(I’m working to restore the photos to this new website. If you have any questions in the interim, please contact me.
So, you bought one of our engines, huh? Good decision. Now you belong to the SELECT FEW.
You have probably heard a million different suggestions from a million different sources about how to do the initial start-up “engine breaking in. What we suggest for our engine is as follows:
RECOMMENDATION FOR OIL:
You received your engine with 4.5 quarts of high zinc break-in oil (but please, always check the oil level and adjust as needed before you start it on your side).
Jim broke in and tested your engine on the dyno, so it is advised that you drain the break-in oil and replace the filter (a factory Toyota filter, am I right?) after 300 miles.
We advise Castrol conventional 10w/30 or Valvoline. You may employ your “conventional oil of the typical brand; avoid the no-name, low-cost alternatives. Keep your investment safe.
You young people who live in harsh (cold or hot) climes are aware of what works best in your conditions; thus, base your choice of weights on your prior knowledge.
In This Article...
DO NOT USE ANY SYNTHETIC OR A SYNTHETIC BLEND AS A BREAK IN OIL!!!! EVER!!!!!!!
The use of synthetic oil is NEVER (EVER!!) advised during break-in, and we don’t even advise it after break-in. We only construct 22R/22RE engines, and for the duration of a 22R/22RE’s life, conventional mineral oil has always been advised. Just consider how long your last engine ran on normal dinosaur oil250350 thousand miles (and the guy that owned it before you NEVER kept a regular schedule). Simply use normal 10w/30 oil and a REGULAR oil change schedule that makes sense. We advise traveling 3,000 to 4,000 miles. The length of time you run it, the miles traveled, how frequently you drive it until the engine reaches the proper operating temperature, and the overall tuning of your engine are all considerations. This is when we have to let you take care of your engine on your own. Give it every chance to survive, PLEEEASE. You are a wise person; protect your investment.
Are 22RE engines reliable?
I owned three trucks with both the 22R and RE engines, and I never had an issue. They are without a doubt the most dependable engines Toyota has ever produced. They were all well over 200,000 kilometers old. My 92 had more than 350,000 miles on it before I sold it. The only change I made was to the back end by adding 4.56 gears.
What distinguishes 10W30 oil from 10W40 oil?
Multigrade oils, such as 10W-40 and 10W-30, combine the characteristics of two different classes of oil. They are sometimes referred to as “multi weight oils.”
Low Temperature Viscosity
The oil’s viscosity at a low temperature is indicated by the first number. Anything below 0oC is often regarded as low temperature (32oF).
A “10W rating” (thus the “W” affixed to it) is an SAE grade for winter use for both 10W-30 and 10W-40 oils. At lower temperatures, these oils behave similarly to an SAE 10W single grade oil.
When starting a car while the engine is still cold and needs quick lubrication, this value is especially crucial. The oil is thinner and more viscous the lower the number.
High Temperature Viscosity
The viscosity of the oil at 100 oC is indicated by the second digit (after the “W”) (212oF). This is frequently taken to be the operating temperature of the engine.
More viscous or thicker the oil is at higher temperatures, the higher the number.
Accordingly, 10W30 engine oil has the viscosity of an SAE 30 single grade oil at 100 oC, whereas 10W40 oil has the viscosity of an SAE 40 oil.
Because 10W40 oil has a higher viscosity than 10W30, it retains more thickness as the temperature increases.
In that situation, 10W-40 motor oil would theoretically offer superior defense against contact between engine wear and higher temperatures.
Next, let’s compare the performance and application of these multi-viscosity oils.
A 22RE has how many horsepower at the factory?
Toyota performance is in good hands with LC Engineering. The business has been operating for a while and has built, tested on a dyno, tuned, and produced some of the greatest Toyota performance parts available. We thought it was time to use the crew’s experience on our ‘Yota project as LCE specializes on the 20R, 22R, and 22RE engines. After upgrading to LCE’s robust dual-row timing-chain system, we went one step further and chose to purchase the EFI Power Package, which can boost our basic 22RE motor’s power by 2530 hp.
The set comprises the LCE Street Header Kit, the LCE Big Bore Throttle Body, the EFI Pro Camshaft, and a K&N Filter Charger. A collection of components called the EFI Power Package was created and tested to deliver the highest bolt-on power for a stock 22RE engine. We opted to postpone the header installation until we can rework the remainder of the exhaust system because we still have other modifications for Project Dragged Daily that would significantly impact the exhaust system, such as a body drop. Once we had the remaining items, we went to visit Guy “Cracky” Longley of Glendora Import Specialists. Guy is also the master of getting these motors to run well and has a 22RE in a beefed-up tiny Toyota.
Guy replaced our stock cam with LCE’s professional version, replaced our old throttle body with a big-bore body, and installed a K&N filter in lieu of our old (not to mention unsightly and huge) airbox in a matter of a few hours. It was time to put the changes to the test on the dyno after everything was installed and the engine had run for 30 minutes to break in the cam. An average 22RE engine produces 116 horsepower and 140 lb-ft of torque. See how well our motor performed by looking at the dyno spec box. Remember that we haven’t updated the exhaust system or added the header yet. Only the gains from the Pro Camshaft, the big-bore throttle body, and the K&N filter are shown in our calculations. We gained more than 20 horsepower by removing the header. Contact the businesses named in the source box for more details.