You should always bleed the cooling system after draining it or opening it somewhere other than the expansion tank. By bleeding the system, you can make sure there are no air pockets and the coolant can function as it should. It’s an electric pump, thus the bleeding procedure requires a powerful battery. We finished the procedure without a battery charger, despite the BMW repair manual’s recommendation.
The self-bleeding technique should be started by:
The bleeding can then be started by depressing the accelerator pedal for roughly 10 seconds. When you hear the coolant within the engine and radiator moving, you’ll know the procedure has started. Once it has begun, let the car alone for 8 to 10 minutes. After that, the procedure will be finished, and your cooling system will be totally bled and ready for use.
Authored by:
owner of a 1973 Porsche 914 and a 1998 Impreza 2.5RS with a flat-six engine swap. only when opposing perspectives are horizontal.
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How to bleed a water pump that is mechanical (older BMWs)
Tools Required:
- Jack (depending on model)
- Jack postures (depending on model)
- the screwdriver
- Auto Key
How can you tell if your water pump is mechanical? A mechanical water pump is almost probably present in a BMW that was built before 2004. With the E90 in 2004, BMW started adding electric water pumps on the 3 Series. The E46, E36, and E30 are belt-driven mechanical water pumps, as are all prior 3 Series models.
These older BMW models require manual bleeding. Even while it’s a fairly quick and simple process, it does require more patience and time than versions of electric water pumps that “self-bleed.” These automobiles have mechanical water pumps, thermostats, and reservoirs positioned on the radiator’s side.
**To lift the front end of these vehicles, I utilize a jack, jack stands, or ramps. Why? Because the bleed screw and radiator are now the highest points on the coolant system, this will let the air move more easily. The majority of people don’t do it, but in my experience, it’s the best approach to guarantee that all air bubbles are eliminated from the cooling system.
**This bleed method will still function flawlessly if your heater is broken. I’ve done this procedure a lot of times when someone’s a/c control module has failed. Simply omit the step requiring you to turn on the heat.
- Put the front end on ramps or jack it up. (This step is advised but not necessary.)
- Open the bleed screw, then add coolant until it reaches the fill line. Take off the fill cap.
- Set the fan speed and the heat to their highest settings.
- The engine should be started and given time to reach working temperature. Release air when it heats up by loosening the bleed screw, then tighten it again.
- Reinstall the fill cap and tighten it firmly. Press the gas pedal to increase the engine’s rotational speed to 2000–2500 RPMs. If your heat works, it should be pumping hot air at this stage at full force. You can see from this that the heater core is dripping with coolant.
- After tightening the bleed screw, setting the car down and giving it a short spin, you’re done!
What occurs if BMW fails to bleed the coolant?
My 2014 335i gt’s radiator vent line broke, leaking some coolant, therefore I had to follow the instructions for bleeding the system after adding the coolant back in.
If anyone knows why they don’t just instruct you to put the engine on and drive about to let the air out, please let me know.
I have some ideas, but I’m curious if someone here who is “in the know” could clarify this.
You can’t fully fill the system with coolant if the air hasn’t been bled out. The hoses will contain air entrapment areas. If the engine and transmission are operated, they may overheat and destroy a variety of parts, beginning with the water pump and becoming worse from there.
No, the purpose is to remove air from the system. Since the system is sealed, any trapped air will remain there unless it is purged. For this reason, the coolant must also be injected under pressure into the circuit. This Oldsmobile is not your father’s.
Oh, I understood what bleeding was and why it was necessary. I apologize if I was unclear.
My concern related to how BMW decided to handle it. My friend and I are discussing how you bleed the system on a BMW as opposed to another kind of automobile. He believes that BMW’s process is overly complex. Procedures like these don’t exist simply because they do, thus I believe there is a strong rationale for it.
So here’s my inquiry: what design issue was BMW attempting to address by developing a method for bleeding the coolant circuit while the engine is not running?
I don’t necessarily see a design issue. If you wait for the engine to reach operating temperature before the cooling system can purge trapped air, damage may occur before the air exits the system since coolant doesn’t circulate through the system completely until then. That cannot occur if the air is purged without starting the engine.
He is referring to a thermostat; once the coolant reaches the desired temperature, the thermostat opens, and the coolant circulates throughout the entire system.
Don’t forget to fully activate your heater so that the water can also pass through the heater core.
No car, not even an Oldsmobile or a Honda, can be bled by just driving it around; instead, a bleeder screw is located at the highest point of the cooling system, or the overflow/radiator cap is used.
Do you have to bleed before adding coolant each time?
Your vehicle’s cooling system needs to be bled of air. Hot areas or air pockets can be hazardous. In addition to the heater producing little or no heat, it might also result in:
- heating of the engine
- Open the engine.
- enclose the engine
- Boost emissions
Hot spots in the system are typically caused by replacing a system component, changing the coolant, or maintaining the cooling system in your car. On some car models, air may occasionally enter the system through the coolant reservoir.
