I generally take off all the lugs, thread them back on about 4 or 5 turns, then drive the truck back and forth a few feet while very gently and softly, and then I jack her up and they fall right off because I get anxious banging the wheel/tire when the truck is in the air.
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How is a Toyota tire taken off?
How to Change a Flat Tire Guide
- Stop and park in a secure area.
- Your hazard lights should be on.
- Apply the wheel wedges and parking brake.
- Take off the wheel cover or hubcap.
- Take off the lug nuts.
- Leverage the Jack to raise your Toyota.
- Take off the lug nuts.
- Take the flat tire off.
In what order should a tire be changed?
Tire flat and stuck? Here are the 10 steps to changing a tire.
- Locate a Secure Overpass to Pull Over.
- Inspect the materials.
- Your car should be raised off the ground.
- Remove the Tire and the Lug Nuts.
- Fix the spare tire to the vehicle.
- Switch out the lug nuts.
- Lower the car and start tightening.
When changing tires, should the automobile be in neutral?
If an issue were to arise with one of your car’s current tyres, you might find yourself needing to change a tire.
If you follow the correct technique while changing a tire, even if you’ve never done it before, you should be fine. You can learn more about what to do in our changing a tyre tutorial here.
Here, we’ll concentrate on common errors that a novice tire changer could make and explain why you should steer clear of them.
DON’T change a tyre at the side of the road
The greatest places to change tires are places that are far away from the road. You’d be better off calling a breakdown service if you discover that a tire suddenly requires replacing while travelling on the road and you can’t safely stop your car somewhere away from the road.
It is challenging to do a tire replacement right alongside the road because you need a decent bit of space to do so securely and properly. Not to mention that you would be unnecessarily endangering yourself and other road users. Another major no-no is changing tires on the hard shoulder of a highway.
DON’T change a tyre on loose or uneven ground
If you’re going to change a tire on your car, you should do it where the ground is level and smooth.
It’s not a good idea to try changing a tire on a gravelly or grassy surface because it’s harder to work on and there’s a chance that equipment, like the jack, could slip while being used.
DON’T have any passengers in the car
Imagine that you had to change a car tire on short notice and that you were able to locate a location that would be adequate for the task. Before you start changing the tire, make sure all of your passengers, including any animals, have exited the car. Make sure they travel somewhere safe that is not near a vehicle or a busy road.
A person moving around inside the vehicle while changing a tire adds extra weight that could be obstructive and will just make the task more difficult than it needs to be.
DON’T do any checks or work under your vehicle while it’s raised on a jack
To prepare your automobile for a tire replacement properly, you’ll need a car jack. However, using this tool to perform lengthy work below your car is not recommended.
Therefore, resist the urge to even glance below your car while changing a tire, even if there is something else about the automobile you want to inspect.
You need the proper tools to perform any type of maintenance on your automobile that involves spending time underneath it, or you can get it serviced. Working underneath your car is not secure enough with only a car jack.
DON’T use the jack anywhere you’re not supposed to
A car jack should only be used on particular parts of an automobile. When replacing a tire, you should position the jack at the suggested lifting point near the removed wheel.
If you don’t install the jack correctly, you risk damaging your car’s undercarriage and risk having an accident since the jack may not support the car securely. To determine the proper lifting points, see the owner’s manual for your car.
If you don’t have the owner’s manual handy for whatever reason, you can look for information online or get support from your automobile manufacturer’s customer care.
DON’T leave the car in neutral
It’s crucial to remember to leave the vehicle in the proper gear when changing a tire on a manual transmission vehicle. Naturally, you should turn off the engine before beginning the tire change. However, you should leave the gearstick in either first or reverse.
The handbrake only works on two wheels, often the rear wheels, which is why you want to do this. With the engine turned off, shifting into first or reverse causes the front wheels, which are typically the driven wheels, to lock.
If your vehicle has an automatic transmission, you may leave it in the “Park” or “P” position.
