, lightly tap a short 2 x 4 block against one rotor edge many times. The rotor should become more pliable as a result and come off.

#6Retract (Push In) Pistons

The caliper piston(s) must be forced into the piston housing in order to get ready for the reassembly procedure (piston push-back). When done correctly, the exposed surface of the piston should be flush (or nearly flush) with the surface of the surrounding housing. This action will force fluid back into the engine bay’s brake master cylinder.

Find the brake master cylinder first, and then gently wipe off any grime or grease from the area around the cover. For this job, a toothbrush can be beneficial. Removing the reservoir cover next.

Using a piece of tubing from the materials mentioned above or a turkey baster, siphon roughly 90% of the liquid from the reservoir into a suitable container. swap out the cover.

Caution:

Reminder: Spent brake fluid must be properly disposed of. It might be possible for your preferred repair shop or local auto parts store to get rid of it for you.

Now, insert the piston(s) using a C-clamp and a flat piece of wood (5 long by 2 broad by 3/8 ” thick) or even an old brake pad:

Affix the wood to the piston (s).
Place the C-clamp so that the fixed portion is against the back of the piston housing and the screwed portion is against the middle of the wood.
Once the piston(s) have fully inserted themselves into the piston housing, slightly tighten the clamp.

#7Clean All Parts

The first wheel has now been completely disassembled. Now, using the spray brake cleaner, gently clean all the reusable bolts and components as follows:

If the sliding pins that hold the caliper in place have been taken out, they need to be cleaned with brake cleaner and then rinsed. These pins’ rubber boots ought to be in good condition. If not, replacements will need to be purchased from the parts store. Purchase two sets because you might require a second pair for the car’s other side.
Clean the holes where the sliding pins were inserted with Q-Tips. Before reassembly, high temperature brake lubricant should be lightly coated on the pins themselves and the interiors of the rubber boots.
Clean any fasteners and reusable metal shims and spacers.
Clean the brake pad guiding surfaces in the piston assembly or pad mounting bracket with a wire brush. Utilize a shop vacuum to gather the dust that is generated when brushing.
To finish cleaning these places, use a paintbrush or toothbrush. Next, wipe the areas with a paper towel that has been wet with brake cleaner.
Before reassembly, a very little layer of high temperature brake grease should be applied to the brake pad guide grooves in the piston assembly or mounting bracket.
Utilize a paper towel that has been dampened with brake cleaner to thoroughly clean the pushing face(s) of the caliper piston(s).
The area of the wheel hub that makes contact with the braking rotor should be wire-brushed. Use a paper towel that has been wet with brake cleaner to remove any loose debris.
If your brake rotors are brand-new, they will be lightly oily rust-proofed. Use brake solvent to completely remove this. The necessity to clean resurfaced rotors using brake solvent is comparable.
Apply a thin layer of anti-seize lubricant with a brush to the region of the center hole on the new or re-machined rotor where it meets the hub’s center. This will make future rotor removal much simpler by reducing local corrosion.