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LOCATE THE SERVICE FITTINGS
The service fittings on the A/C system must then be located. A LOW side fitting and a HIGH side fitting are both present. The suction pipe or line that connects the accumulator to the compressor often has a LOW side fitting on it. On the line leading from the compressor to the condenser is where you’ll find the HIGH side fitting.
The LOW and HIGH pressure service fittings on older R-12 systems are screw-type schrader valves. The LOW and HIGH side service fittings on R-134a systems are quick-connect style connections. The fitting for low pressure is SMALLER than the fitting for high pressure. Additionally, R-1234yf-equipped late-model vehicles have special service fittings that are not compatible with R-134a or R-12 systems.
AIR CONDITIONING RECHARGE PROCEDURE
1. Check to see if you have the right refrigerant for your car. Use R-1234yf in only more recent R-1234yf systems; only use R-134a in R-134a systems. DO NOT combine several refrigerant types. Okay, you may now attach a can of refrigerant to the recharge service hose and valve.
2. To pierce the can’s top, turn the service hose’s valve.
3. RETURNING THE VALVE SLOWLY OUT will allow a tiny amount of refrigerant to flow into the hose. You don’t want air blowing out of the hose into your A/C system, therefore doing this will prevent that.
4. Quickly attach the other end of the service hose to the LOW pressure service fitting on the air conditioning system after closing the valve to prevent further refrigerant leakage. WARNING: A can of refrigerant MUST NOT BE CONNECTED TO THE HIGH SIDE SERVICE FITTING. The can may explode if the operating pressure within the running A/C system is greater than the can’s burst strength! Since the service hose for recharging the A/C system can only fit the smaller LOW pressure service fitting, this should be impossible to accomplish. You should be aware of the risk nonetheless.
5. Hold the can upright to prevent any liquid refrigerant from entering the service hose. Only VAPOR should be drawn into the air conditioning system; otherwise, the compressor may sustain damage.
6. OPTIONAL BUT HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: You ought to keep an eye on the recharging procedure by using a gauge. A gauge is not required, but it will help you recharge your air conditioning system more correctly and lower the possibility of undercharging or overcharging (either of which will reduce cooling performance).
You can attach a high pressure air conditioner gauge to the HIGH pressure service fitting, a low pressure air conditioner gauge to the LOW pressure service fitting, or gauges to both fittings (that is what professional technicians do).
NOTE: A low pressure gauge may be included in some DIY recharge kits on the service hose or on a can dispenser with a trigger-grip design. For various types of refrigerants, the gauge may have distinct color-coded zones. Make sure the pressure range you are looking at is appropriate for the type of refrigerant you are using.
8. IMPORTANT: If the system’s refrigerant level is too low, the compressor might not turn on. If the system’s refrigerant level drops too low, the low pressure cutout switch will stop the compressor from operating (this is done to protect the compressor from damage due to a lack of proper lubrication). To draw refrigerant into the system through the service pipe, the compressor must be functioning. Therefore, you might need to utilize a fused jumper wire to directly give battery energy to the compressor clutch if it isn’t engaging when the A/C is turned on. To connect a jumper wire to the battery POSITIVE terminal, locate a single wire connector close to the front of the compressor, disconnect it, and locate the connector. The clutch should engage as a result, and the compressor should start up.
9. OPEN the service hose valve to allow vaporized refrigerant to flow from the container into the air conditioning system. Per can, it could take up to 10 minutes or longer for the refrigerant to be completely sucked into the A/C system. When it’s hot outside, recharging will go more fast than when it’s cold outside. Feel the air escaping the vehicle’s air conditioning ducts. It ought to be becoming chilly.
10. Check the gauge if you are monitoring recharge using a high or low pressure gauge (or both) (s).
When the pressure gauge reads between 25 and 40 psi while the air conditioner is running, STOP. The system should be cooling properly because it is fully charged. NONE MORE REFRIGERANT SHOULD BE ADDED. You have overloaded the system with too much refrigerant if the gauge reads more than 50 psi. Make sure you are operating within the proper range for the refrigerant type you are using if your gauge has distinct color-coded zones for R-12, R-134a, and/or R-1234yf.