Can a stock FJ run 33 mph?
Actually, there isn’t a straightforward response to this query. It might be 33s, 35s, or even something huge like 49s (yep, a FJ is currently rolling on 49s). The purpose of the FJ, any supporting modifications, and your budget all play a significant role in tire size. It goes without saying that larger tires will cost more money. In the FJ community, 33s and 35s are the most typical numbers, but lately, more and more peopleincluding myselfseem to be trying their luck with 37s. To accommodate all that flesh beneath a FJ, it is advised to upgrade to a solid axle.
What do I have to do to fit 33s (285/70/17 ) on my FJ?
Given how easy it is to get 33s to work (in our case, 285/70/17s), I’d guess this is the tire upgrade that FJC owners most frequently choose to do. In fact, depending on the particular tire, wheel, and front-end alignment, you could install these on a standard vehicle with almost any rubbing, if any at all.
I should point out that a true 33-inch off-road tire will have a diameter of about 33 and a width of 12.5 inches. Due to the offset and backspacing of the factory FJ wheels, attempting to run these tires on standard wheels and stock suspension will not be successful without wheel spacers. The upper control arm will eventually come into touch with them “UCA), and you most likely won’t be able to attach the wheel to the hub. I would advise 1.25 Spidertrax spacers if you decide to go the wheel spacer way. These spacers have been working well for me for the past eight years. 33s, 35s, and now 37s have been observed. You start to experience rubbing on the body mounts and mud flaps as a result of spreading the wheels out farther. Mud flaps can be removed for a simple fix. It’s more difficult to mount on the body. I’ll elaborate on that later.
A 2-3 inch lift and/or a body mount chop are often some of the most popular supporting modifications for installing 285/70/17 tires ( “BMC), as previously stated. Do you know what a body mount chop is? You can see a rounded piece of metal sticking out into the wheel wells from just below the firewall if you look behind your front mud flaps. This is your “bodies mounts You must do the following to prevent them from rubbing against the tires: “Cut them back or chop them. We’ll discuss the BMC in further detail later.
What do I have to do to fit 35s (315/70/17) on my FJ?
35s will require some modification to suit your FJ well and without rubbing. You’re going to require aftermarket UCAs, a more aggressive BMC, a cutting tool for plastic, a BFH (Big Fuggin’ Hammer), extend rear bump stops, body raise, alignment, and perhaps a regear in addition to what was indicated above for the 33s. I did indeed say “maybe a regear.” Although it is advised, I can’t claim that it is definitely necessary.
Before I get into the gearing side of it, let me first explain what must be done to fit 35s without rubbing.
- obstinate BMC To avoid rubbing at full lock, you must cut the body mount back as far as you can.
- Cut plastic or get rid of it.
- There will likely be some OEM fender flare components and plastic on the firewall side of the wheel well that has to be reduced. If your bumper is still standard, you’ll probably need to reduce the lower portion of the bumper and the front plastic portion of the wheel well.
- Start hammering pinch welds in the front and rear wheel wells as well as some of the elevated areas on the firewall that protrude slightly. A body lift is a suitable substitute for beating the firewall. The firewall should be easily accessible with a 1 inch body lift at full tuck and complete steering lock.
- Extended bump stopsare available from a number of manufacturers so that, when the rear wheel is fully tucked, it doesn’t grind against the interior of the wheel well.
- Upper control arms from third parties
- The goal is to pull the tire away from the firewall and body mount by increasing the caster by a few degrees. While some of them have two to three degrees already built in, others let you change the caster and camber.
- Alignment is required following the installation of the aftermarket UCAs.
- As Gearingas indicated above, regearing is absolutely recommended if you have the resources to do so, but it isn’t always necessary. Better gas mileage, factory power, and cruise control functionality are all still available. You should definitely regear if you live in the highlands or a region with a lot of hills. Otherwise, the power loss would drive you insane and your transmission will continuously be looking for gears.