This is especially true for newer car designs where the radiator is positioned lower than the engine.
A hot spot is nothing more than trapped pockets of air or bubbles within the cooling system tubes that prohibit coolant from removing heat from those regions, overheating the engine and triggering the onset of corrosion.
Depending on whether your system has bleeding screws or not, there are three alternative ways to bleed the air out of the cooling system.
If you’re unsure whether your system includes bleeding screws, check your car’s owner’s manual or the service manual for your vehicle. You can get a repair handbook online or at any number of auto parts retailers for your specific vehicle’s make and model. Nevertheless, your neighborhood public library’s reference section might have a copy of the manual.
Please continue reading. You might be able to choose the approach to employ in your specific car with the help of the information supplied below.
Use only the antifreeze that the automaker has advised. Consult the owner’s manual or repair manual for your car. And use only distilled water to combine it.
Which coolant is OK for my BMW?
For BMW vehicles, the ZEREX G-48 coolant is perfect. The coolant, which is made for both diesel and gasoline engines, contains low-silicate, pH, anti-phosphate technology that guards against corrosion in all metals, including aluminum.
It is diluted at a 1:1 ratio to protect the modern engine’s components from freezing in the winter and boiling over in the summer. Additionally, the combination is prepared in 5:7 ratios for maximum protection. It also includes a high-quality defoamer system and contains less silicon than the vehicle’s mandated 250 parts per million.
Does BMW require a particular coolant?
Antifreeze and coolant Any generic antifreeze won’t work since BMWs have unique coolant specifications (nitrite and phosphate free) to prevent build-up and corrosion of metal components.
When should I replace the coolant in my BMW?
How frequently should a BMW have its coolant changed? Typically, every 30,000 miles or every two years, you should have a BMW coolant cleanse conducted. Your car may be able to go longer between flushes in specific circumstances.
The amount of coolant used by a BMW x5
Your cooling system has to be drained and refilled as part of routine maintenance and various repairs. The engines of BMW E53 manual transmission models contain 8.7 liters of coolant, whereas those in automatic transmission versions carry roughly 8.5 liters.
Will the cooling system self-bleed?
Depending on the model and approach you use, it typically takes 15 to 30 minutes. However, heating the engine and draining the coolant both take about 15-20 minutes.
Between the overflow tank and thermostat, your cooling system can leak a little. However, you must fill the coolant and drive the vehicle with the radiator cover off in order to fully bleed.
The water needs to be turned on and adjusted to run slowly. To remove the radiator from the cooling system, turn off your car.
Can BMW use Prestone coolant?
Yes. OAT coolant/antifreeze Prestone also has anti-corrosion components to safeguard your cooling system. It works well in all vehicles, provides the same levels of security, and causes no harm.
Why is blue coolant used by BMW?
To maintain your cooling system operating at its peak, use only German OEM engine antifreeze, component number 82141467704. (82 14 1 467 704). Because they don’t include nitrites, amines, phosphates, or borates, BMW exclusively suggests specific coolants. BMW cooling systems typically do not work with off-the-shelf coolant from a neighborhood parts store, and mixing various coolant formulas is not advised (in a pinch you should use distilled water).
The well-known blue coolant, which has been in use since the 1990s, is only permitted for vehicles with model years up to 2018. Internally, it is referred to as the G48 formula and is exclusive to BMW/MINI vehicles. In comparison to other forms of coolant, the blue coolant formula is a hybrid that extends coolant service life and is less harmful to the environment. On vehicles manufactured in 2018 and later, BMW replaced it with a new formulation that contains silicate and offers superior immediate corrosion protection. BMW does not advise using the older blue formula for vehicles created after January 2018.
For increased corrosion resistance, anti-freeze defense, and water pump lubrication in street cars, we advise combining distilled water in a 1:1 ratio with the mixture. Reduce the amount of antifreeze in your coolant mixture if you want more cooling properties, but only in warmer climates where freezing is impossible (see chart below). We advise monitoring the freezing point of the coolant mixture if you want to use antifreeze and water ratios other than 1:1.
Red Line Water Wetter can also be added if high temperatures could lead to engine banging or pre-ignition.
- BMW # 82141467704, genuine German OEM antifreeze
- optimum cooling, freeze prevention, lubrication of the water pump, and corrosion resistance
Which coolant does the BMW f30 employ?
In your cooling system, BMW’s blue G11 coolant is intended to encourage heat transfer and prevent corrosion. Nitrate and phosphate are not present in genuine BMW coolant. Be aware that before putting BMW coolant to the car, it must be diluted with distilled water to a 50:50 combination.
Why does BMW have two tanks for coolant?
Low refers to the charge air (water cooled intercooler) system, whereas High refers to the engine cooling system. Your engine’s coolant system has to be topped out. The center-mounted one marked “low” is not equipped with a sensor to alert you when it is low.