High pressure gauge: Stop when the reading reaches 225 to 250 psi (R-134a) or 200 to 225 psi (R-12). The system should be cooling properly because it is fully charged. NONE MORE REFRIGERANT SHOULD BE ADDED.
NOTE: The system and outside temperatures will affect the high and low pressure measurements (higher temperatures cause higher system pressure readings).
For information on typical system operating pressures and the system’s total refrigerant capacity, consult the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications. Because the majority of current passenger car A/C systems only contain 14 to 28 oz. of refrigerant, you don’t want to add too much if the system is low. R-134a cans typically contain 12 oz. of refrigerant.
11. After adding one can, you can add a second can if the system still need extra refrigerant. Disconnect the service hose from the empty can, screw a new can onto the valve, crank the valve to puncture the new can, then turn the valve all the way back out so that refrigerant can flow through the hose and into the A/C system.
Turn off the engine once you’re done. Before removing the service hose from the low-pressure fitting, CLOSE the valve on the refrigerant can (in case there is any refrigerant left in the can). No residual refrigerant from the can should be vented. You can conserve the refrigerant for a later recharge if you leave the service hose connected to the container and the valve closed.
If you had to jump the compressor to get it to run, don’t forget to remove the jumper wire before replacing the plastic caps over the service fittings.
After numerous days, weeks, or months of being recharged, your air conditioner stops blowing cold air, which indicates that there is a leak in the system and that refrigerant is leaking out. To discover the leak, you should inject the system with some leak detection dye. The system should then be repaired for the leak before being recharged once more; otherwise, you are wasting time charging the system repeatedly.
New Restrictions for Selling R-134a Start January 2018
R-134a and other replacement refrigerants sold after January 1, 2018, will be subject to new regulations for businesses selling or distributing refrigerants for use in automobiles. The rule specifies certification standards for purchasing big containers of refrigerant and requires self-sealing valves to be included in small containers.
Anyone buying an R-12 replacement refrigerant in a container weighing more than two pounds is now required to provide the vendor proof that the technician has a Section 609 Technician Certification. The supplier must be shown proof that at least one technician at the facility is certified if the buyer is not certified and is purchasing the refrigerant on behalf of a service facility.
Wholesalers of refrigerants are required to keep an invoice including the buyer’s name, the transaction date, and the amount purchased. EPA advises distributors to get a statement attesting that the cylinders will be delivered to certified technicians even though they are not obligated to check any technician certifications.
Small cans of R-134a (less than two pounds) can be purchased by anyone, regardless of their level of certification. To prevent refrigerant from escaping after being withdrawn from the charging valves, self-sealing valves are required on all cans manufactured after January 1. Retailers are still allowed to sell off their current stock of tiny cans without the self-sealing valves as long as they were bought before December 31, 2017, despite this new restriction.
Is It Legal to Vent Old Refrigerant from your A/C system into the air when making repairs to your vehicle?
When a vehicle was being serviced, it was ILLEGAL under previous EPA regulations for anybody (professional or do-it-yourself) to purposefully vent refrigerant from an A/C system into the air. Refrigerant recovery equipment is necessary in professional repair shops. To remove any remaining refrigerant from the system and prevent vapors from escaping into the atmosphere when the A/C system is opened to replace a part, the machine must be connected to a vehicle PRIOR to doing repairs. The rationale behind this action is to stop the release of ozone-depleting CFC chemicals into the atmosphere that are present in older refrigerants like R-12. It makes sense and is the right course of action. However, R-134a, which does not contain any CFCs and does not pose a hazard to ozone layers, was also subject to EPA regulations. However, as R-134a is a greenhouse gas and so contributes to climate change, it is equally necessary that it be recovered rather than emitted. The rationale behind the EPA regulations’ requirement for R-1234yf recovery is unclear because this gas neither depletes the ozone layer nor contributes to global warming.
