Depending on the type of car and how it is driven, an approximate range is between 10k and 130000. I recall seeing a man with more over 200k miles who was still using the original clutch. Depending on how the vehicle has been driven Depending on the type of car and how it is driven, an approximate range is between 10k and 130000.
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sdbrandon
1. Your residence (i.e. San Francisco steep hills with a lot of parallel parking on inclines.)
2. How well you can operate a manual vehicle.
If you are a skilled driver, your clutch will often endure for more than 100k kilometers. 200-300k miles are quite typical. 30k or less if you’re bad at it or treat it badly.
The good thing is that replacing a clutch is not too expensive. I wouldn’t worry about having a warranty for that.
How much time does a standard clutch last?
I’m not sure if my car’s clutch has been replaced, but it has 240000 miles on it and feels great. and when a replacement is needed. What do you all suggest. an appropriate one for regular driving. because it’s not a racecar.
We have a 323is in the family that we’ve known to have somewhere between 60 and 175 thousand miles on it, and we’re assuming it still has the original clutch in it. It runs smoothly. When I sold my 328is this summer, the original clutch still had 135k miles on it. Since then, the current owner has likely driven it 6k miles, and it is still in good condition.
When the time comes, I’d replace the clutch with a stock Sachs. On a stock car that is used for daily driving, there is no incentive to tinker with it.
I’ve had mine between 155 and 220 pounds, and I’ve had no problems.
It might be original, I got this strange sensation. It feels slightly different from when I bought it, but it is not slipping.
For as long as you wish. It will last a long time if you take care of it; mine has 200k on it. If you misuse it, you might only get a few thousand dollars.
At 120,000 miles, I had to replace mine. The throwout bearing died rather than the clutch being defective. Since 1970, I’ve driven a ton of cars with clutches, and the throwout bearing failing is much more frequent than the clutch failing.
Sadly, there is no simple method to check the clutch to see how much more life it has. In all honesty, I don’t think it’s original. Most likely, you are the third, fourth, or even fifth owner. There is a significant chance that not all of them were simple to use in a clutch.
This is one of those things where “your mileage may vary.” Clutches have been known to last over 80k miles. It truly depends on how you drive, especially while changing down and from a stop.
The life of it is impacted by numerous variables. I could definitely drive on one for the next ten years or roast one until it physically falls apart without moving a muscle in a matter of minutes.
However, in reality, it will typically last 100k miles with a decent driver, even with occasional forceful launches and traffic.
I’m just curious to hear from anyone about how long their original clutch has lasted on a 335i 6MT (also – please state if tuned or not).
At 59k, my clutch seems to be in good shape. I have another 18 months of coverage left on that item (maintenance plan). Actually, I’m hoping it ends sooner. Otherwise, I might not receive value for my money from the maintenance package. Actually, if it hadn’t protected the clutch disc, I would have said no.
In my 2007 e90 6MT, the clutch disengaged after about 50k miles. I don’t misuse mine, which was brand new at the time. When we disassembled the transmission to repair it, we discovered pieces of the broken friction material laying at the bottom of the casing. Regardless of whether the clutch failed, the friction material was also dangerously near to being completely exhausted. Oh, and the clutch drove perfectly and held power without any issues until it broke, so you can’t really tell that it’s wearing down unless you literally grind through all of the friction material. Best of luck!
I have roughly 75000 miles on the stock clutch right now. (With an aftermarket intake, intercooler, and charge pipe, operating at 18 PSI tapering to 14 PSI)
Recently, when accelerating in first gear while the car is still cold, I’ve noticed a chattering sensation in the pedal. Everything else is alright. That’s one of the initial signs of a failing clutch or possibly a failing DMFW, I’ve been told. Any gear’s clutch holds up well when under power.
I appreciate the advice, gentlemen. We’re hoping for more responses so we can get a relevant median mileage for clutch wear-out.
With the original clutch, my E39 528i made it to 144k miles, although that engine only produced 207 lb-ft of torque. I would anticipate the clutch to last around half to two thirds as long with the torque of the N54.
The original clutch on my 14-year-old E36 held up for 200K+ miles as well. The majority of the miles on it were city miles because I resided in DC (inside the city lines).
In my opinion, there are only three reasons why your clutches might die too soon:
- shoddy manufacturing practices/materials used to make the clutch
- The way that it’s been maintained/operated
- Aliens
Best wishes and good luck; I hope the fix doesn’t cost too much. Once you’ve had the issue repaired, I’d be interested to hear what you discover. I also own a 6MT.
These clutches, like those in the majority of earlier BMWs, ought to last a very long time. My 2011 e90 has 110k miles on it and shows no symptoms of clutch problems. My previous e46 daily driver’s original clutch had logged more than 300k miles. With 178k miles on it, my 2005 M3 still uses the original clutch.
