Every day after work, Tony from our sales department would struggle to start his Toyota with no cranking at all. After changing his battery, starter, and a number of other items, he continued to look for folks who had the same problem with 22RE pickup trucks. Sure enough, he came across a report of someone who had a similar issue and discovered a solution utilizing affordable universal parts, which are readily available at practically every part store.
What you’ll require is:
- Relay of 30 amps (a starter relay for a 1978 Bronco would do) Tony utilized the P/N SS 581
- 8-gauge wire with a resistant-to-oil and gasoline insulation
- (3) Ring terminals 8 gauge.
- 14-gauge wire with an insulation resistant to gasoline and oil
- Piercing Terminals
- Dielectric Oil
- Heat Swell
- Crank wire with a starter connector taken from a junkyard
Instructions:
- Install the connector next to the battery on your car’s fender. The main reason is because this specific relay grounds itself through the mounting bracket attached to the fender (run an extra ground wire if you can’t achieve a clean connection through the mounting bracket). Remove the paint and dirt from the area of the fender where you’ll mount your new relay. (Phrase four in the diagram below).
- Use 14ga wire and add a male spade connector and ring terminal on either side of it. The ring terminal of the relay should be connected, and the spade terminal should be plugged into your OEM crank wire connector (the black wire that leaves your harness under the intake plenum and used to terminate on the starter). As long as the crank wire can reach it, this wire can be as short as you desire. (Position 2 in the diagram below).
- Connect the new relay to the battery using an 8ga wire. It is advised to add a fuse to this circuit. (The first item on the graphic below)
- Kevin advises making this wire very long and wrapping all the extra wire around the relay so that if you ever need to bypass your ignition and/or this new starter relay, you can disconnect this extra long wire from the relay and terminate it directly on the positive battery terminal. Run another 8ga wire from the relay to the starter, and this is where you use the crank wire connector you found at the junkyard – splice it to the end of the 8ga wire. (The third item on the diagram below)
You’re all done now. How did you act? When you turn the key, you only need a very weak signal through the ignition to trigger the new starter relay, and the relay gives the starter a nice fresh strong 12 volts. You bypassed the worn out wiring for your ignition (and in your factory starter relay, if you have one; some early 22RE’s don’t). That clean 12v should be enough to always start you up, even if your old starter has worn-down contacts.
Just so you know, you are not required to obtain the additional starter connector. There is always the option to disconnect the existing one off the harness and connect your crank wire directly to the relay. The benefit of carrying out the procedure as we just described is that your factory harness will remain intact. You can always skip the extra relay wire and return to the factory setup without even pulling out any tools. The benefit of not doing it this way is that you avoid having to travel to a junkyard and spend a significant amount of time looking for a 22RE harness that hasn’t already been destroyed by previous clients.
In This Article...
How can you tell if the starting relay is functioning?
Thanks to their advantageous location in the engine bay, starter relays may fortunately be serviced without having to raise the vehicle. For your assessment, you will require the following equipment:
- an electronic multimeter
- Wire
Having a helper available to turn the ignition while you conduct your testing is also beneficial.
Step 1: Test for Electrical Resistance
Put probes on the ground lead and the ignition circuit terminal using your multimeter. You need to replace your starting relay if the reading is greater than 5 Ohms. A wire jumper can also be used to test for resistance. To check for a forceful click, connect a wire between the battery lead and the ignition circuit lead. Weak clicks suggest a problem with the starter relay.
Step 2: Test for Voltage
Set your multimeter to 20V DC and attach the red probe to the battery’s red wire terminal while positioning the other probe on the black and white ignition switch circuit. The voltage drop shouldn’t be more than 0.2 volts when your assistant flicks the ignition. In that case, you have a problem with electrical conductivity and require a new starter relay.
What signs might point to a failed starter relay?
Similar to other mechanical and electronic parts of your car, the starter relay will start to malfunction before it completely fails. The following is a list of several indicators of damaged or worn starting relays. Please schedule an appointment with a nearby ase-certified mechanic if you notice these warning signals so they can thoroughly inspect your vehicle because these symptoms could lead to a problem with other parts.
The starting solenoid and the motor should stop operating when the ignition switch is turned off. The engine won’t start if the starter relay doesn’t operate in this sequence. The major contacts are probably already joined together, in the closed position. If this occurs, the starter relay will become stuck in the on position, potentially harming the starter, circuit, relay, and drive flywheel if left unattended.
