Changing the top of your strut’s mounting location and/or the way your steering knuckle mounts to the bottom of your strut are both necessary for camber adjustment. Adjustable control arms, camber plates, eccentric bolts, and camber bolts can all be used to do this.
What kind of car you drive and the modifications you’ve made to it will determine how much adjustability you receive. However, the type of suspension system your car has fitted is more crucial.
The majority of OEM suspension systems allow for only a little amount of camber adjustment via eccentric bolts, turn-buckle joints, or shims. Turn-buckle joints can be found on front wishbone suspensions as well as rear multi-link setups.
Camber plates and eccentric bolts are most frequently used in suspension systems with MacPherson strut and double wishbone designs. The degree of adaptability you can anticipate from these two parts is as follows:
- Allow two to three camber settings for camber plates.
- Allow up to 1.5 of adjustability using camber bolts.
You will need adjustable control arms for anything more than this because adjusting the length of your control arms provides you the maximum adjustability.
In This Article...
Camber Bolts
Although camber bolts are frequently encountered on production cars, they only offer a very limited amount of adjustability. These are functional thanks to an eccentric lobea bulge on the bolt and an offset washer that resembles a camshaft lobe.
The bulge changes the horizontal alignment of your steering knuckle or control arms when you turn the bolt, which alters the camber angle.
The majority of production cars are equipped with adjustable camber bolts. However, if you want a slightly greater range of adjustability, you may always use aftermarket bolts.
You’ll notice that a MacPherson strut suspension utilizes two mounting points if your automobile has one. For the greatest amount of camber gain, you can use aftermarket bolts in both spindle holes.
The best approach to change camber for double-wishbone suspensions is to swap out one of the OEM control arms for an adjustable one. You may alter camber by changing the length of your control arms, which in turn affects the angle of your steering knuckle.
On double-wishbone suspensions, however, the upper or lower control arms can be moved using camber bolts.
Finding the appropriate camber bolts for your car is the first step in using them. You can completely omit this step and start making the modifications straight away if your automobile already has them fitted from the factory.
The swap is quite simple, although fine-tuning the camber settings is a little challenging.
For MacPherson strut camber bolt replacement and adjustment, follow these steps:
- Install your preferred camber measuring device, level your wheel alignment rack, and lock the main brakes before positioning your vehicle.
- To separate the top and bottom bolts holding the strut and the knuckle together, climb underneath the car and use a breaking bar, impact pistol, and socket.
- With camber bolts, you may either swap out both the lower and upper OEM bolts, or just one.
- It’s crucial to read the installation instructions and position the washers appropriately while installing the new camber bolt. Every camber bolt requires a unique approach or position.
- Make sure the second bolt is adjusted-friendly loose. After installing your camber bolt, use a hand wrench to tighten it. It shouldn’t be too tight because it will make it difficult to correctly adjust the camber angle.
- Now comes the challenging part. Keep an eye on your inclinometer and slowly adjust the camber by turning the bolt, not the nut. When the angle is correct, hold the bolt in place and tighten the nut from the opposite side without allowing the angle to shift.
Camber Plates
Camber plates, which have a far larger range of adjustment than camber bolts, are frequently used in conjunction with suspensions that use MacPherson struts and coilovers.
Your fixed strut top mounts should be swapped out for adjustable ones. By doing so, you may control how much your coilovers tilt toward or away from the car.
So, there you have itone method for adjusting camber on coilovers. Even even more expensive options are sometimes sold with camber plates.
Your coilovers will contribute negative camber if you tilt them in the direction of your car, and positive camber if you tilt them outward. You must understand the distinction between positive and negative camber for this to make complete sense.
Adjustments are much simpler to make with camber plates than they are with camber bolts. An Allen wrench is all you require. Another benefit is that the hardware for adjustments is simple to reach.
Camber plates can be installed and adjusted as seen here:
- If your automobile is lowered, start by jacking it up; otherwise, use a low profile floor jack.
- All of the parts that keep the strut attached to the automobile must be loosened. These components include radius rods, sway bar links, knuckle mounts, and wheel hubs.
- To remove the strut assembly, unbolt the top mount.
- Utilizing spring compressors, separate the coil spring from the top mount while the strut is removed.
- The remaining steps are simple once the top mount has been removed. Simply attach the top nut after installing the camber plates.
- All suspension parts and the strut assembly should be reinstalled. Now is the time to change the camber.
- Install spin plates on a flat platform and mount your automobile there.
- The four camber plate bolts can be loosened with an allen wrench. Slide the bolts to the desired angle using the written index. Once the bolts are retightened, you’re done.
Be aware that different brands offer different functionality and features for camber adjustment items.
Adjustable Control Arms
The length of your control arms can be changed for the best camber adjustment. OEM suspension arms are frequently inflexible and unadjustable.
Adjustable control arms come in handy in this situation. The most efficient approach to change your camber angle is probably to modify your suspension system, which is compatible with many different types of suspension systems.