I have a fully loaded 2007 e90. It had 42k miles when I purchased it in 2010, and I’ve since added another 50k. It still feels just as powerful as the first day I acquired it. I use a blend of local and major roads on my everyday commute.
Like you, I was hoped the extended warranty program would cover replacing that clutch. No luck at all!
No one responded when this question was posted in the G80/G82 forum. I’m hoping for greater luck here.
new participant here. placed a 2022 manual G80 M3 order. first-time owner of a BMW. Most of my life, I’ve driven a manual car. My previous manual vehicle was an Audi S4, whose clutch was infamous for having a short lifespan. Fortunately, I never needed to replace mine, however I noticed that many people (perhaps terrible drivers?) had them replaced at roughly 35–40k miles.
The dealer assured me that the clutches on M vehicles are indestructible. I always take information from the dealer with a grain of salt. I’m curious how the M3s (F80s) and other generations of BMWs perform with their stock clutches.
There isn’t a bulletproof clutch. The life will be severely reduced if the clutch is entirely misused, possibly by 40–50k miles. I’m convinced the clutch can survive longer than 75k if you take care of it.
Since it’s impossible to take everything into account, I’m pulling all the statistics above out of my ass, but I believe they’re conservative.
On this platform, the OEM clutch is a fantastic setup. The factory clutch works superbly even on tuned or modified configurations. If you’re an experienced driver, you can easily count on the clutch to last for more than 50k miles.
Since the platform has been in use for so long, businesses like Clutch Masters have introduced fantastic upgrade components to provide options that are superior to OEM.
A good driver with few mods and few launches should easily surpass 50k, possibly even double that. Modifications to the power seem to have no impact on this.
I have never before started a manual automobile. Never felt the need. Always, I participated in roll races. Although it’s a matter of opinion, I believe I can operate a stick shift reasonably well. I always check to see whether my passengers’ heads are bobbing while we are driving, which they typically aren’t (I know it’s not a scientific procedure, but it gives me a rough sense). I tend to drive idly most of the time. spirited driving is possible when the roads are clear.
With over 100,000 miles on each of my previous three manual automobiles, I never had to repair the clutch. I’m hoping to go over 100k on the M3 as well.
One thing to remember is that an awd vehicle will also wear out a clutch more quickly. Less drivetrain slip results in increased component wear (just on principle). Therefore, the RWD design of M vehicles helps to keep the clutch in place.
Quote:
I shall exercise my right to put up with the disadvantage and humiliation of slower shifting and reaction times as long as 3-pedals are an option.
sailor
It’s encouraging to know that I could still get some nice miles out of my bike before having to sell a kidney to pay for a new clutch.
It is not a pricey job in parts if you do it yourself. You will pay between $250 and $500 USD depending on how other connected parts wear out. Some components, such as the clutch plate itself, can be purchased from non-BMW vendors for 60% off the suggested retail price.
The labor-intensive nature of the work is what drives up the cost when completed by a dealer. I completed the task on my own; the first time, I proceeded extremely slowly, and it took me 35 hours split over a few weekends. Most dealers appear to predict between 12 and 18 hours on average. Of course, a competent licensed BMW mechanic has probably already completed the task and has access to unique BMW tools that I did not have; but, you may get by without these tools for a very low price.
How frequently should a BMW clutch be changed?
When the clutch starts to slip, you replace it. or when the clutch pedal is completely released before it engages. A clutch should typically last for 100K or more.
On a BMW, how long does it take to change the clutch?
Typically, it might take anywhere from two to six hours to change a clutch. If you schedule the job, we advise setting aside a whole day just in case.
Do BMW clutches work well?
Heat is the enemy of all clutches. The specified clutch material will fail totally or slip under excessive heat. However, from where does that heat come? misuse and heavy usage. The factory-installed BMW clutches are quite excellent (realize that a F82 M4 with 405ft-lbs uses an organic clutch). They essentially cover up driving error and bad technique because they are so good. The X factor is now the driver. Driver abuses the clutch, which leads to excessive heat, clutch wear, and even component failure. Performance clutches lack this “safety net” margin of error, which makes poor driving habits and technique more obvious.
Keep in mind that the driveline’s weakest link is the clutch. The failure point may shift if the clutch is upgraded (transmissions are pricey!). The clutch ought to die so that something else won’t have to. Is your street car’s multi-plate ceramic clutch worth the cost?
How can you tell when your clutch is failing?
“Pedal feel” The way the pedal feels is a surefire indicator of clutch problems. The clutch may be having problems if you experience any severe vibration, a sticky, loose, or spongy feeling in the pedal, or if the pedal touches the floor of the car.