315/70/17 tires are extremely similar in size to a standard 35 x 12.5 off-road tire. They will measure approximately 34.5 x 12.4 depending on the maker.
An FJ Cruiser on 37s and IFS you say!?
Yes, you did read that right. Men are running 37s, including myself. Even though I wouldn’t normally advise doing it, it is doable.
I won’t go into too much detail, but everything you did to fit 35s will need to be done again and then some to fit 37s. You’ll probably require a body mount RELOCATION rather than a body mount CHOP. Additionally, to make everything fit without rubbing when fully tucked, you’ll need to cut and weld in the wheel wells. Regearing might not be a possibility right now. Even the thought of trying to turn these monsters with the factory 3.73 gears makes me cringe. At the very least, I would choose a 4.56: 1 ratio, but I would strongly advise 4.88s or perhaps 5.29s. When I got my 35s, I regeared to 4.88, but now I kind of wish I had 5.29s.
I wouldn’t suggest 37s if you’re not into cutting, hammering, welding, and regearing.
inch tires and beyond!
Unless you have a lot of time and money on your hands, going above 37s is not a good idea. While there are still a few individuals who insist on using IFS with 40s, the majority will perform a solid axle swap (“SAS”) and remove all of the IFS, which is essentially where I am at this time. We’ll be using a Dana Super 60 up front and a Sterling 10.5 in the back, both with 42 Pitbull Rockers. Keep an eye out for some build postings of that project this winter!
Last but not least, I should point out that while choosing tires, your wheeling style should also be taken into account. I would recommend sticking with a smaller tire if you want to drive fast and bounce your vehicle over obstacles. The likelihood of breaking increases with tire size and rotational mass.
If I didn’t cover everything you needed to know to choose the largest tire for your FJ, please leave a comment below or send us an email, and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can.
Can 35-inch tires be mounted on a FJ Cruiser?
35s are possible, although they very certainly will rub, if not on the road. If you preferred, you may keep the upper control arm as is. On my fj with sway away coil overs and factory ucas, I tried a mates 35×12.5r16 tire, and it worked but rubbed a lot at full lock turning and under severe compression. Because my fj tires are roughly 34 inches tall and 11 inches broad, I chose a 285/75r17 for them. What hurts you is the breadth, and the majority of 35s are really 34.5. Additionally, the Nitto is a wonderful middle ground between not re-gearing and losing all of your power.
You can complete all of the work necessary on your own, with the exception of the alignment, and it’s a fantastic way to become comfortable with your equipment in case it ever fails in the wild. Use a sawzall to cut the body mount, and get a $150 welder to do it yourself. You will acquire a new talent while saving money compared to hiring someone to do it.
What instrument do you use to remove a tire?
As you continue down the road, you feel a disturbance, hear a thump, and then a loud flapping sound. Wherever you heard the sound, your steering wheel starts to pull in that direction. Your tire just developed a flat. If you have never encountered this issue, you likely have a few questions. I need to fix a flat tire; what tools do I need? How can a flat tire be changed? We’ll be showing you how to achieve that today.
What do I need to change my tire?
Your car might occasionally have a secret compartment in the trunk that contains these supplies. If your car does not have the concealed compartment, you must get this. A spare tire, an impact wrench, a lug wrench or deep socket wrench that fits the lug nuts/bolts, and a jack are the four tools required to change a tire. Scissor jacks, bottle jacks, and bumper jacks are the three types of jacks that are available for purchase. Depending on the make, model, and year of your car, you might also require a wheel lock, extensions bars, and alignment studs.
There are several convenience gadgets you’ll want to buy even if this is all you truly need to change a tire. Professional mechanics advise having a flashlight, hand wipes, tarp or mat, plastic rain poncho, tire pressure gauge, tire blocks, road flares, or reflective triangles, and a piece of plywood on hand.