The conventional fixed-length arm is replaced by adjustable control arms that can be changed in length. Threaded collars and/or adjustable rose joints make this possible. On A-arms and other types of control arms, this feature operates somewhat differently, but the outcome is the same.
Adjustable Camber Bushings
On trucks and off-road vehicles in general, you’ll notice camber or alignment bushings rather frequently. Adjustable bushings have an offset shape that, like camber bolts, enables precise camber adjustments.
They work perfectly for honing your camber angle. It’s not really a main fix, more of a touch-up. We advise using adjustable control arms or camber plates for a more thorough adjustment.
How can a camber alignment be performed at home?
You’ll need these tools:
- Level
- Caliper (digital is best)
- Measurement tape
- smooth edge
- Calculator
First, determine the wheel diameter. This isn’t the same as the wheel size we usually talk about. The 18″ Forgestar wheels measure 19.5″ in diameter for me from top to bottom of the lip. Using the formula mm = (inch * 25.4), I converted this measurement to millimeters.
Step 2: Place the level’s bottom against the wheel or tire’s base. The level’s bubble must be centered to accurately measure the angle.
Cut a piece of wood to exactly the wheel’s diameter for the most precise measurement ” (19.5″ in my case). Estimate how much room to give for your tire sidewall at the bottom of the level and tape it to the level’s flat side. Only the wheel should come into contact with the freshly cut portion, not the tire edge. enabling you to take a measurement straight from the wheel’s bottom lip to top lip.
Remember that if you’re not going to use a straight edge to line up to the wheel precisely, you may need to add a few millimeters or so. Take note of how my tire protrudes further than the edge of the wheel lip.
Step 3: Measure the distance between the wheel/tire and the level using the caliper. Ensure that the level’s tiny bubble is perfectly in the center.
Unless you’re extending the tire, the sidewall of the tire will often protrude more than the wheel. Understanding this concept is crucial when measuring. Keep in mind that measuring from the tire edge rather than the wheel lip can affect your step one diameter measurement. Calculate this again if necessary. Then I measured the mm distance between the level and tire after repeating step 1 with an additional 4mm of tire in the diameter.
Step 4) Incorporate both measurements into the following formula: (mm between the wheel and the level / mm wheel diameter)
Your camber degree is indicated by that number. Remember that this will probably be negative camber.
For instance, tan-1(12.21/499) = 1.40 where 12.21mm = tire-to-level distance and 499mm = 19.5 “Angle of tire/wheel: wheel + 4mm tire, 1.40. I can just place a negative in front of the tan-1 if you want to, but I know my alignment has negative camber.
Here are a few extra recommendations for people who have adjustable camber plates. I measured my camber and adjusted the top plates before taking it in for an alignment using the manner described here. Since I knew the shop wouldn’t modify the front camber for me, I wanted to get the camber as near as I could.
Because the strut hole is too small to modify the camber while the vehicle is still on the ground, this takes extra time for Volvo P1s. The strut must be entirely removed in order to set the camber without the use of a hole saw, which would compromise the structural integrity.
Because most alignment businesses won’t do this for you or will charge you a lot of money for their time, this is why I wanted to write this up.
The top of the BC coil over camber plate is shown here. As you can see, there are 4 hex key bolts that may be adjusted to provide for the whole camber adjustment range of -3 to +3. To make the modification I need, I had to shift two of them to the center.
Each line on the Volvo P1’s BC coil over plates corresponds to 1/3* of camber adjustment. The depression on the black plastic surface should be aligned with the painted lines. To achieve greater adjustment, you might need to reposition the bolts.
Before removing the strut, be sure to measure your camber so you can determine how much to correct. When compared to the dimple on the plates, mine was set at -2.7*!
Is camber changed when aligning a vehicle?
You may be curious about what transpires during the wheel alignment service when you bring your car in for it.
A vehicle is placed on a rack for an alignment, and the wheels are rotated and adjusted to get the ideal alignment for your car, your driving style, and manufacturer recommendations.
The wheels’ camber, caster, and toe can be adjusted with the alignments. The amount that a tire tilts inward and outward from the vehicle is referred to as camber. The amount a tire is tilted forward or backward is known as caster. Toe is the amount of inward or outward tilt a tire has when viewed from above.
Resetting a vehicle’s steering angle sensor is another possibility during a wheel alignment.
A tire alignment is performed after replacing the lower control arms on a BMW 328’s wheels.
“The steering angle sensor measures the angle and rotational speed of the vehicle’s steering wheel. According to Rich Campbell, general manager of HomeTowne Auto Repair & Tire, the steering angle sensor is used in many modern automobiles to control steering pressure, braking, and acceleration.
The amount of effort that sensor must exert to maintain stability of your car will depend on the speed of your vehicle. In order to help with braking, minimize steering effort, and lessen acceleration for better driving control, you’ll want to make sure the sensor is in good functioning order if you’re on the highway travelling at a fast pace and the tire moves.
You might see a warning light glow on the dash if the steering angle sensor is not reset after an alignment; this will disable some safety systems, so you should have it looked out straight immediately.
Can a Tacoma’s four wheels be aligned?