The question of whether or not it is appropriate to vent refrigerant when repairing an air conditioning system is irrelevant because it is obvious that a DIYer lacks access to a refrigerant recovery device. People simply carry it out. Additionally, there won’t be anything left to vent if your air conditioner has a leak because it’s likely that most or all of the refrigerant has already gone out.
The EPA recently released a new rule amending its earlier regulations, which forbade venting any refrigerant into the air when servicing a car, regardless of whether it contained CFCs or greenhouse gases. R-12 should still be recovered rather than vented, although it now appears that R-134a and R1234yf can be vented during service procedures. There is no recovery needed.
Due to the absence of CFCs that deplete the ozone layer, R-134a and R-1234yf are exempt from the new regulation’s leak inspection and repair requirements.
The EPA also published a proposed regulation that would accept three technical standards for R-1234yf A/C recovery and recycling equipment created by SAE International. The following updated SAE standards would have to be met by this equipment under the new regulation:
J2843 Mobile Air-Conditioning System Flammable Refrigerant Recovery, Recycling, and Recharging Equipment
contaminated R-134a or R-1234yf refrigerant from mobile air conditioning systems, according to J2851 recovery equipment;
Equipment for recovering, recycling, and recharging automotive refrigerant J3030 intended for both R-134a and R-1234yf usage.
How much freon is required for my truck?
The average automobile can contain between 28 and 32 ounces of refrigerant, or roughly 23 12 ounce cans, although larger vehicles and those with rear air conditioning will probably be able to hold more. The system capacity for your particular vehicle can be found in your car manual.
Admin
- 10 August 2018
- 1:27 am
Have you ever questioned the mechanism behind how cold air is produced by your air conditioner? That is the magic of the refrigerants, you are correct! How much refrigerant does your unit require to adequately chill your house? It may be really challenging. Since the majority of homeowners lack in-depth knowledge in this area, we offer some information to help you find the solution to your problem.
The usual rule that is applied when estimating the amount of refrigerant in a household air conditioner is in the range of 2-4 pounds per ton of cooling. Recharging a 3-ton air conditioner with a 35-foot line set from empty level, for instance, would require 6 to 12 pounds of refrigerants. However, other factors may affect this basic guideline. Look at these elements that affect how much refrigerant is included in your cooling system:
- AC Size The quantity of refrigerant required to produce cool air is substantially influenced by the size of your air conditioning machine. Naturally, the larger unit necessitates a longer liquid line on the line set, necessitating a larger capacity.
- Copper line set’s length and size. More refrigerant is required the farther apart the evaporator and condenser coils are from one another. The proper amount of refrigerant, in accordance with the distance between these two essential components, is pre-installed in air conditioning units at the factory.
- Evaporator coil size. For more effective cooling, many homeowners would like larger evaporator coils. This, however, also implies that your unit requires more refrigerant within.
- Systems type. Comparing split systems to packaged units, more refrigerant may be required. Since this sort of A/C has both indoor and outdoor components, several factors, including the line set and coils, need to be taken into account. A skilled installer can decide on each of them.
What kind of freon is used by Toyota?
Simple auto repairs, like charging the air conditioner in your Toyota Corolla, can save you money, give you a greater understanding of how your car operates, and, most significantly, are simple.
Although adding freon to a Toyota Corolla is a fairly simple process, you’ll need to add R-134a instead because freon has been phased out due to environmental concerns. To refuel the air conditioning in your car, you should:
- Locate the low-side pressurized service port on the aluminum pipe leaving the condenser by opening the hood.
- Coupler for the recharge kit should be installed onto the service port without turning the valve.
- Roll all of the windows down, turn on the air conditioning, and start the engine.
- Allow the air conditioning to go as cold as it can while allowing the engine to warm up to its normal operating temperature.
- Turn the recharging canister’s valve while keeping an eye on the pressure gauge.
- Once you’ve reached the recommended pressure shown on the gauge, usually between 25 and 40 psi, close the valve and leave the canister connected for one minute.
- Keep an eye on the gauge and add refrigerant as necessary, pausing a minute in between additions.
- After removing the coupler, give the air conditioner around ten minutes to operate.
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