1) It is impossible to start the car
One of the most evident indicators of an automobile breakdown is a car that won’t start. The starting relay failure is frequently the root of the issue, despite the fact that there are numerous other potential problems that could stop the automobile from starting. We must first gain a better understanding of the starter relay’s operation before we can comprehend why.
Your battery is shook when you turn the ignition key, causing an electrical energy surge to be released. This energy turns your engine by activating the starter motor. A beginning relay completes the circuit before it reaches the starter motor, but as it does so, it also causes the battery current to rise.
Your starter motor won’t receive an electrical signal from your battery if your starter relay is broken. So your engine won’t start no matter how many times you turn the key. If the circuit is not disrupted, you can hear a click when you turn the key. You should get professional assistance to thoroughly assess the symptoms and determine the reason in either scenario.
When you turn on your ignition, current is sent to the ignition switch by the starting relay and the starting solenoid.
The flexible board is rotated by the starter motor to start the engine, and it is powered by a solenoid.
The starting solenoid and the motor should stop operating when the ignition switch is turned off. If the starting relay doesn’t operate in this order, the main contacts are likely already welded together and in the closed position, which keeps the engine running. If this occurs, the starter relay will become stuck in the on position, potentially harming the starter, circuit, relay, and drive flywheel if left unattended.
When the relay comes into contact with something or is exposed to a lot of power, it typically happens. This issue needs to be identified and fixed very now because it has the potential to harm the boot system as a whole.
3) A clicking noise is produced by the starter.
Typically, relays work on an all-or-nothing basis. Either the entire current is sent, or nothing is sent. But if the starter relay is damaged, only a portion of the signal can be transmitted.
The starter motor is not receiving enough electricity from the starter relay, as evidenced by the starter relay making a clicking noise but the engine not rotating. This might potentially indicate a low or dead battery. The relay doesn’t operate until it sends the starter adequate current. Smaller power may ruin the entire starting mechanism or result in the car not starting at all, along with an unpleasant clicking noise.
Both of these issues could be brought on by relays that are rusted, old, and have broken contacts. The only two repair choices are to replace the old relay or clean the contact points to ensure proper flow. Use sandpaper or a gravel scraper to remove the corrosion off the relay’s surface. To acquire a greater output, you can either change the relay or consult a qualified mechanic.
Every time the starter is turned on when the starter relay is functioning, the starter receives power. However, this substance can become contaminated by debris, grime, and extreme heat. The flow of current is impeded by corrosion and residue in the circuit. These circumstances may compel the beginning relay to operate sporadically.
The starting relay is the fundamental part of the ignition system, and because it has so few moving parts, it seldom breaks down. But when it does, conductivity problems are to blame. Under the hood, there might be a broken or corroded wire connection if the relay isn’t acting up.
What supplies the starter relay with power?
An ignition system component known as a starter relay is created specifically to transfer electricity from the vehicle battery to the starter solenoid. This suggests that it is a switch that controls both the starter motor and solenoid.
Its main purpose is to effectively transport current from the car battery to the starter. Most auto workers and owners mistake a starter relay for a starter solenoid. These are two different parts of the ignition system.
In order to transmit electrical current from the starter solenoid to the starter motor, the starter solenoid functions as an activating coil of a connection. The purpose of starter solenoids is to align the starter pinion with the engine’s ring gear.
What is the relationship between the starter motor, starter solenoid, and starter relay? When you switch it on with your key in the ignition, energy is sent to the starter relay, which powers the starter solenoid, which powers the starter motor.
When you turn on the ignition, a starter relay transmits a little electric current to the starter solenoid, while the solenoid itself receives a significant current straight from the vehicle batteries. The starter motor receives electricity from the solenoid as a result, and the flywheel is subsequently spun.
This approach is used by all current starters. To activate the solenoid and start the starter, which turns the flywheel, they rely on the starter relay. When starting your car, the starter relay is crucial.
Can a defective relay prevent a car from starting?
A contemporary car’s electrical system is what keeps it alive. Modern automobiles are primarily electronic objects, and just like any electronic device, the performance of all four of these systemic compartments (the powertrain, body, chassis, and communication protocol) depends on the electrical fixtures used, such as cables, relays, and other components.