Depending on whether all four wheels need an angle correction, our factory-trained specialists can complete an alignment on a Toyota Tacoma in anywhere from 25 minutes to an hour. In exceptional circumstances, it can take a little bit longer if your car needs any new parts to finish the adjustment.
How can you tell if camber is incorrect?
Tire lean is measured via camber. Many front-wheel-drive cars lack an adjustable camber, therefore an out-of-spec measurement on one of these cars usually means that a part is damaged or worn.
Make sure the car is parked on level ground before checking the camber. If not, take into account the ground slope while reading the camber. Then, use an angle finder to show camber by placing a straight edge across the wheel (use the inner lip if the outer is nicked or uneven).
How much does camber adjustment cost?
One pair of wheels is only checked during one alignment. Most mechanics will charge between $50 and $100 for this. Both sets of wheels are thoroughly aligned. Most mechanics will charge you between $150 and $200 for this.
This is not a set rule, though, like most auto repairs. For especially difficult autos or ones that need specialist tools, a mechanic may charge more.
Do you first tweak the toe or the camber?
Establishing the car’s ride height is the first step to a good alignment. For instance, once the new springs have settled after a recent front suspension adjustment, the ride height will vary. The springs may need to travel 50 to 100 miles before they achieve a constant ride height. Alternatively, if the vehicle has air suspension, you must choose the ride height for the bulk of the miles the vehicle will be driven. Camber, caster, and toe will all shift in response to changes in the ride height. If you really want to be precise, fill the automobile with the weight of the driver to achieve the ideal riding height.
Checking the camber setting comes after the ride height has been determined. The majority of bubble gauges come with a magnetic adapter that enables mounting on the brake hub. Due to the hubs on many aftermarket aluminum wheels, the use of the universal magnetic adapter may not be possible. The gauge will read out the camber in either negative or positive degrees once it has been mounted and leveled. The gauge, let’s say, indicates a 1/2 degree positive camber. 1/2 degree negative is an excellent starting point for a muscle car. Move the upper control arm inboard by about 1 degree to adjust the setting. Most automobiles that have an upper control arm are installed with a cross-shaft. The upper control arm is moved inboard on both studs and the required negative camber is produced by placing an equal amount of shims between the framerail and the cross-shaft on both mounting bolts. Offset shafts can be used in cases where additional movement is required in either direction.
The next angle to evaluate is caster after you’ve determined the camber. Turn the tire 20 degrees inboard while the bubble gauge is mounted on the hub, then level it. Zero the gauge’s caster reading by turning the center caster adjustment knob. The gauge will now display the amount of positive or negative caster as you turn the tire 20 degrees out. 2 to 3 degrees of positive caster is a good place to start for caster. Shims are either added or subtracted from the front attachment point for the upper control arm to produce positive caster. You should recheck it after altering the caster because this will definitely affect camber. Ford used a strut rod attached to the lower control arm on early Mustangs, for instance, that could be pushed in or out to change the caster. Positive caster is increased by shortening the rod (advancing the lower control arm) by advancing the bottom of the spindle.
The fact that the 20-degree turn-in and turn-out figure is not essential is an intriguing issue. The 20-degree figure is well-liked since the measurement is more precise the further the wheel moves. The tire must be rotated the same amount of degrees in and out.
The toe can be adjusted once the camber and caster have been set. This is where we made a mistake when we performed our first home alignment. We discovered that every time you change the toe (without turn plates), you had to move the car around 10 feet backward and then forward. For the most accurate results, this loads the front tires. Because changing camber or caster causes the control arms to move, which changes the toe, toe is always set last. To prevent the adjustment from altering, the majority of domestic cars use left- and right-hand threads, a threaded sleeve, and locking nuts. Our El Camino’s ride height had varied over time, measuring a tire-shredding 1/4 inch of toe-out, which we swiftly modified to 1/16 inch of toe-in. To attain the appropriate toe-in, it is advisable to move the left and right side adjusters by the same amount.
Take the automobile for a leisurely test drive after modifying all three settings, and pay attention to how it handles various driving surfaces and circumstances. Excessive positive caster or possible toe-out are the typical causes of an automobile pulling to one side. To rule out a bad tire as a potential culprit, try exchanging tires side to side if the car still pulls with accurate alignments. You’ll see how simple it is to complete your first alignment and that you’ve now ascended another rung of the gearhead master mechanic’s ladder once you’ve completed it.
Front-End Alignment SpecsSince this article isn’t focused on a particular car, we’ll give you a list of general alignment specifications that apply to the majority of 1960s street-driven cars. Additionally, we have given standard specifications for a dragster. Remember that to model how the automobile would run down the track, you should position a normal drag racer with the front end lifted by about an inch. On our Chevelle, a 2-inch front-end lift altered the camber by almost 2 degrees, which might also have an impact on the toe and result in tire scuff. We also have stock alignment specifications for a 1964 Chevelle that we can use as a guide. Set the front end to 1 degree negative caster and 3/4 degree positive camber if you wanted your car to understeer severely and be unstable at high speeds. Ugh!