One of the most crucial electronic relays present in contemporary vehicles is the ignition relay. It supplies power to the vehicle’s ignition system and part of the fuel system’s components, and is often found in the fuse and relay panel under the bonnet. The relay turns on when the key is turned to the “on” position, sending electricity to the fuel pump and ignition coils as well as other ignition and fuel system parts of the car. The operation of the vehicle may experience serious issues if the relay malfunctions or has a difficulty. The typical signs of a faulty or malfunctioning ignition relay can alert the motorist to a potential problem.
Car stalls out while running: One of the most typical signs of a bad ignition relay is a car that stalls out while running. The fuel pump and ignition system will no longer have power if the ignition relay shorts, burns out, or experiences other failures while the engine is running. Because the fuel and spark are shut off, the car will stall out right away. In some cases, a malfunctioning relay will allow the car to restart after it cools off, but after it overheats, the car will stall out again.
No power is another sign of a bad ignition relay, which results in the car not starting. The fuel pump and ignition system will lose power if the relay malfunctions, which will cause no power and, consequently, no start. The accessories and maybe the engine can be turned on by turning the key. The lack of power to the fuel and ignition systems, however, prevents the car from starting. A proper diagnosis is advised in order to determine the exact nature of the problem because similar symptoms can also be brought on by a wide range of other problems.
Dead battery: Another sign of a bad ignition relay is a dead battery. If the relay has an internal short, it might continue to supply power to the fuel and ignition systems even when the key is off or the ignition cylinder is in a different position. This will result in the fuel pump and ignition parts always being powered on and using current, which will eventually cause the battery to die. In addition to depleting the battery, this could hasten the wear and tear on the parts, particularly the gasoline pump, by leaving them powered on but inactive.
Relay that has been burned: In some circumstances, it is possible for the relay to get overheated to the point of melting and burning. A burnt relay may melt onto the fuse panel in addition to shutting off power to the ignition relay and impairing performance. This could make it challenging to remove and, in rare cases, may even need replacing the entire fuse box.
Although replacing the ignition relay is not typically seen as standard maintenance, it can occasionally fail and seriously harm the car. Have the car checked out by a qualified mechanic if you think the ignition relay may be malfunctioning.
Is there any value to service, especially the oil change portion, in an engine that is losing oil and being topped off with new oil in a failing car?
Second, if you say there isn’t, can I just change the oil filter at suggested intervals without getting the oil changed? Help me out, please. Nich
It depends on how much oil is being lost from the engine; is it leaking or smoking? Despite the fact that you mentioned smoking, if the smoking is due to a faulty valve stem seal, you can replace the seal by performing a complete valve train repair; alternatively, if the smoking is due to worn-out oil rings and cylinder walls, you can rebuild the engine.
If you use up to four litres of oil every week, you can replace the filter by itself.
What are your thoughts on choosing between SUVs and cars with V6 and V4 engines? I ask since most people say that buying a vehicle with a V4 engine saves money on petrol, whereas V6 autos utilize fuel. Onuoha
They are accurate, yes. Additionally, keep in mind that four cylinder engines are less expensive to maintain than V6 engines.
What might the issue be with the 2.4L engine in my Kia Sorento? The check engine light is not on, and the car will not rev over 3000 rpm. The following codes were discovered while scanning the vehicle: P0222, P0076, P0652, P2110, P2106, P0123, and P0453. Please provide advice. Anonymous
With all the codes you have, the check light should be on, thus someone must have blocked or removed it. The codes’ explanations are listed below. The three that are most important to your problems are P0222, P2106 and P2110. They ought to be useful to your professional in resolving the issue.
Engine control module on/off pulse duty (ratio) signals are used to turn on the solenoid valve that controls the timing of the intake valve.
the timing device for the intake valve Oil flow through the intake valve timing control unit can be changed or stopped by a solenoid valve.
Valve angle advances with increasing pulse width. Valve angle is delayed by the narrower pulse width. The solenoid valve stops oil pressure flow to set the intake valve angle at the control position when on and off pulse widths are equal.
Through the intake valve timing control solenoid valve, an incorrect voltage is transmitted to the engine control module.
- faulty solenoid bank controlling the intake valve 1
- intake valve management solenoids in a circuit 1 harness has a short or open end.